Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Neal's Journal for World Cup South Africa 2010


Wed Jun 9
Departed apartment after running last minute errand to pick up ear plugs, and check with the bank about pin code for bank card at about 12:40, expecting the MTC bus to arrive at 12:50. Bus arrived a few minutes late, but was able to still make connection for 1:05 LRT from MOA to meet up with AJ.
AJ arrived and we packed the extra Total Jackassery and USA scarves in with the soccer balls that we're bringing to pass back to the kids. In total, I collected 26 balls ranging from many of the Edina Soccer Club's size 3's, several from Nick Weatherall and his Hopkin's youth club, to four brand new balls donated by Dick Benham at General Sports in Minneapolis.
Met Steve King at the MSP Leine Lodge for a pre-flight beer.
Flight departs on time.

Thur Jun 10
Arrive Paris at 7:30 AM, met with overcast skys and light drizzle.
RER train into the center of Paris, found a coffee shop for an Americano and AJ's Capuccino. Back out to wander the Saint Michel/Notre Dame district in search of Wi-Fi. Back and forth across the Seine we wander about and hear the sound of Rooster. Sure enough we encounter a shop full of birds and then turn the corner on the north bank to find a street full of animal stores, dogs, cats, birds ... then a block of florists, a tiny oasis among the bustle in the city of Paris.
A vendor is passing out flyers for free food samples under the bridge up river, so AJ and I head over for a small snack cooked up on pedi-vendors. Meat on a stick and a small wrap like a taco, is nice as we await the arrival of Sasha at the RER stop on the south bank.
We stake out two RER exits to await the arrival of Sasha at 12:30, and he arrives right on time. Time to find a sidewalk cafe for lunch, and we settle for one near the fountain in the square. Onion soup and frittes for me, and Sandwich Madame for the other two. AJ and Sasha have 100cl special beers which have a very sweet citrus flavor, I opt for 50cl.
We are running out of time for our extremely short visit to Paris as the skys clear, so we head back up the RER line to see the Eiffel Tower briefly. Impressive structure, and security abound. We're able to walk under the structure and out toward a stage and lawn area to get a better view. Quick snapshots, then we need to dash back to the RER station in order to get to the Charles de Gaulle airport for our departure to Amsterdam, then Nairobi and finally on to Johannesburg (beginning to wonder if more direct flights would have been a better idea).
Return via RER finds us on the wrong train heading toward Charles de Gaulle airport, so we get off in Saint Denis at the Stade de France stop to await the other train. Several express trains blast thru the station as our logistical window begins to close, when finally an airport train arrives, we board and are back on our way. Sasha's got a little more time and is on another flight, so AJ and I head out to our departure gate several concourses away.
We find out flight to Amsterdam has been delayed, and worry about making the connection, but after a brief conversation with the gate attendant, it turns out OK. Quick hop to AMS, and we're soon off for overnight flight to Nairobi.

Fri Jun 11
NaIrobi airport is a throwback and is quite small and full of duty free crafts. One more leg and we land in JNB just before noon. AJ and I walk the entire concourse and back before stopping at the coffee shop to get our corpuscles chasing eachother.
Clearing passport control at O.R. Tambo airport in Johannesburg is a breeze, and there are no customs inspections as we exit into the arrivals rotunda to be greeted with the sound of dozens of vuvuzelas (annoying at first, but the sound will become a constant companion in the run up to games across the country). Upstairs to collect the tickets from the ATM like machines is also a breeze, now to rendevoux with Anthony. Purchase an hour of internet to check and see if Anthony is here, and send emails to coordinate. Wander into rotunda and seconds later Anthony is there with is Dad and their TV production facilitator (Anthony's father, de Sam Lazero, works for PBS and is in the country to work on a documentary regarding the economic development of South Africa) .
Lunch at the airport at Mugg & Bean's is slightly uninspiring version of a local ??. Really didn't need to eat, but we've got some driving ahead of us to get to our lodging in Magaliesburg to the north and west of JNB. Off to the car rental, then out onto the Johannesburg roads, with AJ piloting the right hand Renault. A couple of missed turns and we're way off course to Pretoria. A stop at petrol station for map and logistication. We end up driving the norther route, then in the backside to the Balula lodge well after dark. Greeted with smiling faces as our hosts were glad to see our arrival. Nice BBQ set up with sausages, steaks, chicken kabobs, mashed potato and porridge.
Am Hang is at the base of the Maliagesburg range, we arrive late and crash hard. Big day tomorrow: England vs USA.

Sat Jun 12
First batch of Neal's pretty good coffee with Sumatran grounds with Sasha on the porch overlooking the Maliagsburg valley. Walter brings us our breakfast makings of a dozen fresh eggs, pound of bacon, a dozen bangers (sausage), fresh baked nut bread and coffee.
The 1st MN Vols begin arts and crafts as we make up three banners, and AJ and I paint up our construction helmets. We're planning on departing from the Belalu lodge at 3 PM for the 8:30 kickoff, nice and early. Many fans at the lodge and the 1st MN Vols do not get on the first transport ... word trickles in from those in Rustenburg that the traffic and logistics are a mess, so our crew get in a Jeep and head off at 3:30. Driving around to the first park and ride, then the station only to find that the transport to the stadium is a mess. We're then able to drive right up to the stadium and dropped off among the masses on the tribal lands. T-minus four hours to kickoff. We walk back to get some beers and begin our walk toward the stadium. Two balls passed back to kids.

Sun Jun 13
R&R at Am Hang in the morning, then off to Boelefeld for the games and F1 from Montreal

Mon Jun 14
Up at 0800 to make coffee and breakfast ... fried up some bacon, then split the beef bangers and ground up the meat, spiced with Pere Pere sauce.
Departed for Kruger at 10:30, after several wrong turns we arrived at the stroke of 17:00 as the gates were to close.

Tues Jun 15
Up at 04:20 to go on a safari drive, meet at 04:45 at the Petrol station. Very cold wind thru the open air truck. Spot lights seeking out the animals before sunrise. Amazing sunrise, then more animal spotting. Hippos in a small reservoir, many springbok and other deer like creatures, wildebeast, water buffalo, giraffe, elephants and many different birds. Eagles, blue winged kingfishers and many other exotics in addition to a Giant Heron.
Returned at 09:00 for some breakfast at the park restaurant, an omelete with bacon, tomato and cheese plus peri peri sauce (this time it was Tabasco).
We checked out and began our own drive thru the park, and finally out the next gate to the north on our way to Sabi.
Amazing drive thru twisty bits up and down thru the mountain valleys to Sabie, finally arriving at 16:00 just in time to check in tothe Backpackers hostel, then walk up the hill to the Woodmens restaurant to watch the game (Portugal vs Ivory Coast) and have dinner. Ostrich steak was great, cooked medium, it was just like a beef steak in consistency (not at all like chicken). Check that off the food list.
A little R&R then we'll go watch Brasil vs North Korea back up the hill. Played game with a drink every time the announcer said Kaka or Dunga ... had our whole section participating, good fun. Thought North Korea did very well the first half defending en masse, until they finally gave up the goal ... one goal was amazing from the end line, beating the keeper.

