Saturday, June 21, 2014 (Amazon Village to Manaus)

0600: AJ's alarm goes off an hour early, and I wonder if he's done that on purpose to make me feel better about my previous two days mistakes. I immediately forgive him.
0700: rooster phone and watch alarms sound simultaneously. I grab my black books and head to the patio to catch up on my transcriptions. I have been able to write consistently in the books, but have found little time to transpose the text into the computer for posting to the online travelogue. There has been even less time and opportunity to access WiFi and the internet to update the blog. I fear this will be the case for much of the remainder of the trip.
0800: final breakfast at the lodge on our departure day. Another large spread with four fruit juices and half a dozen breads and pastries.
0900: we settle our bar tab R$128, take some photos and return to prepare for our departure.
1000: large speedboat from the Amazon village thru the 'meeting of the waters' where there is a confluence of two rivers, a muddy one and a clear one. The run side by side for 15 kilometers (about 10 miles). Our speedboat has capacity for 32 passengers and is powered by a 225 HP Suzuki outboard motor.
1030: we have made great time down the tributary which is on the north bank just downstream from Manaus. There are diving birds and floating lilys along the clearly defined edge between the two rivers. There are many large container and Petrobras ships (Brasilian state oil company). Most everything must be shipped up river from the coast, and we are a long way from there.
1100: we have returned to the ferry terminal and transfer to a 16 passenger Citroen van. There is heavy traffic. Gasoline is R$2.90/liter (US$5.24/gal) Ethanol is R$2.59/l (US$4.63). It is approaching mid day and the temperature is 34C (92F) luckily we are in air conditioned transport. Just before noon, we are dropped at the Manaus airport where we will pick up rental car. The Num Lock on my netbook is acting up and it is a major pain, for I am unable to transpose my notes from the black books into the computer, or compose any sort of email.
1530: I break out our portable coffee apparatus and make another couple cups in the Fun Zone as we watch a game. I meet a nice guy, Casey Grady, who is working for a company that is making child labor free soccer balls. We encounter a major issue with the rental car, as we understand that the Dollar agency is at another location. As it turns out, it is only just around the corner at the old terminal. What a waste of time. Unfortunately, we did not determine this until after Bill and Charlie had arrived from Rio - we could have figured this out while we had all afternoon to spare.
1900: we're finally on our way after selecting the Chevy Celta over the Fiat UNO. Just barely able to fit our large hockey gear bags with scarves plus the four of us and our carry on packs.
2030: and we're finally at the Comfort Inn where we find a large group of US fans already partying in the lobby bar. We have to strategically enter the hotel, for we have reserved room for two.
2100: we depart for the US Soccer Fan HQ party where we have brought in several bags of scarves to sell. Beers are R$7 (US$3.15) they are cold and very bland. A small pizza the sixe of my palm is R$12 (US$5.40). We are making our way around the party, and I have draped scarves over each shoulder to display all sides like a sandwich board. We are moving them like hot cakes. At one point someone from US Soccer approaches me and tells me that if I continue to sell the scarves, I will be asked to leave. I stop approaching people, but with a clear bag tied to my belt, people keep coming. Soon, we have sold all that we have brought to the party. We pile back into our rental car and return to hotel. Big game tomorrow. 

Friday, June 20, 2014 (Amazon Village)

Friday, June 20, 2014 (Amazon Village)

