Historic Inaugural C-Pool Competition

Tuesday, January 31st - Historic Inaugural C-Pool Competition

This morning was the first C-Pool game in the World Bandy Championships, and included the first competiton for the Japanese Bandy Federation. Indeed a great day for the bandy family. The match was played under clearer air, but with some light snow falling at the Central Stadium. 

First Course: breakfast, lunch or dinner?

The 9:30 start time, meant an early rise for breakfast for our crew, which included my USA Assistant Referee team mate, Eric and Head Referee from Sweden, Hokan (sic). The temperature was quite nice just about freezing with very little wind or smog.

The game was going very well, although there were deep powdery snow drifts at both end lines. This left very little room for Eric and I to navigate for our duties, which often takes us into positions beyond the goal line.  At one point, Eric was pressed deep beyond the end line by the run of play, and backed right into the snow bank, "ass over happy feet", displacing a large cloud of fluffy snow. At one point, all that could be seen was his black helmet sticking up from the drift. It was all we could do to keep from falling down in laughter. Eric the snowman.

Well, the game continued of course, and the first half was dominated by the Estonian team. The second half began and in the first minute, Japan was awarded a penalty shot, much to the enjoyment of the Japanese contingent. The shot was converted marking a historic moment for their Federation. The ball was collected by the team captain, and presented to the team leaders. The result was never going to be in doubt, however, Japan scored again later in the second half on a beautiful shot from a corner stroke into the upper corner. The celebrations began again in earnest, despite the inevitable result forthcoming.

At the end of the day; nothing can curb the Japanese enjoyment of the moment

Referee Team Sjosten

Return to hotel for a quick change of clothes in preparation for 4th official duty for the next game at Central Stadium, Netherlands vs Canada. I wear my new valenki traditional wool felt boots, and draw comments from volunteers to the security platoon. The game is never in doubt as the Canadians roll to 11-1 victory.

Office foyer at the National Stadium (Central)

Back at the hotel after the match, the fog gives way to relatively clear view of the Tang Shan mountain range to the south of the city, and the late afternoon sun shining on the gold ornaments at the Church in the Park of 28 Heros across the street. I truely hope that we can get a clear view of the whole range towering over the city of Almaty to the south.

Golden sunset over mountain peaks and Cathedral in Park for 28 Heros

A leisurely afternoon in the hotel room is a nice break, and I look forward to watching Sweden vs Kazakhstan on the television tonight, then late dinner before our 22:30 nightly meeting to review the days games, and receive our next assignments. 

At our meeting, we begin with a short video showing the historic start to the Group C play, followed by the video captured of team mate, Eric, falling backwards into the snow drift ... this is met with howls of laughter by all, and brought tears to my eyes. Eric took it in stride, and stood to recieve his applause.

Meeting ends at 23:40 bringing another long day to an end. Tomorrow brings another Group C game, featuring another first time country, Kirgistan. I get to work with one of the top Finish Head Referees as they face Estonia.

B-Pool play begins

Monday, January 30th - B-Pool play begins
While up late, sleep was interrupted by some noisy upstairs neighbors, but still was sharp for the days morning match. Typical breakfast plus a bowl of porridge with some diced apples, raisins and walnuts.
Met Russian referee team mates in lobby at 10:00 for the police escorted mini-bus ride to the Central Stadium and the start of Group B play. The bandy rink is set up on the practice field next to the soccer stadium. Four portable refrigeration units have been set up to feed the coils under the rink. The ice is quite fast, but there are a couple of lumpy bits, and one corner has a slight bump.  All in all, the venue is a very nice urban setting with some relatively new residential high rises towering a few blocks away.

 Security Cordon at the perimeter of the bandy rink

 Additional police presence and view of the massive cantilever support for the soccer stadium canopy

The long walk from locker room to the rink (with skate guards on)