Wed Jun 16
Up at 08:00 to make some of Neal's pretty good coffee from the local Sabie beans, it was so very good.
Headed out at 09:30 to Graskop for some of Harrie's Pancakes, very famous. We're going to enjoy the incredible scenery here in this area today and the adventurous guys will try the canyon swing, which droppes off a cliff edge, swings 130 meters out and over the valley.
The drive to Gaskop was very nice about 30 minutes up and out of the Sabie valley through some nice windy roads. I can see why this area is a mecca for motor and mountain bikes. Sabie Backpackers is geared toward adventure activites, especially white water rafting. But with the cold temperatures this morning, I wouldn't want to think about getting into a river as the temperatures in the shade drop radically.
Well, we got into Gaskop, and found Harrie's pancakes, the famous place from the guide books. These were not just your typical pancakes, but more like a pancake burrito, stuffed with a wide variety of fillings from chicken, pork, cheese to escargo (for the adventurous or the French). Jim liked them so much he wants go go back again tomorrow, but maybe we'll find another similar place, as competition is good and there was at least one more pancake house in that town, but I assume there are others as well.
After our nice breakfast, we wandered past vendors selling tourist items and macadamia nuts in many flavors to visit an internet cafe to update our journey for friends and family. Internet access has been very few and far between. Access cost R1.00/minute (about $2. for 15 minutes) so I just copied my current journal into email for friends and family, and updated the discussion board for our Minnesota soccer fans.
Finally the time had arrived for what we came to Gaskop for: the Big Swing. Steve was the only adventurous one as the rest of us had no desire, or fear of heights. Steve was strapped into the safety harness and first went on the zip line which was strung across the canyon. This got his adrenaline pumping, as he slid out above the canyon bottom some 60 meters below which was strewen with boulders and trees. Steve said the view was incredible. He was pulled back to the platform, and strapped into the swing apparatus. Standing backwards at the edge of the rickety looking platform over the edge of the cliff, he was given some last minute instructions. As he leaned backwards and was let go, he let out a scream as he plummeted to toward the bottom of the canyon. Reaching the end of the line, he then swung up toward the other side, then back and forth before settling above a small platform at the bottom. A rope with a bag was sent down to return the harness, and the cable was loosened to lower him to the awaiting staff member. We all agreed that Steve would not have to buy a beer for the rest of the day, and we then drove across the canyon for him to pick up his certificate and his free beverage for his courage. Several of us took video of his experience that he will be able to share with his family when he is old and grey.
On we continued toward a lookout point called God's Window, where we hiked in to some lookout areas from high above the Lowfeld?. Continuing north we find ourselves in the South African version of the Canyonlands, visiting several vistas for waterfalls. Finally, we stop at a viewpoint that overlooks the Blyde? River Canyon. The cliff face shows the many strata of different rock types. Far below sits a lodge of some sort at the bottom of a road full of switch backs.
We then retraced our journey back thru Gaskop to Sabie to pick up some grocerys for a brai (BBQ) before going up to the Woodsman to watch the big match between South Africa and Uraguay.
The long and wide turns of the highlands turned into some steep downgrades and real twisty bits we approached the river vallley bottom at Sabie to find the Traffic Control Officers guiding their prey from the camera speed trap to the side of the road. The officer signaled me, the driver, to the side then began an on thru motion the guys in back thought we should just go on thru slowly, then proceed. We'll, it was just a couple of blocks before I saw the flashing blue light in the rear mirror, pulled to the side, and rolled down the window for the officer to ask why I didn't pull over, and to follow him back to the speed trap area. After two U-turns we're back pulled in behind the traffic control vehicle and the officer approaches, and say's "Ya'llo, license?" I reply, "I don't have a yellow license". What a dumbass, he was saying hello, license the guys in back indicate. So I give him my driving license, and he goes back to the vehicle to return with a printed paper indicating the levels of fines. They captured me going 76 kph (43 mph) in a 60 kph (36 mph) so the fine calculated to 250 Rand (US$30.). The driver asks where we're from, and we say USA, he asks if we're here for the World Cup and if we're players ... seriously, look at us, five dodgy guys stuffed in a Renault Senic? He pauses, thinks, then opens his wallet and askes if we can change dollars ... I'm thinking, what the hell? now he wants a favor? He's got a fifty, two fives, and three ones (about 400. Rand) I really don't want to change the money, and begin to negotiate that I'll give him the Rand less the 250 Rand fine, and say we don't have that much money with us. I've given him the 250. and he pauses again, and he gives me back 100. I indicate that I want the ticket (as a souviner) ... he pauses , doesn't seem to want to give me the ticket ... I ask again for ticket. He gives me back another 50. and says to be careful, and not speed. What a strange experience, so I paid a US$13. "bribe" but never got the certificate.
On to the market to pick up fixin's for the braii (BBQ), a couple of the guys get in just as the store closes, but Steve and I delayed, and were denied, so we went to filling station to fuel the car. As we began to barbeque our beef and meat sausages, and boiled our corn, AJ broke out his Ostrich pate and crackers. The coals were started and a big cast iron pot was filled with water to boil for the corn. Two big rings of sausage were cooked up (one beef the other a red colored 'meat'). We have another amazing meal, then prepare to depart for the Woodsman for the Bafana Bafana game.
In the run up to the game we can hear the honking of the Vuvuzelas in the surrounding neighborhood. While many are upset with the sounds, I have grown accostom to them and am not bothered. I think that FIFA made the correct decision by not banning them, as they have become the icon of the tournament. Those who complain about the sounds while watching the games on TV, can not see the enthusiasm on the faces of the people ... it is infectous.
Bafana bafana are defeated by Uruguay starting with an ugly goal, then a fine goal by Diego Forlan, as his free kick from just outside the penalty are is slightly deflected off a defenders head and dipped under the bar. Uraguay then choked off the game and went on to win 3-0.