0600: again the rooster alarm is going off an hour early, for the phone has not automatically set to the local time (no service). AJ showers then goes back to bed while I venture out to the veranda at the main lodge in attempt to update the transcription of this travelog from my little black books into a text file on my netbook. Of course this is to no avail, as there is just too much to see, and people to talk to. At one point, I note another small group of people pointing back up into the treeline behind the lodge. There is a pack of white faced monkeys swinging among the treetops and are soon gone.  There are many birds to be heard and seen in the canopy of trees.
0800: breakfast is again a great spread with strong black coffee, juices, fresh fruits and several types of bread and pastries. Scrambled eggs, pizza, sausages and fried eggs are available. We are eating too well. This portion of our trip so far has been both priceless and a great value compared to what we'd have to spend in Manaus on lodging, transport and food.
0900: we are scheduled for the jungle walking tour and a couple of groups combine into a group of ten. Just down the path from the main lodge and in front of one of the cabanas, Angelo and another guide, cut up a small fish to lure in a caiman (small crocodile / alligator).  The caiman knows that every other day there will be a free meal, and is there for the show. We continue our walk with Angelo narrating  about the wide variety of flora and fauna in the rain forest. He cuts off a small scab from a tree that he indicates will be developed into a gasoline type fuel in the future. He lights it, and it sparks and sputters - this small bit the size of a large marble can burn for an entire night. This material is also used for incense and has a very nice smell. Another tree is the source for a silicon like material that is used to seal the joints between the wood planks on their boats. This is an ancient material that he indicates is referenced in the bible in the fable of Noah and his arc.
As we prepare to go deeper into the thick jungle he indicates that it is important to keep to the path and not to touch the plants on the sides of the path for there are poisonous spiders and snakes that may be camouflaged. We can hear a troop of monkeys in the canopy, but I am unable to see them. Angelo stops at a tree, and cuts a small twig for us to smell - it is the basis for some perfume.  The soil in the rain forest is some of the worst in the world and there is only a small depth of top soil (3-4") over sand. The roots of the trees spread out and the base of the tree has a buttress like structure at the base to keep it stable. Trees here can not grow as big and tall like in our California redwood forests.
1000: the elderly English woman is feeling fain due to the heat and humidity and the second guide leads the couple back to the lodge. It would be impossible to follow the barely perceptible path back on ones one. The interesting tour continues with description of the killer bees (breed of African and European varieties) which kill the most people in Brasil than any other animal. We are also challenged to point out the tree that is used for making the blow pipe - winner gets a caipirinha from the bar that evening. Our Australian friend is able to point out the variety from which the 3 meter blowpipes are made.
1045: there is sun and clouds and Angelo predicts rain as we continue our trek. Next stop and he displays a fibrous bark that is used for making rope. Another plant, the palm is twisted and tied into a foot and a half circle. This is then placed between the feet and used to climb trees. A demonstration is given, then several of the tourists give it a try to a varying degree of success. AJ is able to climb several feet up.  The most dangerous animal in the rain forest is the wild boar, and we are shown that the only way to survive an attack by pack of boars is to climb up into a tree. I am challenged to climb up onto a vine, which I am able to do and then recline for a photo op.
1145: we have returned to the lodge via a circuitous route as the rain begins to fall. AJ and I return to our cabana for our swim trunks to take a dip off the dock before lunch.
1230: lunch is another great spread including large Dorado (catfish) fillets, beans and the assorted medley of great food.
1400: we launch from the dock in two long tail skiffs of eight passengers each and head back down the tributary for our piranha fishing trip. AJ's Geostat has reacquired our global position, and we are looking forward to tracking on a map upon our return. Unfortunately, we were unable to get a signal for the GPS during the morning jungle trek.
1500: we've navigated down river to a small lake and we can see the main Amazon river beyond a treeline. We pull into the shade of the treetops and prepare to drop a line and hook with small cube of beef into the water. The technique is very interesting, for after dropping in the line, the tip of the rod is thrashed about in the water to attract the piranhas. A flock of Maracana parrots is also making a racket in adjacent palm tree. Only Angelo and the guides have caught fish so far, so we move to another location. Shortly after stopping at our new location, I am the first tourist in our boat to catch a yellow piranha, which is the size of a sunfish but with incredible sharp teeth. With little more success, we move across the small lake to another location. I can see a single egret roosting in a low branch. Many of the egrets must have migrated back to the northern hemisphere while the water is so high.
1615: we depart the fishing hole after some limited success; and hope the other boat has had better luck, so we can have a nice tasty snack of fresh cooked shore lunch at our next stop. We cross the lake to a small dock / deck, where there is a long picnic table spread out for our arrival. We are met by  follow the crazy old man with a funny basket like hat on his head (apparently a version of the tin foil hat - worn by some who believe in some craziness). We grab some cold drinks (small Brahma can R$10 (US$ ) and follow the old man up the riverbank to his rubber making hut for a display. We are shown how the rubber trees are sliced with diagonal cuttings and the white latex drips into tin cups. We then go to his hut where he has a small fire of burning leaves creating a warm smoke to dry the latex that is used to spread upon a form to make any type of rubber object. Of course, for the display, he is reputed to be the local maker of condoms - good to last three years. There are several phallic forms on display and he begins his demonstration. Shortly, he has one completed, and one of the Aussie's has gladly paid R$10. for his souvenir. Next there is a display of how the locals had made rubber balls that were the wonder of the first European explorers. A base form is created with a small Coke bottle. This rubber form is stripped from the bottle and blown up like a balloon to create the form. This balloon is then taken over to a long plank that has had a thin film of rubber/latex spread to dry. The leading edge of the rubber is peeled up and the rubber ball is then used to roll and shape the form for durability. Soon there is a durable rubber ball - amazing.
Eventually a foreigner smuggled 40,000 rubber plant seeds out of the country and the Brasilian rubber plantations were no longer of any value. Henry Ford bought a large tract of land and planted trees in Brasil to supply rubber tires for his automobiles.
1700: we return from the rubber demonstration to find the dock / deck / bar with a spread of our freshly cooked piranhas. The fish is great tasting and as fresh as you can get. Those who caught the piranhas are offered up the jaw bones that are covered in the razor sharp teeth.
1715: return via the long tail boats to the Amazon village as the sun is setting behind some far clouds. Upon our arrival back at the Amazon Village, we are back into our swim trunks and jumping off the dock for a refreshing dip.
1900: dinner again, and we are fed like kings. Tonight the star of the meal is a whole cooked Dorado. There is a special cooked vegetable, Machacha, that is unique to the Amazon and resembles a cucumber.  Rain begins to fall is a torrential downpour, and none of the guests want to leave the tables. Eventually, we are persuaded to retire to the bar for caipirinhas, so the staff is able to clean the dining area. There is thunder and lightning in the distance. The sound of the rain falling upon the thatched roofs is wonderful. We have several rounds of caipirinhas and conversations range from futebol to travel and economics.
2200: early to bed with a quick scan of the rafters before settling in after a magical day in the Amazon rain forest.

Thursday, June 19, 2014 (Manaus Hostel to Amazon Village)

