Friday, June 20, 2014 (Amazon Village)
0600: again the rooster alarm is going off an hour early, for the phone has not automatically set to the local time (no service). AJ showers then goes back to bed while I venture out to the veranda at the main lodge in attempt to update the transcription of this travelog from my little black books into a text file on my netbook. Of course this is to no avail, as there is just too much to see, and people to talk to. At one point, I note another small group of people pointing back up into the treeline behind the lodge. There is a pack of white faced monkeys swinging among the treetops and are soon gone. There are many birds to be heard and seen in the canopy of trees.
0800: breakfast is again a great spread with strong black coffee, juices, fresh fruits and several types of bread and pastries. Scrambled eggs, pizza, sausages and fried eggs are available. We are eating too well. This portion of our trip so far has been both priceless and a great value compared to what we'd have to spend in Manaus on lodging, transport and food.
0900: we are scheduled for the jungle walking tour and a couple of groups combine into a group of ten. Just down the path from the main lodge and in front of one of the cabanas, Angelo and another guide, cut up a small fish to lure in a caiman (small crocodile / alligator). The caiman knows that every other day there will be a free meal, and is there for the show. We continue our walk with Angelo narrating about the wide variety of flora and fauna in the rain forest. He cuts off a small scab from a tree that he indicates will be developed into a gasoline type fuel in the future. He lights it, and it sparks and sputters - this small bit the size of a large marble can burn for an entire night. This material is also used for incense and has a very nice smell. Another tree is the source for a silicon like material that is used to seal the joints between the wood planks on their boats. This is an ancient material that he indicates is referenced in the bible in the fable of Noah and his arc.
As we prepare to go deeper into the thick jungle he indicates that it is important to keep to the path and not to touch the plants on the sides of the path for there are poisonous spiders and snakes that may be camouflaged. We can hear a troop of monkeys in the canopy, but I am unable to see them. Angelo stops at a tree, and cuts a small twig for us to smell - it is the basis for some perfume. The soil in the rain forest is some of the worst in the world and there is only a small depth of top soil (3-4") over sand. The roots of the trees spread out and the base of the tree has a buttress like structure at the base to keep it stable. Trees here can not grow as big and tall like in our California redwood forests.
1000: the elderly English woman is feeling fain due to the heat and humidity and the second guide leads the couple back to the lodge. It would be impossible to follow the barely perceptible path back on ones one. The interesting tour continues with description of the killer bees (breed of African and European varieties) which kill the most people in Brasil than any other animal. We are also challenged to point out the tree that is used for making the blow pipe - winner gets a caipirinha from the bar that evening. Our Australian friend is able to point out the variety from which the 3 meter blowpipes are made.
1045: there is sun and clouds and Angelo predicts rain as we continue our trek. Next stop and he displays a fibrous bark that is used for making rope. Another plant, the palm is twisted and tied into a foot and a half circle. This is then placed between the feet and used to climb trees. A demonstration is given, then several of the tourists give it a try to a varying degree of success. AJ is able to climb several feet up. The most dangerous animal in the rain forest is the wild boar, and we are shown that the only way to survive an attack by pack of boars is to climb up into a tree. I am challenged to climb up onto a vine, which I am able to do and then recline for a photo op.
1145: we have returned to the lodge via a circuitous route as the rain begins to fall. AJ and I return to our cabana for our swim trunks to take a dip off the dock before lunch.
1230: lunch is another great spread including large Dorado (catfish) fillets, beans and the assorted medley of great food.
1400: we launch from the dock in two long tail skiffs of eight passengers each and head back down the tributary for our piranha fishing trip. AJ's Geostat has reacquired our global position, and we are looking forward to tracking on a map upon our return. Unfortunately, we were unable to get a signal for the GPS during the morning jungle trek.
1500: we've navigated down river to a small lake and we can see the main Amazon river beyond a treeline. We pull into the shade of the treetops and prepare to drop a line and hook with small cube of beef into the water. The technique is very interesting, for after dropping in the line, the tip of the rod is thrashed about in the water to attract the piranhas. A flock of Maracana parrots is also making a racket in adjacent palm tree. Only Angelo and the guides have caught fish so far, so we move to another location. Shortly after stopping at our new location, I am the first tourist in our boat to catch a yellow piranha, which is the size of a sunfish but with incredible sharp teeth. With little more success, we move across the small lake to another location. I can see a single egret roosting in a low branch. Many of the egrets must have migrated back to the northern hemisphere while the water is so high.