Thurs Jun 17
Up at 06:45 to make coffee (the last of the Sumatran from home), first to rise, so I can catch up with journal. Outside the cars are covered with frost. Sasha gets up at 07:00, the others still asleep at 09:00. Good conversations with the other early risers including a Frenchman, and a young woman from Indiana who's teaching in Polokwane.
We head out for some pancakes in a local Sabie place, I have mine with apples and cream a glass of guava juice, and it is good. Steve and Andy finally get to the phone store to sort out their cell phone batteries, and sim cards, and we proceed back to Magaliesburg.
Heading south on R24 from Rustenburg exit, I decide (late) to stop at a roadside vendor for a bag of oranges. Making the abrupt exit off the asphalt in heavy traffic I startle the other guys in the car. Twenty Rand ($2.50) for the bag of oranges, and I'm ready to merge back into the traffic off the dodgy shoulder. The traffic is heavy, and I am able to pass a car or two on the two lane highway heading for Am Hang (base of cliff). I settle in behind a truck as we're only going a short distance, and the visibility of the oncoming traffic is limited. As we approach our lodging exit a car begins to pass, then stops aside, and he's indicating that my right front tyre is going flat. Luckily we're close, and we exit to open the gate, and it's not completely flat. I make the windy drive up the dodgy dirt road at very slow speed. Arriving at Am Hang the tire is almost completely flat. Luckily the car has a full sized spare in the boot, and we've got it changed out in about five minutes.
The braii this evening consists of: marinated chicken, perie pere barbequed ribs, pork loin wrapped in bacon, tiny zucchinis, and some biscuits. Down to Balule lodge to watch France vs Mexico. The owners and bar staff are glad to see our return as it has been very quiet there for the last two days.

Fri Jun 18 (Game Day vs Slovenia)
I'm up at 08:00 to make the coffee and settle into the journal with a bowl of yogurt with meuslix, an orange and grapefruit. It is quite cold again this morning. We plan on a 10:30 departure for Johannesburg and Soccer City stadium at Ellis Park. The game kicks off at 16:00, so we intend to arrive early to the city and meet other US supporters at a local pub just east of the stadium.
Last evening, Sasha had the first bought of sickess, and we're hoping he recovers soon this morning so he can enjoy the game.
Departed Balule at 10:45 for Soccer City with the six 1st MN Vols plus two guys from California. Arrived at Pete's Pub at 12:30 where the US fans were gathering. Into the stadium at least an hour before the game. No line for the beer, so I grab a couple of Bud bottles for R$60. (US$4. each).
Sasha and I are seated in the corner about 2/3rd's of the way up the lower level. The rest of our crew are again in the front row of the upper deck at the top of the penalty area. Both Supporters sections appear to be mostly situated in the corners which is different from the usual location behind goal at the end line. There is some controversy for the other groups section as the head of security at that section insists that the supporters remain seated. Despite the fact that the entire section are supporters, they remain militant, and begin to threaten expulsion for those who insist on standing.
The game begins poorly for the US as Algeria are pressing our defenders who are unable to build any possession from the back. The entire team seems to be a step off, and Algeria go up relatively early in the match. They score a second just before half time, and the US supporters are disappointed with the run of play. I take my seat to rest and ponder the outcome as the sun has now set behind the far stand and the temperature begins to drop. While it was wonderful standing in the bright sun with my adorned construction helmet blocking the sun, the temperature begins to drop. I begin layering my clothes with the fleece Puma top over long sleeved tech shirt, then comes the nylon track suit top, followed by the colors of the 1st Minnesota Volunteers hoodie. The adidas beanie goes on my head and the helmet is upsized accordingly. The scarfs become very handy in the cold, not like our typical summer conditions.
After the game we're walking down the main street back to Pete's Pub, when I spot our driver waiting for us in the Vito. It's just before 19:00, so our group can get an early start back to Magaliesburg in order to watch the other game in our Group C: England vs Algeria. We're served dinner consisting of a grilled ham, cheese and tomato sandwich accompanied with a few bits of lettuce. My beverage of choice has been the Castle lager.

Sat Jun 19
Up just before 07:00 for our early drive to the airport as we fly Mango Air to Cape Town. The flat tire has been fixed, and Corvis (Balule lodge owner) indicates that the original tire will be OK to drive on, but we will keep the spare tire on the car and let the rental company deal with it. We've arrived at JNB and are on board the aircraft at 10:45 for the 11:00 departure. Boeing 737-800 will be our aircraft.
We're greeted by warm weather and clear skys. The driver from the Zebra Crossing's Backpackers lodge met us at arrivals for transport. We settled in, got the nickle tour, the went off for a pizza. After stuffing ourselves, we wandered down to the Fan Fest at the waterfront to see Ghana vs Australia. Budweiser for R18. (US$2.50). Standing around for the afternoon made me quite tired on my feet. After the game we wandered back up to Zebra Crossing's for a little R&R. For the 20:30 game (Denmark vs Cameroon) we found a Tapas bar with nice TV. Jim and I shared a bottle of red wine.
Early to bed at 23:00 in our hostel room for eight, but we (AJ, Anthony, Sasha and I) expect the English boys to stumble back in late and two sheets to the wind, so I put in the ear plugs, and take some benadryl for sleep. Sure enough (the others say) the wankers wander back at zero god hundred but I am unawares.

Sun Jun 20
Jerry rigged a coffee filter holder by slicing a plastic yogurt container in thirds leaving the bottom with holes. Then set it inside a six sided cheese grater. The typical pot with three knives held the apparatus.
Inquired with the beautiful young lady at the office about getting a rental car for our trip today down the east coast of the cape to see the jackass penguins in Simon's town, then down to the Cape of Good Hope. Return should bring us back up the west coast and Chapman's peak.
We'll we've returned from our journey to the end of Africa! We had two Opel Lite's for the six of us and it worked out great! The car's cost us about R240. (US$32./day with $475. damage waiver per car). The day was great, as we picked up the cars and were on the road at 11:00, down the M3 to the coast on False Bay. Wound around the bay through a string of small towns with our sights set on Simon's Town for lunch, then off to see the Jackass Penguins. The two cars we had were Opel Corsa Lite which drove nice, but I had a bit of a hard time with the gear box (right hand drive, stick on left) due to the fact that I was not winding it up to get the synchros to make easy shifts. As soon as I began really working the RPM's then I was able to find the gears more easily.
Lunch at Bertha's was fantastic, as we were seated in the outdoor patio overlooking the marina. An old British Navy base, the main street reminded me of some of St. Lucia in the West Indies. Nestled up against the hillside, the streetscape was very picturesque.
The meal was fantastic, as several of us ordered the Bertha's Platter: muscles in a cream sauce, batter fried calamari, full prawns, fillet of Angle fish over red rice with chips. Accompanied by a 500 ml Windhoek draft.
Bartered with a vendor who was selling beaded crafts for a couple of penguins. R150. (US$20.)
Back at the hostel to update journal and grab a nice cold beer R15. (US$2.). Good logistication for tomorrow's trip to Robben Island and Table Mountain from the nice gal at the Zebra Crossings office.
We're heading for a Serbian bar that Sasha found the other day to watch what I think should be one of the best games of the group stage, Ivory Coast vs Brasil. I've ordered the Shwarma with lamb which is a flat bread with tomatos R60. (US$8). AJ is trying to set up a wireless hotspot with his Nokia. Beers were R16. (US$2.15) for 500 ml of Castle drafts