0600: alarm set an hour early by mistake. Hope AJ doesn't dock me another demerit. I try to make amends by getting right up and starting our coffee ritual while he snoozes for another half hour. Meanwhile, I sit down to transpose the notes from my little black book and into the text file on my net book. I have only been able to transpose up thru Monday as we have been on such a hectic schedule - I hope we can find some downtime, but I fear we may have scheduled ourselves on a very tight timeline for the entirety of the trip (at least thru next Wednesday when we depart Rio de Janeiro).
0700: and the breakfast provided by the hostel is ready. Coffee, bread, cheese, pineapple, guava (or papaya) and banana.
0800: we're all packed up and ready to be picked up by Brazil Nuts tour. As we wait outside on the veranda the temperature and humidity is stifling with barely any breeze to cool our skin. Half and hour and still no sign of our transport.
0905: the transport (Peugot 15 passenger van with air conditioning) arrives. Maybe there was some misunderstanding between our itinerary and the tour provider here in Manaus. There is an Austrian couple already aboard, and we are off to pick up the next pilgrims. Ten minutes later we have arrived at the Inner City Premium Hotel to pick up a pair of Australian guys as the rain begins to fall. Our guide, Angelo (Marco) indicates that he doesn't believe the rain will last too long. The slight drizzle has become a downpour and there are dark clouds on the horizon. We pass by a covered field with several guys playing futebol. There are a couple more fields adjacent - Brasil really is crazy for their futebol. We pass some gas stations where the price is R$3.84/liter (US$6.85). I imagine the greater cost compared to Natal is due to it all having to be shipped up the river, and there are many tanker ships moored in the river.
0940: arrival at the ferry terminal. The guide, Angelo, asks if we're all prepared and lists some items of importance: flashlight, rain poncho, water. He indicates that we should all purchase a 2 liter bottle of water R$4 (US$1.90). There will be drinks available for purchase during meals, but nothing else will be provided (later he indicates during our canoe tour that the water in the tributary in crystal clear and is save to drink ... we do not take him up on this. I take a moment to walk down the market and covered terminal where the automobiles pay their fare, then maneuver into position to back up onto the ferry. The ramp slopes to the river and there is meat and fish market on the left side and dry goods on the right. There are piles of fresh fish with some ice covering. They look great, and there are many different types.
<PHOTO>
1000: we depart on a small boat which can seat up to 16 passengers and is powered by a Suzuki 115 HP outboard motor. Our group consists of six tourists, our guide, a driver and assistant. The rain continues as we walk down a pair of parallel planks to the dock launch and climb aboard. The boat has plastic screens installed on the front and along both sides to protect us from the now driving rain. We have a very limited view of the riverside and the activity in the middle. The river is massive and even here in Manaus way up the Amazon it is wider than I recall the Mississippi to be near New Orleans. We are shortly speeding along not too far from the north bank and one of the Aussies is drenched by a rouge wave. Apparently they have forgotten to pull in a bollard and it caught a wave. We slow and the assistant hauls it in. We pass a large bridge structure that juts like a bridge into the river. I ask if that is a petrol terminal and he says that it is the water pumping station for the City of Manaus. The driving rain continues and we can see that the river banks are flooded with the tree tops jutting above the water. Due to the weather there will be no chance to see the meeting of the waters today as scheduled - Angelo indicates that we will see upon our return (weather permitting I say to myself). The 'meeting of the waters' is one of the main attractions here in Manaus. This is at the confluence of two rivers, one running clear (Rio Negro) and the other muddy (Rio ?). There are whitecaps on the river and we are in for a bumpy ride.
1030: we turn in to a tributary and stop to change a gas tank and then drop off the assistant, who as it turns out is another boat captain. He is dropped at a dock along the tributary where we can tell that the water is quite high and approaching the houses.
1045: we're now on a smooth tributary and the rain appears to be slowing down. We are now motoring among the tree tops. Angelo indicates that the water is 13 meters above the low season level when there is a small channel only 20 centimeters deep. We have been able to take this large boat all the way instead of having to transfer to one of the shallow draft skiffs with the long tail motor and propeller.
1100: arrival at the Amazon Village. We are given instructions about when we are required to wear shoes and trousers (just during our jungle tour). The keys are passed out, and we are in a 'duplex' cabin next to the Aussie guys. As we are settling in, we hear some excited tones coming from the other side of the wall. The guys, upon inspection, have found a tarantula spider high above in the roof thatch. <PHOTO>
1200: We get into our swim trunks and head back to the dock for a swim. AJ and I jump in and swim out to the submerged trees and I climb up into the branches to perch just above the water line. There is only a slight drizzle, and it is warmer in the water than outside of it.
1230: lunch buffet includes beef, fish, spaghetti, the cooks here are amazing. Always enjoyable conversations with our tour mates.
1500: swamp tour via the long tail skiff. The larger skiff have Yamaha 300cc, these can carry about 10-12 people. The locals travel via smaller skiffs which can carry two or three and are powered by Honda 160cc motors.  The motors are connected to a four foot 'long tail' shaft with a propeller at the end. These are the only way to travel in the shallow channels in the dry season. We are now in the high water season with the water 12-13 meters above the low water line, when the there is a narrow channel only 20 cm deep. Many of the narrow channels that we are traveling now, are walking paths in the low season.
During our swamp tour we see many birds including buzzards, red hawk (w/ grey white head), fork tailed fly catcher, and egret among various other unidentified aviary. We enter a very narrow tributary where the boat driver shuts down the motor and begins to paddle. We are instructed to be quiet so that we may hear the many noises from the rainforest. The driver then indicates something high in the tree, and we can barely make out the shape of the extremely slow moving three toed slot. The sloth is climbing to the top of the canopy to eat the fresh leaves.
1600: we begin our return to the lodge there is no rain and the sun has begun to poke thru the clouds. We return via the main tributary an there are fish surfacing to feed upon the insects. There are even a few flying fish. We hear a loud racket from a small flock of birds and our guide instructs us that this is a group of Maracana (parrots) and is the namesake of the famous stadium in Rio.
1650: visit a traditional Amazon house where they are selling some handmade wares in addition to some items that have obviously been purchased in Manaus. I purchase two bracelets for R$5 each and AJ and I have an ice cold Kaiser beer R$5.
1715: depart the traditional riverside village for the 5' ride back to the Amazon Village Lodge. As we approach the compound, Angelo indicates that we are riding 10 meters above the soccer field and we can make out the rectangular shape of the treeline at the perimeter. Upon our return there is a great commotion as a tarantula spider hanging at the edge of the eave next to the dining room where it is catching the flying termites. It makes quick motion to snatch the insects from the air with it's hairy front legs and draws them into the mouth.
1800: dusk descends and the flying termites are crazy bad, so we must be sure to close the door to our cabana which has insect screens on the windows to keep the bugs at bay.
1900: dinner at the lodge is again a wonderful spread, and there are four other groups in addition to our own. One of the groups includes a couple of women from Seattle and one of their sons. Another group includes an elderly couple from England and three folks from Vancouver. Dinner includes: salads of shredded cabbage, carrots, cucumbers and some beet like vegetable. Main courses are: vegetable soup, spaghetti, rice, potatoes, carrots, lasagna, beef (flank steak and tongue) and fish.
2200: bedtime, and I have put in my earplugs and begun to sleep when I hear Andy freaking out and letting out a curse. He has been laying in bed not yet asleep when a tarantula spider drops and lands on his neck. He brushes it off, feeling the hairy legs\ and can hear the patter of the eight feet across his pillow. I am just barely able to get back to sleep with one eye open with little fear that the spider will return.