1615: we depart the fishing hole after some limited success; and hope the other boat has had better luck, so we can have a nice tasty snack of fresh cooked shore lunch at our next stop. We cross the lake to a small dock / deck, where there is a long picnic table spread out for our arrival. We are met by follow the crazy old man with a funny basket like hat on his head (apparently a version of the tin foil hat - worn by some who believe in some craziness). We grab some cold drinks (small Brahma can R$10 (US$ ) and follow the old man up the riverbank to his rubber making hut for a display. We are shown how the rubber trees are sliced with diagonal cuttings and the white latex drips into tin cups. We then go to his hut where he has a small fire of burning leaves creating a warm smoke to dry the latex that is used to spread upon a form to make any type of rubber object. Of course, for the display, he is reputed to be the local maker of condoms - good to last three years. There are several phallic forms on display and he begins his demonstration. Shortly, he has one completed, and one of the Aussie's has gladly paid R$10. for his souvenir. Next there is a display of how the locals had made rubber balls that were the wonder of the first European explorers. A base form is created with a small Coke bottle. This rubber form is stripped from the bottle and blown up like a balloon to create the form. This balloon is then taken over to a long plank that has had a thin film of rubber/latex spread to dry. The leading edge of the rubber is peeled up and the rubber ball is then used to roll and shape the form for durability. Soon there is a durable rubber ball - amazing.
Eventually a foreigner smuggled 40,000 rubber plant seeds out of the country and the Brasilian rubber plantations were no longer of any value. Henry Ford bought a large tract of land and planted trees in Brasil to supply rubber tires for his automobiles.
1700: we return from the rubber demonstration to find the dock / deck / bar with a spread of our freshly cooked piranhas. The fish is great tasting and as fresh as you can get. Those who caught the piranhas are offered up the jaw bones that are covered in the razor sharp teeth.
1715: return via the long tail boats to the Amazon village as the sun is setting behind some far clouds. Upon our arrival back at the Amazon Village, we are back into our swim trunks and jumping off the dock for a refreshing dip.
1900: dinner again, and we are fed like kings. Tonight the star of the meal is a whole cooked Dorado. There is a special cooked vegetable, Machacha, that is unique to the Amazon and resembles a cucumber. Rain begins to fall is a torrential downpour, and none of the guests want to leave the tables. Eventually, we are persuaded to retire to the bar for caipirinhas, so the staff is able to clean the dining area. There is thunder and lightning in the distance. The sound of the rain falling upon the thatched roofs is wonderful. We have several rounds of caipirinhas and conversations range from futebol to travel and economics.
2200: early to bed with a quick scan of the rafters before settling in after a magical day in the Amazon rain forest.
0600: again the rooster alarm is going off an hour early, for the phone has not automatically set to the local time (no service). AJ showers then goes back to bed while I venture out to the veranda at the main lodge in attempt to update the transcription of this travelog from my little black books into a text file on my netbook. Of course this is to no avail, as there is just too much to see, and people to talk to. At one point, I note another small group of people pointing back up into the treeline behind the lodge. There is a pack of white faced monkeys swinging among the treetops and are soon gone. There are many birds to be heard and seen in the canopy of trees.
0800: breakfast is again a great spread with strong black coffee, juices, fresh fruits and several types of bread and pastries. Scrambled eggs, pizza, sausages and fried eggs are available. We are eating too well. This portion of our trip so far has been both priceless and a great value compared to what we'd have to spend in Manaus on lodging, transport and food.
0900: we are scheduled for the jungle walking tour and a couple of groups combine into a group of ten. Just down the path from the main lodge and in front of one of the cabanas, Angelo and another guide, cut up a small fish to lure in a caiman (small crocodile / alligator). The caiman knows that every other day there will be a free meal, and is there for the show. We continue our walk with Angelo narrating about the wide variety of flora and fauna in the rain forest. He cuts off a small scab from a tree that he indicates will be developed into a gasoline type fuel in the future. He lights it, and it sparks and sputters - this small bit the size of a large marble can burn for an entire night. This material is also used for incense and has a very nice smell. Another tree is the source for a silicon like material that is used to seal the joints between the wood planks on their boats. This is an ancient material that he indicates is referenced in the bible in the fable of Noah and his arc.
As we prepare to go deeper into the thick jungle he indicates that it is important to keep to the path and not to touch the plants on the sides of the path for there are poisonous spiders and snakes that may be camouflaged. We can hear a troop of monkeys in the canopy, but I am unable to see them. Angelo stops at a tree, and cuts a small twig for us to smell - it is the basis for some perfume. The soil in the rain forest is some of the worst in the world and there is only a small depth of top soil (3-4") over sand. The roots of the trees spread out and the base of the tree has a buttress like structure at the base to keep it stable. Trees here can not grow as big and tall like in our California redwood forests.