Mon Jun 21
Awoke at 07:15 to find that AJ has already been up and brewed a pot of coffee, so I join him and we both update our travel logs while sitting at the picnic table under the vine covered canopy. Nice hot coffee and a bowl of yogurt w/ muesli should power me through the busy day as we have reservation for 11:00 boat ride to Robben Island (3.5 hour tour), then a hike up Table Mountain (2.5 hours up, then five minute cable ride down.
Returned the cars, R93. in petrol, however, AJ's petrol total was R240.? so we think the attendant double billed him (not clearing the pump). Long walk to the Robben Island ferry terminal under the clock tower in a drizzle. We arrive right at our 10:30 requirement, and the ferry with 300 visitors departs right on time at 11:00. The ferry ride is relatively smooth and a video program gives some brief history perfectly timed for our arrival.
We are directed to tour busses at the end of the pier, however, they have filled up by the time we arrive, so we get the first tour of the political prison grounds by a former prisoner Gaya?, who spent five years from 1976 - 1981 for political organizing. We're shown the different cell blocks including Nelson Mandela's cell (they are all 9' x 7'). I've brought a passback ball with me which I've been dribbling thru the streets, and finally get to see the famous futbol field. We get on the bus for the island tour which includesthe village where the wardens families lived; some military emplacements including a 17" gun which is undergoing restoration. We return to the pier for departure just before 14:00.
Portugal is destroying North Korea as we head for the Paulaner restaurant upon return to the waterfront, and we enjoy our first dark beer, the Dunkel, and I select the German sausage basket with chips. After the game we head for another brewery which is straight into the crowd leaving the Greenpoint Stadium, and when we arrive it is teeming with celebrating Portugal fans, so we backtrack toward the city center, as the weather begins to clear.
A grey drizzty day seemed perfect conditions for visiting the political prison at Robben Island.
I head for the Green Square Market to make a first look at the local crafts, while the rest of the crew either head for the hostel or another bar to watch the Chile vs Switzerland tie. The market is just breaking down, so I don't get a good feel for the pricing or values, and will have to return tomorrow before we depart. A little down time after the afternoon game for journal update, the first shower in days, and wash some socksunderwear. Then I head down the street to an internet cafe and await the rest of the crew on our way to find dinner. I am hoping for some line caught fish, and it seems elusive, until we closely inspect the menu at Arnold's (next to Tapas restaurant). There we are able to enjoy the Honduras vs Spain game in addition to what must have been our best culinary experience. I find a local fish, bluenose, and the others have wild game (aside from Jim who's been looking for nice salad with Feta cheese). The game platter includes: wildebeast ribs, crocodile ribs, gamba? (sort of venison) steak, and ostrich steak with chips, couscous or mashed potatoes.
Again the last match of the day ends about 22:30, so we are back at the Zebra Crossings hostel and ready for bed. Hopes for clear weather tomorrow for a trek up Table Mountain. Our room of eight (Sasha, Anthony, AJ and myself) are completed this night with a group of guys from Germany. These guys were quite quiet upon their return, unlike the boys from England who stumbled back late night and were quite disruptive.