Wednesday, June 18 (Ponta Negra to Manaus)

Wednesday, June 18 (Ponta Negra to Manaus)

0700: rooster phone alarm sounds, one snooze then I'm up and beginning to boil some water for coffee.  Pack up our stuff and we're on the road to the airport.
0900: we're back on the streets of Natal - this time in the light of day which is much more enjoyable than upon our arrival a couple of days ago. Street signs are clearly visible as we navigate the mid morning traffic. Only one missed turn this time, thanks to the Nokia navigation that AJ was able to download to his phone. We now have full mapping and GPS navigation for the entire country which will make our travel much easier.
1015: arrive at NAT where we park the car at the luggage claim, lower level. We are able to park right there and Avis send a guy out to check the car over as the rental transaction is completed.
1100: we have wrangled our carry on and the two large gear bags full of scarves to the departure level and checked in and got the luggage on its way.  They provided large plastic bags to cover the packs - I guess we are expecting thunderstorms upon our arrival in the Amazon.
1140: as we taxi out, I spot a strange looking airplane.  It is a Boeing 767 that is painted all white with simple small lettering, Dynamic Airways, and USA tail number N767DA. This must be the charter plane for The American Outlaws. We are wheels up and on our way to Manaus in a TAM airlines Airbus A319. I have seat 1A and feel like a rock star. It is not first class seating, but it is the closest to the front of an aircraft that I have ever been seated. AJ is in seat 1E, the other window seat in the first row.
By the time we get to our seats the overhead bins are full, so we anticipate having the carry ons stowed below. I l . As we taxi out, we note that the minimally marked Dynamic Airways Boeing 737 with tail number,N767DA, is still parked on the tarmac. I was surprised to see that the aircraft was left idle for these several days before shuttling The American Outlaws to Manaus.
1430: arrive in Manaus, Amazon. Despite the cloudy skies, we can make out the massive river system. This is the high water season as the snow is melting high up in the Andes Mountains. We can clearly see that the city is carved from the Amazon jungle/rainforest. A clear edge defines the city and there are only a few arterial roads leading to the north, while to the south, there are roads only accessed by a single bridge on the west (upriver) and ferry at the east. There is slight rain as we arrive.
We seek out the storage lockers, so we may drop our luggage full of scarves. At the desk they indicate R$30/day (US$14) for a large bag and R$15/day (US$7) for a small bag. They indicate that we will need to pay for a large and a small. I begin to negotiate, believing that they have some sort of secure storeroom, but they insist we must pay for a large and a small and there is no negotiation with the woman behind the counter. I continue to insist on two small, so one of the gals leads us outside where we find the lockers. We are able to cram the large hockey gear bag into the small locker and save about $21 for our three days of storage while we go on our tour of the Amazon jungle.
After we finish this task, we arrange for our taxi to the hostel for a set rate of R$65. (US$31). Hostel for us 2 is a pretty nice setup in a massive colonial building near the city center in the south, just two blocks north of the grand auditorium and Governor's house. We are set up in a common room that has five bunks three beds high. There are only nine bunks made up at this time. AJ notices that the top of a storage cabinet has AXE body spray among the clutter of junk and he swears - remembering the hostel in Cape Town, South Africa, where we were in a room with a bunch of drunk English guys who doused themselves before going out. AJ has bad reaction to perfumes, and assumes that the room will be full of Croatian guys returning late tonight after their game at the Manaus stadium.
We get ourselves settled in and retire to the community room on the main floor/entry and have a couple of Skol beers R$6 (US$2.80) for two cans. We both are working diligently to get our phone Brasilian phone service. I had added US$50. to my T-mobile account in Natal in order to make connection with Bill. I now try to change my plan to an International roaming, but decide that I will have to forfeit my current balance and trust that we will be able to get AJ's device(s) to work. The original SIM card purchased in Pipa has not yet worked properly in any of the phones that we have tried. They may be locked to US service provider. AJ used my scissors yesterday to trim down the phone SIM card to fit into one of his Nokia  devices, however, we have yet to be able to activate and are in search of a Claro storefront (Brasilian wireless phone provider). After an hour of frustration we decide to bag it and hit the street to find something to eat and return to watch our Minnesota United FC (NASL) play Sporting Kansas City (MLS) in the Fourth Round of the US Open Cup (USOC).
We head down the street toward the Auditorium in hopes of finding a restaurant for some fresh fish. It becomes clear that we may not find what we are looking for, and due to short time we duck into a Japanese restaurant. We realize that only the kitchen and backside are on the first floor and we have to climb the stairs to the second floor (a good sign in my experience). We review the menu and decide on two meals to go. We each get the grilled regional fish with vegetables, french fries and rice for R$45 (US$21) we both have a nice cold beer while we wait R$10 (US$4.70 each).
We return to watch the USOC match via the internet, which is very exciting for us for we had been to the Third Round match in Des Moines the week before our departure. All of the Loon fans are excited for a long run in the tournament. The web stream is quite dodgy with long periods of buffering, but what the hell, we're watching our team in the USOC from the Amazon, eating fresh local fish and drinking cold beer. How great is that!
I set AJ off when I begin to complain about the referee letting the game begin with the teams jersey colors - not enough contrast. KC is playing in their grey half hoop jersey, and our Loons are in their (home) grey. Maybe in the stadium you can tell the difference between the teams, but on the video almost impossible, especially after the players begin to sweat and the lighter grey becomes almost identical.  AJ says the referee will sort it out at halftime ... and he did. Sporting KC must have raided their merchandise shop, for they appear in a light blue training jersey of some sort in the second half. The jerseys do not have any numbers. This is just plain incompetence by USSF and the teams for not coordinating well in advance what the protocol for contrasting uniforms. The ultimate blame resides with the Referee for allowing the game to begin with such a situation.
The Loons central defender, Cristiano Diaz is sent off for a straight red card in the 50' and the team face an up hill battle on the road and down a man for 40'. Our keeper Mitch Hildebradt makes some great saves and the team is defending very well, but KC are able to score in the 76'. The Loons come close to scoring the equalizer on a Thiago header from a corner kick in the 86'. KC score again in the 87' to seal the victory.
2200: it's time for a shower and early to bed for we're anticipating the bunk room to become quite raucous. Our tour will be picking us up tomorrow morning to take us on a motorized boat into the Amazon river and to our lodge. The shower is refreshing and really helps cool me down. The heat and humidity here is incredible. They have had a lot of rain and the hostel operator has indicated that the Amazon is at a 75 year record level. I wonder how the river level will affect our tour.
0000: finally ready for bed and have taken the malaria pill and set up my bed netting by tying off the center and wedging the corners of the netting between the mattress and the wood slats of the bunk above. No signs yet of returning fans, so maybe a peaceful night sleep.