1000: the elderly English woman is feeling fain due to the heat and humidity and the second guide leads the couple back to the lodge. It would be impossible to follow the barely perceptible path back on ones one. The interesting tour continues with description of the killer bees (breed of African and European varieties) which kill the most people in Brasil than any other animal. We are also challenged to point out the tree that is used for making the blow pipe - winner gets a caipirinha from the bar that evening. Our Australian friend is able to point out the variety from which the 3 meter blowpipes are made.
1045: there is sun and clouds and Angelo predicts rain as we continue our trek. Next stop and he displays a fibrous bark that is used for making rope. Another plant, the palm is twisted and tied into a foot and a half circle. This is then placed between the feet and used to climb trees. A demonstration is given, then several of the tourists give it a try to a varying degree of success. AJ is able to climb several feet up. The most dangerous animal in the rain forest is the wild boar, and we are shown that the only way to survive an attack by pack of boars is to climb up into a tree. I am challenged to climb up onto a vine, which I am able to do and then recline for a photo op.
1145: we have returned to the lodge via a circuitous route as the rain begins to fall. AJ and I return to our cabana for our swim trunks to take a dip off the dock before lunch.
1230: lunch is another great spread including large Dorado (catfish) fillets, beans and the assorted medley of great food.
1400: we launch from the dock in two long tail skiffs of eight passengers each and head back down the tributary for our piranha fishing trip. AJ's Geostat has reacquired our global position, and we are looking forward to tracking on a map upon our return. Unfortunately, we were unable to get a signal for the GPS during the morning jungle trek.
1500: we've navigated down river to a small lake and we can see the main Amazon river beyond a treeline. We pull into the shade of the treetops and prepare to drop a line and hook with small cube of beef into the water. The technique is very interesting, for after dropping in the line, the tip of the rod is thrashed about in the water to attract the piranhas. A flock of Maracana parrots is also making a racket in adjacent palm tree. Only Angelo and the guides have caught fish so far, so we move to another location. Shortly after stopping at our new location, I am the first tourist in our boat to catch a yellow piranha, which is the size of a sunfish but with incredible sharp teeth. With little more success, we move across the small lake to another location. I can see a single egret roosting in a low branch. Many of the egrets must have migrated back to the northern hemisphere while the water is so high.
1615: we depart the fishing hole after some limited success; and hope the other boat has had better luck, so we can have a nice tasty snack of fresh cooked shore lunch at our next stop. We cross the lake to a small dock / deck, where there is a long picnic table spread out for our arrival. We are met by follow the crazy old man with a funny basket like hat on his head (apparently a version of the tin foil hat - worn by some who believe in some craziness). We grab some cold drinks (small Brahma can R$10 (US$ ) and follow the old man up the riverbank to his rubber making hut for a display. We are shown how the rubber trees are sliced with diagonal cuttings and the white latex drips into tin cups. We then go to his hut where he has a small fire of burning leaves creating a warm smoke to dry the latex that is used to spread upon a form to make any type of rubber object. Of course, for the display, he is reputed to be the local maker of condoms - good to last three years. There are several phallic forms on display and he begins his demonstration. Shortly, he has one completed, and one of the Aussie's has gladly paid R$10. for his souvenir. Next there is a display of how the locals had made rubber balls that were the wonder of the first European explorers. A base form is created with a small Coke bottle. This rubber form is stripped from the bottle and blown up like a balloon to create the form. This balloon is then taken over to a long plank that has had a thin film of rubber/latex spread to dry. The leading edge of the rubber is peeled up and the rubber ball is then used to roll and shape the form for durability. Soon there is a durable rubber ball - amazing.
Eventually a foreigner smuggled 40,000 rubber plant seeds out of the country and the Brasilian rubber plantations were no longer of any value. Henry Ford bought a large tract of land and planted trees in Brasil to supply rubber tires for his automobiles.
1700: we return from the rubber demonstration to find the dock / deck / bar with a spread of our freshly cooked piranhas. The fish is great tasting and as fresh as you can get. Those who caught the piranhas are offered up the jaw bones that are covered in the razor sharp teeth.
1715: return via the long tail boats to the Amazon village as the sun is setting behind some far clouds. Upon our arrival back at the Amazon Village, we are back into our swim trunks and jumping off the dock for a refreshing dip.
1900: dinner again, and we are fed like kings. Tonight the star of the meal is a whole cooked Dorado. There is a special cooked vegetable, Machacha, that is unique to the Amazon and resembles a cucumber. Rain begins to fall is a torrential downpour, and none of the guests want to leave the tables. Eventually, we are persuaded to retire to the bar for caipirinhas, so the staff is able to clean the dining area. There is thunder and lightning in the distance. The sound of the rain falling upon the thatched roofs is wonderful. We have several rounds of caipirinhas and conversations range from futebol to travel and economics.
2200: early to bed with a quick scan of the rafters before settling in after a magical day in the Amazon rain forest.
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