Tues Jan 22
I'm up late this AM, after getting up in the middle of the night and having trouble getting back to sleep due to the snore fest in our dorm room (despite ear plugs and eye shade). AJ's been up for a while working on his blog entries (WinterWorldCup.com). I set up my coffee aparatus again, but have to split another yogurt cup for filter holder.
The early morning weather is clear and warm, so the trek today up the mountain looks to be perfect.
Two taxi's to the base of the cable car R50. (US$6.70) for each car with three of us. We arrive at the main drop off and head up the road to find the trail head that will take us up thru the gorge to the top of the Table. Twenty minute walk up the road, and we head up the trail for what should be a 2.5 hour trek. The route that we have chosen is the more rigorous, rather that the easy walk. We have consolidated gear into my pack, and I have my two water bottles full.
I've been walking almost continuously with a soccer ball at my feet for the last week, always looking for some kids to passback. Approaching the trailhead there is one of the ubiquitous parking attendants standing in the road with very little to do. I see him from about ten yards, and we make eye contact ... he sees the ball, so I pass it to him. He has no skill on the ball, but attempts a juggle, then passes it back to me. The ball goes back and forth a couple times as we pass, then I realize that I do NOT want to take the ball up to the Table, so I give it to him, and take some video and a photo. Passing back these two dozen balls collected from the kids in the Edina and Hopkins Soccer Clubs has been a great source of joy. Not only seeing the joy in the eyes of the kids when we passback, but while walking the streets, getting honks, good looks, and the occassional playfull interaction with those on the street has been a highlight.
After about ten minutes up the trail, it is getting quite hot. The rest of our crew: AJ, Anthony and Steve; are leading the way (Sasha has wisely decided to take the cable car to the summit and we will meet him there for the return), and since I have the pack, I take up the rear. I decide that trekking in my blue jeans is a terrible idea, but my light pants have been sent to the laundry this morning, so I stop, and drop the pants to the ground, and go the rest of the way in my boxer shorts, and my white w/ red striped USA kit - a good decision as the going gets quite tough.
As we begin up the trailhead about 11:15, I have the usual pain in my right knee, just like when refereeing games, and I know that it will pass after about ten minutes. However, I still concentrate, on fully extending my knee on each step and alternate between legs on each big step. At times the steps are nice and small about 6", but at other areas the steps between boulders is on the order of 12-14". The trail is about a yard wide, but I still try to switch back to keep my stride and minimize the vertical rise in each step. After about thirty minutes, I pass Anthony who has taken a short rest stop. Another ten minutes pass, and I come upon Steve, who offers to carry the pack for a stint. The trail is in quite good condition and they have done quite a bit of retaining with galvanized fencing wrapped blocks of boulders (1 yd x 1 yd x 3 yds). It's quite apparent that the area gets a lot of rainfall. The grade is quite steep now as we approach 12:00, and I take the pack back from Steve. We have been climbing together, with AJ and Jim well up in front out of sight. There are some small springs with water making a wonderful gurgling sound, and occassional flower among the low scrub vegitation. The sun is still shining brightly, and the temperature is very warm and we can see that part of the mountain is engulfed in clouds. Steve and I trade the pack again, as the steps are now almost all at least 12", and the task at hand is quite difficult. Turning back to look at our progress we can see the city of Cape Town below, and we are just approaching the bottom of the clouds which are scattered. We shortly enter the cloud bank and the temperature begins to drop quite a bit. However the energy that we are expending is enough to keep me warm, even in my 'shorts' and light jersey. As we approach the gorge, the sheer walls begin to close and we can see the gap where the trail climbs up to the summit, but it is impossible to see the trail, only large boulders, sheer cliffs and sky. At times, the trail approaches one side of the gorge or the other, and there is a light drizzle of water falling down the granite face, it is VERY refreshing, and at one point, I stop alone on the trail, and attempt to take some video, which I hope will turn out, and can be used as a loop of soothing sounds and visuals.
It's quite clear that we are approaching the summit, and the clouds and wind have really made the temperature drop, but I continue to press on. It's clear that none of us will want to make the same trek down as the downhill pressure on the knees is even more difficult on the joints, as I learned on my trek in the Anapurna Himal, where I had to stop for a day to recover at the Gurka Captain's tea house/lodge.
Finally we're atop the Table. There is a path up to a navigation beacon to the left (another 45 minute trek) up and into the clouds, and the easy scamper to the right toward the gondola. Steve and I ponder it a bit, and decide that if we go toward the beacon, we'll be in the clouds, and not be able to see anything, so we decide to go right. Soon the trail becomes boulders filled with concrete aggregate, and I know that we must be coming close to the end. This primitive concrete walk is quite easy to negotiate, so we know that we must be approaching the area where those who have ridden up the mountain in the tram do their exploring. This simple concrete filled path turnes into a full cobbled paving area as we encounter the first signposts for the interpretive tour. Other areas are cordoned off to protect the natural flora and fauna. The sun has almost completely burned off the cloud base, and the view down to the city and harbor of Cape Town is incredible. While the Signal Mountain is still slightly shrouded in clouds the Greenpoint Stadium is often shining quite brightly on the waterfront park. Around the other side of the mountain lodge which serves as restaurant and gift shop is a seating area where Steve has grabbed a lunch buffet and a much deserved Grolsch beer. The view down to the west coast is just as stunning with the pounding surf and small villages dotting the coastline. The scale of the view is put into perspective, when I see two helecopters flying their tour down the west coast, and they look like mosquitos.
What a magnificent trek, and I am so glad that we decided to climb the more rigorous route, for I believe that it was probably much less crowded that the easier route, and we all have a great sense of accomplishment that we will carry with us until the end of our days. We collect Sasha on the summit and purchase the return ticket on the tramway R85. (US$11.50). The ride down is almost as amazing, as the tram drop out of the head house at an angle of about 75 degrees, and rotates giving all the passengers a 360 degree view on the way down.
We've hailed a mini-bus to transport us back to Kloof and Park near the Zebra Hostel, where we will drop our gear and head out to the markets. A market at Green Street Square ? has been recommended, and we find many stall with vendors selling all kinds of crafts including: beadwork, stonework; masks, textiles, and all sorts of other artwork (and kitch). AJ, Anthony and I head into the market, begin browsing and are greeted by each and every stall owner with a polite "hello" or other greeting such as "looks and touches for free". Other vendors are more insistent, especially if they catch you eyeing a particular item. I have my sights set on some masks for gifts, and would like to purchase a textile wall hanging, or traditional African shirt. At an early stall, I find a very beautiful blue and white "Mandella" shirt, and I begin to negotiate with the vendor ... he wants R180. (US$24.) I balk and tell him that I am going to continue my shopping and may return. I now have a slight idea of where to begin my negotiations ... I would like to get the shirt for no more that half the price, and think it is worth less (still a good deal).
We continue along, and a vendor with all types of masks has piqued our interest, and he describes and shows off the masks from many different countries and tribes. While the masks from the other countries are interesting, I am interested in the South African tribal masks, after all that is where we have been traveling. Anthony is taking the lead in negotiating and the vendor want's R1100. ($145.) The mask is quite interesting and he indicates that it is from the Kiska? tribe the ancestors of Nelson Mandella. Anthony haggles with the guy and settles on a price of R700. (US$93.) R500. (US$67.), and I decide that I will get one myself.
Carrying on I set my sights on a vendor that has some of the small black masks, and I negotiate from R40. (US$5.25) for one to R70. (US$9.25) for three.
The Bafana Bafana final group stage game is approaching at the streets are a buzz with the sounds of the vuvuzelas as the yellow clad supporters make their way to the Fan Fest. We've decided to go back to Arnolds to watch the game. Anthony and I high tail it up the hill as AJ stops to pick up laundry, arriving right at kickoff. The place is packed with supporters wearing their various kits of yellow and a few vuvuzelas, which are a bit deafening indoors, but I enjoy the enthusiasm. Bafana Bafana must defeat France by four goals in order to go thru to the Round of 16, and become the first host nation not to get out of the group stage ... it is a daunting task even despite the turmoil that has enveloped the French squad. I just hear that Nicolas Anelka had been sent home by the Federation for refusing to apologize to the coach for disparaging remarks that had been made. Theirry Henry (of the infamous handball that sent the Irish out of the Euro group playoff) has apparently also been a vocal critic of the coach. One of the Australian guests at Balule lodge who is a French fan was also highly critical of the coaching decisions.
I order the ostrich burger (with no sauce) and it is again amazing, tastes just like beef. I had a desire for the wild game platter that the guys had the night before, but I trust that the wild game will appear again on a menu in front of me.
The game begins well for South Africa as the Bafana Bafana score first and are playing well, pressing the French, and thwarting the play of Ribery, the current French maestro. A second goal sends the restaraunt into a frenzy, and only a few minutes later the ball is again in the back of the French net only to be called back for off side. Les Blues score one and that just about kills the game. There is applause at the final whistle from the entire establishment, and I stand and turn toward the locals and give them my applause as well.
Now we have to dash back to the hostel, for our transport will pick us up for the airport in 30 minutes.
Mango air departs 5 minutes early (Boeing 737-800)
After a missed exit off the freeway we find ourselves on surface street in Jozi trying to find our way back to the N12. We think we know the way when we make our way on the M1 south, and somehow missed the interchange (probably wasn't one). After driving for quite a while, we think we're headed in the right direction, and stop for directions at the only petrol station we've seen in the last 30 minutes. Sure enough we're close, and get difinitive directions back to the R24 to Rustenburg. We finally arrive at 00:30.