Tuesday, June 17 (Pipa to Ponta Negra)

Tuesday, June 17 (Pipa to Ponta Negra)

0700 and my rooster phone alarm is blaring and calling for me to awake and make some coffee, one of our simple pleasures. AJ has brought his folding silicon coffee filter holder. I have a pair of stacking Stanley lexan cups and an immersion water heater. This little kit is going to give us a simple bit of pleasure every morning. We're going thru this first bag of Starbucks Sumatran coffee at a good clip, and I look forward to purchase of some Brasilian coffee in the near future. Bill and Charlie are on their way just after 1000 and AJ and I head out to purchase a SIM card for phone(s). Telephone and wireless service has been terrible, and contributed to a very frustrating couple of days trying to make contact and connections. For example, we must make contact with the caretaker to pass on the keys and transmitter for the automatic door opener to the compound, but we do not have any way to telephone him yet. We are able to purchase a Claro SIM card for R$10. (US$4.70), but are unable to get it to work in the first couple of phones we try. I am not a technology expert by any means, but Andy is and he is becoming increasingly frustrated with the situation. At this point, only Bill and I have been able to communicate via our US phone services but at an extraordinary cost (US$3.65/minute). I have already had to load US$50. to my account in order to make a couple of urgent calls to logisticate the ticket transfer and arrange to meet our crew in Pipa.
1200: we've called the caretaker after paying to use a local land line at a wireless cafe R$2. (US$1) to arrange to meet him at the compound. We trek back up the hill (5 minute walk) but he does not show up. I decide that we will put the key and transmitter into a plastic bag and leave near the automatic gate. We then depart to make another call to the caretaker and the owner to inform of the situation with the keys.  Not great, but what else can we do. We need to move on and have now wasted an hour and a half.
1330: we're on our way back to Natal, the road is now quite familiar and we too with our tiny Fiat UNO.

Pipa beach swim with dolphins; and game day, Ghana vs USA

Monday, June 16 (Game Day: Ghana vs USA)