Wed Jun 23
Settling back in at Am Hang, our hosts have provided us now with two blankets for each bed, maybe it'll be even colder than the previous nights, I'm not chancing it, and put them both on and tuck them between the two single beds between myself and Anthony.
Tomorrow is the final match day of Group C with USA playing Algeria and England playing Slovenia in simultaneous matches at 16:00. We must win to control our destiny. An England loss would send them home in disgrace, as the entire British Isles considered their draw to be EASY.
Match Day morning:
As usual we've got the water boiled to make the filtered coffee to have for breakfast with yogurt and muesli before taking the malaria tablet. We're planning on being on the road about 10:30 for the drive to Pretoria. We have a six seater Toyota Avanza SX 1.5, and it is driving AJ crazy, as the stalk for the turn signals and wipers are reversed, so that every time he signals a lane change the wipers are activated. I will get my test this morning, and Anthony has put the over/under at thirteen (I end up around 25 times hitting the incorrect stalk for lane change). We get into Pretoria with no incorrect turns or exits, and follow the signs to the stadium. AJ has been in touch with fellow fan who we'll meet up with at a Eastwood Lounge for the big pre-game party. And what a party it is as there are hundreds of USA fans streaming in and there are servers dressed is special colors denoting their particular beer of choice or specialty shot cocktail. We've arrived at least three hours before game time. At one point I am up on the stage where they have a foosball table, and people are dancing under a projection screen TV. I slip and fall down the steeply raked steps catching a step above my left hip, most of my beer goes straight up and comes down upon me. We carry on with the party as the crowd grows with game time approaching. With less than an hour to kickoff, our group of 1st MN Vols depart for the stadim which is only a block away from the first security perime
OH MY! what a day. USA top Group C. So England, how EASY was the group?
We're just back to Am Hang after a full 14 hours of jackassery which ultimately worked to our benefit with the US victory over Algeria in the final game of the group stage in 90 minutes plus one minute of the four in extra time. The celebrations in the supporters section in the end where Landon Donovan scored lasted a full 45 minutes after the final whistle.
I stayed sober in order to drive the 1st Minnesota Volunteers back to the Magaliesburg valley, fueled by the adrenaline of the match and a cup of coffee. The rest of the 1st MN Vols, however, were in fine form, with full on celebration at the bar after the match. The drive back was long, and mostly on a two lane highway with opposing traffic flashing high beams as our lights apparently were set too high, or our load of six was weighing down the rear end.
Up tomorrow at 07:00 to drive Sasha back to Jozi, and pick up the tickets for the Round of Sixteen.
Amazing day, and a beautiful result. USA will face Ghana in Rustenburg in four days time, so hopefully we will be able to stay based here at Am Hang, which has been a fantastic place to return.

Morning of Thurs Jun 24
Up at 07:00 to start the kettle and jump in the much anticipated hot shower. Fresh socks are the order of the day, then make up the last bit of coffee in our stores.

>>insert days events here
shasha to airport
shopping mall
jim's buzz cut
elephant bar
pass back 2 kids on side of road, and into empty shanty field with man walking home from work.
ostrich steaks and sausabe brai w. Anthony's corn
watch at Pockets Place

Fri Jun 25
Down day at Am Hang. Still up at 07:30 to make some of the boyz favorite UP Coffee, I have my muesli, glass of milk and sit down to start update of journal, when Walter arrives (he must be up early, for he's coming back in his Hyundai Ute) and we start talking. We're going to move out of the two adjacent cabins that we've been at for the last couple weeks and move down to the new place.
We've made the move, and we're all in the same cabin (house, actually) three beds in the main living room, then two in the bedroom, kitchen area, and a bathroom. Still very nic e to stay in a place that we are comfortable, and I know now that Walter and Karin are happy with us as well.
At 11:00 we head out for the hike up to the top of the Magalie range above Am Hang (Cliff Edge in German as Walter is from Switzerland). I am really glad that we are able to make this trek, as the Magalie range is the main geographic feature of the area. We've drive both sides of the range, and the north side were the N4 runs from Rustenburg to Pretoria has a rounded face like many of the hills in the central valley of California, while the south side of the Maligie Range is a rock face with shear cliff face, especially here at Am Hang. The trek up is not too stenuous, but I have put on my adidas Samba's rather than my Benneton 06's and there is no traction under the ball of the foot (by design, they are indoor soccer shoes), so I am slipping quite a bit is some of the loose dirt and rocks. Anthony is having a similar issue with his shoes, but his alternative are dress shoes. I should have brought at pair of light boots, or just worn the Bennetons.
Very interesting hike as we rise from Am Hang which is in a sloping grassland with some trees into a very wooded area before we reach the shear cliff. Along the trail we encounter many kinds of skat initially the large cow pies, and then as Walter points out some porcupine, and what I must assume is baboon. The baboons can become quite a nuisance, especially after they have been exposed or find food. Once they find food they will return again and again, then if they don't find the food, they can become very aggessive and attack. The neighbor woman at Pockets Place said that there was a very large male baboon that sat right outside her kitchen and was very aggressive. She had small children, so she had to tell the man to get rid of the creature. Sad, but very true.
We make the trek up thru Walter's property to the edge of the cliff, scamper up and find and escarpment that we hike up to the summit which is part of a National park. The view is quite obscured by the smoke from the fires, but we can make out the edge of the city with some reflections. There are several 'what we call deer' on the summit, and we can see across to the canopy tours or spring pools.
Walter's brought down a brai and a clothes line, for after washing my clothes in the sink I've strung them with the little bit of hockey laces that I have brought along. He's indicated that he has some of the cast iron pots that we've seen in Sabie, and we're going to make a stew tomorrow.
For now, we're off to Magaliesburg to watch what should be the best match up of the World Cup, Brazil vs Portugal. There is a recommended restaurant 30 Km down the road, Tre Bobinos, where we arrive 30 minutes before kickoff. Portugal is based here in Magaliesburg, so they have a great following in the area. I have the special, 1/2 chicken with chips. It is bathed in Peri Peri sauce, and is FANTASTIC. We split two pitchers of beer, then others decide on other libations, and I opt for another jug of Bavaria.
The game is full of misconduct as there must have been 10 cautions in the first half. We depart at half time to go to the Elephant Sports Bar for the second half. As we depart, we are suddenly accosted by the locals who wonder who we are, and upon finding out that we're Americans are most interested. The clientel appear to be the most wealthy in the area, and as Walter indicated this was the best place in the area after the previous establishment changed management, and everyone migrated to this place.
Back at the Elepahant Sports Bar, we are the only patrons aside from one other guy. It's still daylight, so I wandered over to see the old house, but it was obscured behind a wall. We watcfh the second half of Brasil v Portugal, and this game is so boring. Neither team is seems wants to loose.
We head to the Balule Lodge for the evening game and meet another group of Americans. Then we're back to Am Hang where we proceed to continue drinking our beers, then it gets real crazy. First Steve gets out his razor and begins shaving his head (Jim got a #2 shaved head the other day) to celebrate the US going first in the group. Then Jim gets his head shaved. Finally it is my turn, and when I awake in the morning, I've got some crazy stuff happening above the sideburns, since fixed.