0930: I'm up and boiling some water to make some coffee which we hope will be a part of our morning routine and a very enjoyable way to start the day. Itinerary today is to get out to the beach during low tide (the only way out to this special beach). The special think about this beach in Pipa is that the dolphins swim into this bay and the access is blocked from our walking there by high tide. After some time on the beach we will drive the hour plus back to Natal for the first USA game versus Ghana.
1030: we're finishing up our morning logistics, applying sunscreen and are out the door and heading for the beach. A ten minute walk takes us down the beach and across a scramble of rocks to the 'dolphin bay'. It's a beautiful day with sunshine and some high clouds.
The beach here in Pipa is fantastic. A very long shallow slope with fine sand. There are some decent swells coming in and I'm surely going to do some body surfing. Hopefully the dolphins will make their appearance as anticipated and advertised. The crescent shaped bay here is lined with dozens of umbrellas, and there are a couple vendors walking the beach selling frozen treats, drinks and such.
We settle down in the middle of the beach and there are a couple of dozen people spread out over the quarter to half mile. There were several motorboats soliciting tourists as we left the main Pipa beach, and several of them have come into the small bay and departed without seeing any of the dolphins.  There are three bouys in the bay to keep the boats a good distance out and away from the swimmers and paddle boarders. After a few minutes of grilling in the sun, a couple of us go in to test the waters - it's nice. Maybe three to four foot swells make for some difficult body surfing, and the shallow beach lands one right on the bottom after a good ride. We take a couple of turns in the water with one playing sentry over our belongings, and eventually we do see a couple of dolphins near the edge of where some are swimming. AJ, Charlie and Bill are in the water not too far away, they say they got a pretty good look at 'em. Just after noon, we decide we must depart for the next phase of our game day - which is to grab a bite to eat and drive to Natal for the match.
1215: we've gone back to the cabin and done most of our preparation for game day, and head out to one of the restaurants on the main street that are showing the Germany vs Portugal game. We are excited to see how our Group of Death opponents will fare, and I am looking forward to one of my first adventures with the local cuisine.  I select shrimp curry with rice and salad. R$22. (US$10.34). The meal is fantastic, as is the game. Germany win, which is a good result for USA. Portugal have a player red carded (will miss USA game) and another injured, which will certainly help our chances next game.
1500: we're on our way to Natal, driving back thru the roads that we only saw in the darkness last night. There are fields of sugar cane and cattle. Several small villages are active, and we pass by a few jackasses - which we find quite appropriate and amusing. In our soccer circle a jackass is an affectionate term - not at all like an asshole. Halfway to Natal we stop at a Petrobras and fill the tank R$82. (US$39.). The gas here is about R$3. per liter (US5.35/gallon). There are several service attendants who jump into action to grab the key to locking gas cap, fill the tank and wash the windscreen. We don't know custom, but we give the guy a small tip. We also purchase a twelve pack of Kaiser beer and a bag of ice R$28. (US$13.). We put the beer in plastic bags and cover with ice, and continue on our way. All of the cars are very small and most of them are the most basic models. Our Fiat UNO for example has manual transmission, steering and window regulators, and of course, the car has no air conditioning. The radio is blocked, so we must resort to entertaining ourselves. We're heading back north on the BR101 at about 700 km/hr (45 mph) when all of a sudden we hit a sleeping policeman (speed bump). What a startling surprise, luckily the car survived at the guys in the back seat were strapped in or they would have hit the roof.
1630: we've arrived at a special parking lot near UFRN, which is a university campus. We find the lot busy with luxury motorcoaches filled with Ghana fans, and a few USA tour groups. They have said that the flight over to Natal was only four hours. They are in great numbers and high spirits determined to make the 'hat trick' or 3-nil, which represents both the most recent results versus USA and the scoring prowess of their main striker in one of their last qualifiers. We've taken out a dozen or so scarves and try to sell to the trickle of USA fans who pass thru the lot. Eventually we are mobbed with Ghana fans wanting to take pictures with us. Pre-game with opposing supporters is really a party atmosphere, and everyone is in high spirits on the outside, but very anxious for the match.
1700: t-minus two hours to kickoff, and we are a short walking distance from the stadium.  We decide to each grab several scarves and Charlie puts a bag of five in his cinch sack, and we head out for the game. The short walk takes us along the frontage road of BR101, and the roadside is lined with locals and several small shops selling drinks and snacks. The Ghana fans are singing and dancing. We are held at the bottom of a pedestrian overpass by security forces as a VIP convoy passes thru. We are released to cross the major road with the stadium just a few hundred yards away now.
The anticipation is building as the sun has set. We begin hawking our scarves, and it's a tough sell, but we are able to move them all. We are approached by some older English guy who inquires about buy a large quantity from us. AJ passes along his contact info and we hope we can dump the entire load, so we don't have to carry across the remaining 9,000 miles of our journey. We're in the stadium an hour before kickoff, and we find our seats high in the second deck behind where the US are warming up. Andy and my seats are just six rows apart, so I join him and keep an eye out for Pam, so we might be able to switch and the two of us watch the game together.
With thirty minutes to kickoff, we decide to venture down to the concourse and get something to eat and a beer. We find cheeseburgers R$13. (US$6.)  and a Brahma beer R$10.(US$4.75) and return to our seats as the teams are preparing to enter the field. Charlie and Bill are just one section to our right, and there are plenty of extra seats in our row, so I stay there for the game. Next to me is a Brasilian family, mother, daughter and a little boy. Mother tells me that her son is learning English, but he is a little shy. I am writing in my little black book during the game, and they are curious as to what I am taking notes about.  I tell them, that as a former referee, I like to take notes on the game which helps me to focus on the game and look back at things like injuries and substitutions.
By now you will know the result and there will be far better sources for game analysis. My only comments on the match would be: our play was not that good in the middle of the match; where did the referee get five minutes of stoppage time in second half (I had two in my book). Despite this, the celebrations in the USA supporters section upon scoring the winning goal was fantastic, and such joy after the previous gutting defeats experienced at the feet of the Ghanain team.
2100:  there is a great party atmosphere among the US supporters as we begin our walk back thru the security perimeter which is many blocks around the stadium in all directions.  We reach the pedestrian crossing and note that the main route BR101 has been closed in the southbound direction. I know that this can mean only one thing ... Vice President Joe Biden's motorcade will soon be screaming thru and on it's way to the toward the old airport and Air Force base where I had seen the distinctive tail of a US Air Force C-17 transport airplane. The fleet of US Diplomatic Service vehicles will be flown on to their next point of call.
2200: we are back in the parking lot and ready to hit the road, when Charlie dashes from the car toward a Ghana motor coach. I'm thinking, sorry Charlie, we'll never see you again as he disappears around the front of the bus and into the crowd. He returns momentarily, gleefully displaying the fruits of his trade - a Ghana scarf, in exchange for one of his. I am a bit jealous, for I had tried to obtain one in Germany, South Africa and again today to no avail.  Good on ya, Charlie.
2330: and we're back in Pipa after relatively easy navigation off the BR101 and thru the small town to find the road to Pipa. The downtown intersection is jumping, so we park the car and head into the mix for a nice cold celebratory beer. We grab a cold beer R$5 (US$2.35) from a guy on the corner with a Styrofoam\ cooler. We wander a little down the road to check out the scene and pass an old man grilling beef kabobs from a little cart. The party is limited to a single street corner of this sleepy tourist town, so we turn aroun\\d toward the action. I decide that I am hungry, and want to try one of the kabobs, so I approach the old ma\n who is seated in his chair next to his portable grill stand kiosk. He is asleep, so I get a little closer and mumble something to awaken him and indicate that I would like to buy kabob R$3 (US$1.40).  Andy and Charlie do so as well. There are no kabobs on the small charcoal grill, so I want to be sure they are cooked well. He opens up a drawer of some sort and pulls out three pre-cooked kabobs and places them on the g\rill to reheat and spread some type of marinade upon them.  They get up to a pretty good temperature, so I am hopefully that I did not make a bad decision.  Much of the meat is really pretty good, but as usual there are a few grisly bits. We carry on down the street with beer and kabob in hand.
The music from the corner music club is blasting, and there must be a hundred people dancing in the adjacent streets. Our legs are a little tired after standing and cheering for 90 minutes at the game, so we go up into an adjacent bar / cafe for another nightcap. I decide that now is the time for me to experience my first Caipirinha. I order the special Brasilian cocktail, which is made from a rum like liquor with lime and sugar . I decide upon the premium version for R$7 (US$3.29).
Lo and behold on the street below, we see our long time friend in futbol, Tanya Keith and her husband, Doug Jotske. They come and join us. We had recently seen them when our Minnesota United FC traveled to Des Moines to play their Menace (USL-PDL) in the US Open Cup. Tanya has just published her book: Passionate Soccer Love; a chronicle of her (and Doug's) journey thru twenty years of marriage and travel to World Cup Qualifiers and Finals. Now they are here celebrating their marriage, and the book with their two kids Aviva and Raphael. We enjoy some great conversations and are joined a short time later by any old friend of Charlie and Andy, Monty Rodriguez. They know him from the late 1990's and the heyday of Sam's Army (the first organized supporters group). I understand that there may be some news regarding a reorganization of this group version 2.0 in the weeks to follow the Finals here in Brasil. I hope so, and look forward to this development for the good of the game in the United States. We retire after another round of cocktails. Tomorrow, Charlie and Bill depart Pipa by local bus transport to Natal and then on to the airport for their flight to Rio where they will spend a couple of days. Andy and I will stay a little longer thru mid-day, check out of our wonderful Airbnb place, and make our way on to the Amazon where a jungle tour and match versus Portugal await. We are finally settling in to bed at 0215.
CHECK BACK LATER FOR SOME IMAGES

World Cup Brasil 2014: Day One the trip begins

World Cup Brasil 2014


Saturday, June 14 (Minneapolis > Sao Paulo)
Departure day, the anticipation several years in the making has now finally arrived.

Packing for this trip has been so easy, compared to my most recent bandy trip in the dead of winter. Aside from not needing to pack all of my referee uniform, skates, helmet, etc.; this trip will require minimal amount of clothing.

1300: depart home and stop for lunch at the Andale Taquiera Mercado - a growing tradition before any trip. A plate of Ahlambres carnitas and a couple of Tacos Al Pastor are shared between me and my mom. The taquiera is packed with local Latinos enjoying a Saturday afternoon with their friends and families.

1410: arrive at MSP to find an extraordinarily long line at the check in. No sign yet of Andy, so I get in the queue. A short time later, he arrives, and we sneak him thru to join me so we can check in together.

1530: cleared security after the body scan and full pat down. Something in/on my carry on bag set off the sensors. After an extensive search with the wipes and additional pat down I am thru and off to the gate lounge anticipating on time departure for Newark. Our United Embraer 175 is a small jet, with little overhead bin capacity. Therefore, AJ and I drop our carry on backpacks at the jetway, making the cabin a little more comfortable for us all.