Sat Jun 26: Quarterfinal match day USA vs Ghana
Today we cooked up a stew (polki?) in a big iron pot: beef, carrots, tomato, potato, onion, garlic, chili peppers, baby carrots, green onion. Amazing. Now we are finally in an Internet Cafe, so you get the most recent updates.
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We finally found the internet cafe after going to a shopping mall in search of some cold medicine for several who are beginning to come down with some kind of cold ... like winter dry cough, sore throat, stuffy head.
We get to the park and ride over five hours before kickoff, and park in the first row ... maybe not so good an idea, for first in last out (sure enough when we return it's bumper to bumper and it's 00:30 with busses still arriving packed with people).
We begin our walk toward the busses and stop by a van with USA fans who offer us a beer, and pick up game as I've got three balls with me to pass back. We play a little 3v3 before boarding a bus into the Bafokeng village near the stadium. We're in search of some beer and brai, as we saw people grilling and selling beer out of their front porches and garages. Turns out the place for US fans to meet is called Lucky's. The place is crawling with English fans who bought tickets for this match assuming they would be C1, only to find themselves in C2 and facing Germay tomorrow. It is strange as there are people walking around with plates of fresh meatl and beer. There is a butchery in this place and people are buying their meat and/or sausages and taking it down the street to grill. We opt to buy a quick beer and leave, as the crowd of English fans are annoying.
Right across from the stadium we find a house that is selling some incredible bbq. I get a 'brisket' (beef), a sausage and it comes with some beans and a corn meal thtat is very similar to grits. It is fantastic R50 (US$6.50) and the beers were only R10. (US$1.30).
We head into the stadium about 2 hours before kickoff to hang banners. I bought a 5 liter jug of water, and have been filling up another plastic bottle all afternoon. I'm only going to have these two beers, so I can stay focused on the game.
My seat (alone) is behind the goal right in line with the touch line, and I can not see the end line because of the sign boards. Stewards come down and try to get everyone to sit which is pretty hopeless, for the US fans make a point of standing and singing all game. I am in the front of the US fans, and Ihere are an older couple sitting behind me, so I slide to my left and remain standing. The second half, I go up to stand with Anthony who's in the second deck at the corner, much better view. However, the US team is unable to match Ghana's scoring with several prime chances not converted and the game went to 30 minutes of overtime. Ghana scored four minutes into overtime, but the US could not tie it up in the remaining time.
After the game, Anthony and I wrangle the banners that were hung at midfield in the camera view, then went to meet up with AJ, Steve and Jim. We know that getting out of the park and ride lot will be a real mess, so we're not in any hurry. We finally arrive home at Am Hang, the Geoko house, about 02:30 after a long drive down the R24 among a quite long string of cars for that hour of the morning.

Sun Jun 27
We're all a little tired this AM, however, Walter and Karin will be coming down to join us for Sunday brunch, which they have graciously provided us the bacon, bangers, eggs, nut bread, butter and apricot marmelade. So I'm up early making a fresh pot of coffee, and begin frying up the bacon. As the bacon is frying, I squeeze out the beef sausage from half a dozen bangers into a pot for frying (I will add this to the scrambled eggs). For the eggs, I've added a little milk, salt, pepper and some Peri Peri sauce. This is a version of what we'd call hot sauce, and adds some great flavor. Not too much. Some sliced oranges and grapefruit round out the table.
We enjoy a nice breakfast on the patio under the bright sunshine, and it is warm and comfortable. There is nice conversation.
Everyone is beginning to pack and organize their stuff as tomorrow Anthony, Jim and Steve will depart. I do a small bit of laundry (American Outlaws bandana, pants and socks) and hang it up to dry in the warm sun and steady breeze.
Outside the kitchen window I see quite a large number of birds alighting in a tree. So I grab the binoculars to take a look. The birds are yellow and look like goldfinches, there are other birds that look like flickers. Then I spot a small owl in the crotch of a couple of branches. Walter had picked up an owl that had been injured on the road on our first day, and this looks to be the same species. Everyone comes to take a look. This property is full of an amazing number of birds, and there are also an incredible amount of different plants.
Finally about 15:00 we decide to head back to Tres Bambinos restaurant to watch the Germany vs England game in the Round of 16. This game has been really hyped up in the media, I am sure (I don't really know, as I have had very little access to news radio, TV or the internet).
I decide to splurge on dinner, and I order a muscle soup and and it's accompanying pasta seafood special. It's quite rich and is made with a white wine cream sauce. I order a 500 ml Bavaria beer in hopes of a German win over England.
The place is really filling up with sevearal people sporting England regalia, and others expressing their German pride. Steve remarks later in the evening that the mood reminded him of the Superbowl: there are several women there who obviously don't know the game well, and squeel in excitement each and every time that Mick Jagger (Rolling Stones) is shown in the crowd. The Germans score early, and really dominate the game with their young team showing great skill both on and off the ball. The aging English show their true form of the tournament and underachieve yet again. This is much to the pleasure of the traveling 1st MN Vols.
We drive back to Am Hang for a short while, then head down to the Balule Lodge for the evening game. I finally get to watch Argentina play. They face our arch rivals, Mexico. Argentina score a goal that is clearly off sides, as Carlos Teves gets the ball in behind all the defenders. The assistant has missed it completely, and while the Italian referee, Donatelli?, goes over to consult with him, the goal stands. The Mexicans are livid, and I'm sure the referee is quite upset that he's been hung out to dry by his assistant. As half time ends and the players head for the dressing room, a skirmish erupts behind the Mexico team bench. I'd love to hear what was said both there and in the referees dressing room at the interval.
Argentina goes on to win the game handily, but Lionel Messi is yet again unable to shine brilliant for his National team as he has done for his club, Barcelona.
Down at Balule, there is one local at the bar when we arrive, but he departs for home early on this Sunday evening. That leaves us with Hugo, the friendly bartender who we've all grown quite fond. He's been sporting the Total Jackassery scarf, and has set aside a US flag that he got while working the Carni in the states a few years ago. He wants us all to sign it for him, which we all oblige.
We stay late at the lodge enjoying each others company, and clearly Hugo will be sad to see us go. We have been in the Magaliesberg valley now off and on for three weeks. He is not looking forward to our departure, and the return of a relatively slow pace with the local clientel.
I pass back one of the last balls to Hugo as we are ready to depart in the Avenza, the USA one that Kathy Riggens bought. Hugo, an avid rugby fan, has grown to enjoy watching the soccer (especially the USA), and know that the ball and other US regalia will remind him of the great times. We will be sending him images that he will be able to print and put into a special frame on the wall of the bar, and one of our scarves will also be displayed prominently.