2020: arrive at EWR where we have a short layover before the overnight flight to Sao Paulo. I am still trying to get myself organized with my travel documents and such with the new travel pants for this trip. Unfortunately, this second pair is slightly different with fewer zippered pockets and I am struggling to maintain my traditional organizational routine. I become nervous when I am unable to find my passport and boarding pass and begin to rifle thru my carry on. Increasingly agitated and much to AJ's chagrin, I finally realize that I have put the documents back in my money belt. Doh! I am notified by my travel partner that I have been docked one demerit. Damn! I have been trying so hard to regain my former status (scoutmaster - a moniker coined by Jim Crist a fellow traveler to the World Cup in South Africa). I lost my status after a previous debacle on route to World Cup Qualifier in Kansas City when I forgot the group tickets at home. Luckily, we were only thirty minutes down the freeway. This delay seriously cut into our chance for BBQ at Oklahoma Joe's and will follow me for years to come. All of my travel companions are now tasked with observing me as I work to regain my previous stature.

2200: we are on board and ready for departure. Dinner will be provided on board the United Boeing 767, then we'll take a sleep aid in order to arrive tomorrow morning in Brazil.


Sunday, June 15 (Sao Paulo > Natal > Pipa)
0820: we arrive at GRU a few minutes early after an uneventful flight (the best kind). We must collect our bags before we clear customs and check thru to Natal.  There is zero inspection of our luggage by security/immigration. We are happy not to have to explain our two large hockey gear bags stuffed with about 250 custom scarves that we hope to sell to the traveling USA supporters. This is an ambitious task set before us, but we must maintain our motivation to reduce the load that we have to transport across Brasil over the next couple of weeks.

We've checked in for our Azul Airlines flight to Natal and now are in search of the FIFA ticket collection center in the main terminal. The small office is easy to find, and there is a small line of traveling supporters from all around the world anxious for the tournament ahead. FIFA ticket kiosks similar (or maybe the same) as provided in South Africa work exceedingly simple. Insert the credit card that was used to purchase the tickets several months ago, and the kiosk prints each of the tickets on the spot. I am able to quickly navigate the touch screen and soon have tickets in hand.  Andy, on the other hand, had his credit card compromised in the previous couple of months and was unable to navigate the kiosk.  He then had to go into another small office where they quickly remedied the situation and we were both on our way from Terminal 1 to Terminal 4 to catch our next flight to the northeastern city of Natal where USA will play Ghana tomorrow night.

1200: we're in the small departure lounge for domestic flights. The aircraft arrive out on the tarmac where the passengers must walk out and up the stairs into the planes. Our Azul Airlines Airbus A319 arrives and we'll soon be on our way. AJ and I decline to get up and stand in line for boarding and just wait to be near the last aboard. This is OK, however, the overhead bins are full, so I have to fit my carry on under the seat in front of me. AJ squeezes his into the last remaining space overhead. This makes for a very slightly uncomfortable three plus hour flight, but it is "fique tranquilo" - brazilian vernacular roughly translated as - it's OK, no problem.  We have emblazoned this slogan upon the reverse side of our USA supporters scarves. Fique tranquilo is the mindset of USA fans upon being drawn into the Group of Death with Germany, Portugal and Ghana. I hope these scarves catch on and we are able to sell them like hot cakes both here in Brasil, at the several watch party venues in and around Minneapolis and St. Paul and via the internet store. The goal is for any profit from the sale of these scarves will be donated to the Sanneh Foundation. Tony Sanneh was the star of the 2002 World Cup in Korea/Japan where he was magnificent in the USA victory over Portugal and Luis Figo.

1600: arrive at NAT after about a three and a half hour flight. At the luggage carousel Budweiser have a small kiosk and are offering up free cans to the arriving passengers. Of course there are a couple of strikingly beautiful girls to distribute the iconic American beer. Most of the passengers are taking advantage of the free beer - shocking, I know. AJ and I both decline, as we know that we still have a long day in front of us; which includes driving our rental car to rendevoux with Pam to deliver the tickets that she purchased from us, and then continue our drive an hour down the coast to our tropical beach town of Pipa.
With our luggage collected, we head for the Avis/Budget rental car desk, where AJ has reserved our compact manual transmission vehicle (Fiat UNO). Adjacent is the currency exchange, so I wait in that line to exchange our greenbacks (US$) for the Brazial Reais (R$).  The exchange rate is 2.12 to buy and 2.34 to sell. Therefore when we convert the cost in Brasilian Reais to the dollar it is just about half (0.47).
It is winter time now in Brasil, and the sun has set about 1700, so we are off in our little car to try to exchange tickets at the US Soccer Fan Party in Natal. We begin navigating into the city, but encounter an unexpected roundabout just a kilometer outside the airport and no indication of the highway we are looking for. As it turns out, this new airport opened only 15 days ago, and my Google Map has incorrectly published directions. We return to the airport to get a map from the rental agency and continue on our way in search of the night before party in the city of Natal. We have no idea what is in store for us as we begin to navigate the dark streets of this major urban city.
AJ is behind the wheel of our Fiat, the hatch back trunk is full with one gear bag of scarves, the rear seats are both full with my Kosa bandy gear bag plus our two carry on packs. There is no way that the four of us would be able to travel in this car with all of our luggage. As I said, the streets are dark and traffic is heavy as we begin our trip into Natal from the new airport. Signage is exceedingly difficult to read and street signs are almost non-existent.
We are able to make our way into the middle of the town, but get turned around several times as we try to find streets to correspond with our tourist street map. After at least an hour, we are ready to give up on finding the party spot (and also understand from a mis-informed US fan at the airport that the party has been cancelled due to flooding). I break out my US phone, and make what will surely be an expensive phone call to let Pam know that we are giving up on trying to meet up for delivery of tickets tonight. After leaving a message on her phone, I receive a text indicating that the party is ON.

Andy and I are now quite hungry not having eaten anything except a small granola bar since breakfast. We pass a very brighly lit restaurant, Habib's, and I decide that we need to stop here, relax, eat and re-adjust our mindset before continuing on. I leave AJ with the car, for one of the doors will not lock and go inside and get some dinner for us. Two burger meals with fries and small Coca-Cola cost R$28 (US$13). We sit in the car and decompress a bit.

We decide to give it one more go after further study of the dodgy roadmap and I am confident that we can find our way to the US Soccer fan party.  We set out again, and are able to find the major road that we need. Since it is pitch black outside, it is hard to orient to major landmarks, buildings or direction. Eventually, we find Avenue Ayrton Senna (named for famous Formula 1 racing driver), and from here I have confidence that I can navigate us to the venue. We make one wrong turn, but again, I have confidence that we will recover and soon be on the highway BR101 and locate the party.  Sure enough we pass a street near the destination, and there is a long line of taxi cabs dropping off/picking up US supporters. With Pam's tickets in hand, I leave AJ in the car and head into the temporary nightclub set up by US Soccer. I fear what I know to be the situation at these events - a mass of drunk guys and blaring music.  I have told Pam that I will chirp out my bird whistle to help her find me - and I am afraid this will be to no avail in the rising din blaring from the PA system. I do not know Pam, but she sent me a photo of her and her friend Sarah. I study the photo for a moment after passing security and presenting my RSVP and steady myself for what I told AJ was going to be a very brief attempt at the exchange. To my surprise, there is a gal with glasses similar to Pam standing near the entrance, and I approach her. She, too, has been given photo of me and we make eye contact and I ask if her name is Pam. She brightens her smile and gives me a hug. I deliver to her the tickets that she and her friends bought from our crew in the nice FIFA package and am back out of the venue to the waiting car. JOY! We were ready to give up on being able to make contact and were dreading having to wait and waste part of the next game day trying to pass off the tickets.

2200: back on the road after barging thru the long line of taxicabs, we make our 'retourno' (U-turn) on the BR101 highway and begin heading south to Pipa where we still have to meet up with Charlie and Bill. Several hours ago, we were able to make another very expensive phone call to Bill who said that he and Charlie were in downtown Pipa watching the game and would be awaiting our arrival.  With at least an hour drive ahead of us (navigation willing) I was beginning to think that we would never be able to find our little BnB in the tourist paradise of Pipa.

2300: we are approaching Pipa and the signage is dodgy. We have some written instructions indicating to follow the route toward Ares, which entails another retourno on BR101 (main highway). As we are approaching the exit a police vehicle is coming up from behind with it's flashing lights on, so I pull to the left (wrong) side of the road and slow down to let pass. The cop car slows and rolls down the window as the four officers inside give us 'gringos' a good look over. They proceed and exit just ahead - the same one that we are too take. As we are preparing to take the roundabout back toward the Pipa exit, we see an arrow toward Ares, so we continue around the circle.  As it happens there are five or six police/military vehicles with their lights flashing, the road blocked with cones, automatic weapons and a group of locals cordoned off on the side of the road next to a sugar cane field.  I pull up with a smile - how bad can this turn out, I think.

Of course, there is nobody who speaks a word of english, we neither do we their Portugese. I point to my map and indicate we are traveling to Pipa. They see the map and think we are going back to Natal. A short exchange later after having pulled one of the local perps aside to attempt at translation, they understand that we are headed for Pipa and that we should follow one of them who will guide us.  So here we are, heading back south on BR101 toward Pipa in the middle of the night and following a police car with it's lights flashing.  A precious moment indeed that AJ captures with a video snippet and humorous commentary.
<INSERT VIDEO HERE>

After about five minutes we exit the highway, take a frontage road for about a mile before making the 'retuouro' at an underpass and head back into this small town. We follow the flashing lights thru the narrow streets surprisingly congested with pedestrians at almost midnight on a Sunday. Eventually we are thru this small town and out on a rural road with our police escort. Another five or so minutes down the road the police car pulls to the side of the road and beckons us to approach - they have guided us far enough along the way, and we can take it from here ... we think and hope so. The signs to the tourist beach town of Pipa are relatively well marked and we continue along passing many small villages where there are people out and about now well after midnight which we find quite strange.
We continue winding our way thru this narrow two lane road with no shoulder and speed bumps at every village until we end up passing a resort with a entry all light up. I decide to go in and ask for directions. There is a flight crew just preparing to depart for their next trip which is an indication that it is indeed well into the middle of the night. We are told to continue along the road which will lead directly in to Pipa.

Eventually, we arrive in Pipa and it is a ghost town or so it appears, and we assume that Bill and Charlie will have left the bar where they were watching the game, and I thought we'd be sleeping on the beach until morning. But to my surprise, we come down the main street which is completely closed for the night to find a massive street party where I have to slow to a crawl and eventually stop or risk running over one of the drunk soccer fans staggering/dancing to the blaring music. All of a sudden, we hear someone yell, ANDY!  It's Charlie and Bill sitting up in a bar looking out over the spectacle.  Charlie comes running down, gives Andy a hug thru the window and then does his best Starsky and Hutch slide/roll across the hood of the car and tumbles across and onto the cobblestones. He bounces right up and comes over to me, boy am I glad to see him!

1230: I work my way thru the crowd of people who are cheek to jowl in the street around the corner and up the steep hill around the corner to park. The guys pay their bill, and we somehow cram us all into the tiny Fiat and head for our little cabin.  Quickly we unload, and AJ and I are in desperate need of a cold beer to take the edge off of what has been a very long day and a half of travel. We enjoy a couple of local Skol beers R$5 (US$2.35). As we are sitting and enjoying the street party below full of US and Argentine fans, there approaches a small troupe of musical performers wearing matching red sequined clad track suits with "Home Team" printed on the shoulders. They are a bunch of US fans strumming a pair of ukuleles, beating out rhythms on washboard and singing a wonderful little ditty that goes like this: "Estados Unidos, Beat Ghana"
<INSERT BILL'S VIDEO HERE>

Our traveling squad of 1st Minnesota Volunteers are now all together and we are beginning to relax. We have another round of beers before walking back to our place and settling in for bed at about 0230.

Day four of our World Cup Brasil 2014, and we have finally obtained web access at an internet cafe.  Technology has not been easy at all during our trip so far, so I am currently unable to transfer any of my running text to the blog.
Flights have all gone exceedingly well so far, and we have been in the beautiful town of Pipa an hour south of Natal.

Last night was Ghana vs USA and on the third try the Yanks finally won.  It was not a pretty game, but it sets up the team in a good position in Group D

Today, Charlie and Bill have departed for Rio; Andy and I will check out of the BnB and drive up to Ponta Negra in Natal for the night, then fly to Manaus (Amazon) tomorrow.

More later.