Mon Jun 29
Up again at 07:00, start the coffee and a quick shower. Not much hair to wash. I put together a bowl of yougurt and muelsi, and sit down to write with a cup of hot coffee.
AJ and I are now planning to go to Victoria Falls, and I will have to change my flights for return a week later. In order to not spend our remaining time completely in transit, we'll probably stay up there for most of the remaining time, then return to Johannesburg for return on July 4.
Everyones up now at 09:00 doing some final packing before we depart for the airport in about an hour and a half.
Saw off the crew of Anthony, Jim and Steve, while AJ and I head out to find out about changing travel plans, so I can join him on trip north to Victoria Falls at the Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana border. However, there are no seats available for me to change my itinerary, and the cost to abandon my current flights, and purchase another fare is US$2000. So I will keep my plans and return tomorrow afternoon, thus putting an end to this incredible journey. We got the last room at the F1 Hotel near the airport for R750. (US$100.).
Just found out that my car flooded while I was away, bummer of an end to the trip. Watching the Brasil vs Chile game from the Formula 1 hotel near the airport, and we've just ordered pizza from delivery service. The pizza was terrible, it arrived cold. Signed on to a day of internet access R90. (US$12.) and that allowed me to finally spend some time to review the three weeks of email that had built up, send out a final call for players for the first rink bandy game of the summer season, and check in on a few websites. I watch Brasil destroy Chile in their Round of 16. In bed at midnight for the last night on the continent.

Tue Jun 30
Up at 08:00 for the first time in many moons, no coffee to make, so AJ and I head down the hall to the small dining area for breakfast R35. (US$4.75). Coffee, bowl of granola cereal, orange juice, milk and some toast with squeeze cheese.
Catch a taxi to O.R. Tambo Airport (JNB) at 10:00 so AJ can catch his 12:30 flight to Botswana, and me to my 13:40 flight to Niarobi on Kenya Airways. Early arrival sees the line at check in only about half a dozen deep, so I get thru the que, and wander about the terminal building looking to pick up last minute souvineers. As borading time approaches, I go thru security and enter the den of duty free shops. My what a difference to the goods that are available on the land side of the terminal building, and the prices go along with them. There are certainly some beautiful crafts, and I know I will find some more in Nairobi airport where we saw several shops on the front side of the trip.
This leg of the journey is on the 767-300 ER (extended range). This is one of the aircraft that my brother, Stephen, will be training to pilot in the upcoming months (757 and 767 series for Delta Airlines)
Stop in Nairobi for several hours layover before catching KLM 747-400 to Amsterdam. This is an overnight flight, so I hope to catch some sleep, but I've gotten into my seat with out grabbing my sleep aid pills. Hopefully the beer I had in the bar will help.
We land and the early Round of 16 game between Japan and Paraguay is still playing ... the game has gone scoreless, and is in extra time. So I scurry down to the end of the terminal to the Nairobi coffee house to watch, and the place is packed, so I somehow wrangle a stool, and set up next to the air conditioner in a far corner. Paraguay win on penalties after one of the Japanese players hits the crossbar and it goes over.
I then set out to explore the duty free shopping, and find several items of interest: Kenyan Coffees, Massai blanket, Kenyan shirt, wood bowls.
I manage to sleep much of the way to Amsterdam and arrive a little after 06:00, and make a simple transfer to the leg to Paris. This flight takes a little under and hour.
I have a couple hour lay over in Paris, and it is not clear what terminal the Delta flight will depart from, so I inquire at a customer service counter. I am directed to the adjacent terminal. However, as I try to navigate between the terminals there are police cordoning off a section of the concourse between the terminals. Apparently there is a piece of 'suspect lugggae'. So I am directed outside, and it is initially unclear how to get to terminal 2E, but eventually I find my way with my trolley carrying the oversized blue hockey duffel that had initially been filled with the soccer balls. I had decided to pack my regular pack inside the duffel, then add some of the miscellaneous items that were coming back with me including a couple of AJ's vuvuzela's.
Boarding for the final leg of the journey begins right on time, and as typical the planes are completely full, I have not seen an empty seat the entire journey to or from Johannesburg. I am square in the middle of the plane in the middle seat of the middle section. The sleep aid has worked well, for I was able to sleep for most of the flight, while still being able to wake for some water, a pasta lunch, and a pizza snack.
This trip to the World Cup South Africa 2010 has been a great journey. So much of the pre-tournament media hype about security concerns were never apparent, however, I believe that our plan to stay in the rural area of Magaliesberg played a large part in our avoiding such issues in the urban environment.
We were based in a beautiful setting at Am Hang (German for edge of the cliff), where Walter and Karin were gracious hosts. We were their first guests at what will certainly be a wonderful destination for future travelers.
The Balule Lodge was the location of our arrival brai, and the head bartender there, Hugo, was very attentive, and we always enjoyed our time there to watch the games. Even though the TV on the wall had a relatively small screen, and a slightly distorted image.
We were able to visit several areas of the country, from the magnificent Kruger National Park and it's wildlife, to Sabie and the adventurous, and Cape Town the most cosmopolitain of cities.
Arrive at MSP right on time, and took the LRT to the Mall of America where I connected with my MTC bus home. Carrying the large hockey duffel was quite straining on my shoulders as the straps are small and left two large bruises on my collarbones, oh well, so be it, it is nice to be able to make us of public transport to/from the airport.
See ya'll soon. Peace and futbol.

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