 The smog is still thick enough to cut with a knife as the workday traffic contributes quite an inversion, similar to what Salt Lake City might experience - nestled right at the foot of the mountains. This morning, I could make out the television tower and the snow covered peaks thru the haze, but by the time we left for the match, they were completely obscured. I am glad the temperature is reasonable (just below freezing).
The tournament is using mixed referee crews, and I am the only American among three other Russians, so communication by the two-way radios will be impossible for me to understand. No matter, for our game is controlled by a system for control, and by making constant eye contact with my head referee, we are able to do a good job of controlling the game. The game features the Netherlands versus Latvia with many of the players coming from hockey background. This resulted in seven penalties (70 minutes) in the first half. The referee made correct decisions in all situations, and the players responded. There were zero penalties in the second forty-five minutes. The run of play seemed much closer than the scoreline, as the Dutch won by quite a large margin. A very nice Russian referee tradition that I was exposed to was that just before going out to the rink, the whole crew take a seat and have a moment of silent contemplation. This is something that I believe is quite nice and beneficial for the crew as a whole. This is also done before going out for the second half.
Post-game, we found the oppulent referee room quite crowded, as the crew for the next game had arrived and begun their preparation. Therefore, we did not go thru our assessment with the match delegate. We plan to review our match at the hotel after lunch (which has become an identical buffet - difficult to determine whether it is lunch or dinner time). Lunch is complete at 15:00 and I retire to my room (USA ref teammates have game at Central stadium). I draw myself a hot bath, and begin a soak and use the time to do some washing of the tech undershirts for use tomorrow. After the hot tub, I decide to put on the slippers (and underwear) and step out on the frigid balcony ... what a great way to finish off soak.
Eric has heard of a grocery market a few blocks to the east, so we head out to find some more malty provisions. As these trips evolve, it seems that each day we find better and better grocery shopping. Today, we find a store with a distinct German flavor. It is complete with a small kiosk with a woman filling bottles with fresh tap beer (Fifth-Ocean.com). I decide on a one liter bottle for T560 (US$3.75) and a couple of local beers. We also get a box of muselix bars, for there will be some full bandy days with out access to our hotel lunch.
With a long day of bandy tomorrow, I decide to stay in hotel room and watch USA vs Kazakhstan on the television. It is quite nice to watch our game on TV, a luxury that comes at times very few and far between. The weather has turned a bit, and there is a beautiful snowfall at the Medeu Stadium. After the match (21:00) I head for the banquet room for dinner, and begin to write todays blog entry. Soon, however, I am joined by the Finish referee crew, and we enjoy some cammeraderie and conversation.
Dinner time flys by and soon we must break for the evenings meeting begins at 22:30. The days games are all reviewed in the conference room that is full with twenty two referees, and five supervisors. Each game is reviewed by the Supervisor with comments that the rest of us can take some education. Even as these refrees are the best in the world, we can all learn something after each and every game (and some of us, more so than others). The assignments for the day after next are indicated, whih takes us thru Thursday matches and the run up to the Semi-Finals and Qualification games between the groups.

Kazakh icon: hunting by eagle

Up close and personal with a huge eagle at the top of the Medeu dam and reservoir. Amazing bird of prey.

Match Day 1, A-Pool

Sunday, January 29, 2012 - Match Day 1, A-Pool
Up at 08:00, and shave for breakfast before referee meeting at 09:00. Regular fare at the banquet room, and I opt for immediate cup of instant coffee (yes, indeed). Quartered tomatoes, cucumbers and a slice of bread with meat and cheese are the starter plate. A second plate includes some sausage (more like soft hot dog, terrible), fried potatoes w/ onion, a fried egg, and a couple of pancakes - one with meat and the other with cheese. Of course, no meal in Almaty can not go with out a glass or two of apple juice. The name of this city means: full of apples. Not sure where they come from at this time of year.
Quick meeting at 09:00 is led by FIB Director of the Rules and Referee Committee from Sweden, who, along with the other Swedish referees and Match Delegate have finally arrived after delay in Istanbul (also of note, USA Player from the elite Swedish division, traveling on same flights arrived w/o his skates - a big blog for the USA team). At the meeting we quickly review the points of emphasis for this tournament: mixing of referee teams from different countries; focus and directives; review of match protocol; and finally what we have all been waiting for - the first match days assignments. The A-Pool begins today with three games, and the B- and C-Pool play begins on Monday. Referees from USA are assigned games on Monday and Tuesday. My first assignment is at 11:30 working the assignment with Russian Head Referee (HR) as Assistant Referee 1 (AR1), and additonal Russian Assistant, Fourth Official (4th) and Match Delegate. My second day assignments include the  09:30 match as AR1 with Swedish HR and USA teammate as AR2. A second match for the day will follow with the third match of the day at the Central Stadium as 4th official.
Assignments in hand, we retire to our rooms and prepare for our day on the town before heading to the Medeo Stadium high in the mountain for the Opening Ceremony and the three games to open the A-Pool. Our plan is to immediately hit the Green Market (baazar) to experience life in this city at first hand on the traditional shopping day. I am insearch of a replacement pair of valenki (the traditonal felt wool boot) and generally experiencing the full sights, sounds and smells. We are not disappointed, for after wandering thru the many aisles filled with small stalls selling everything that one could imaging, we enter the large open area where there are vendors butchering all kinds of meat, all types of vegetables, spices, and cheeses. Luckily, Kevin gets some photos before we are dramatically informed that photos/video are forbidden. As I did not bring my calculator, I find a vendor with some for sale, and purchase a small solar model for T300 ($2.) which is most helpful in bargining with the vendors, and numbers are the bottom line and need no language in translation. Eventually, we have explored the entire first floor of the market, and we decend a flight of stairs to the oen air area, where I finally find a pair of valenki with rubber sole (the only ones I had seen all morning). So I inquire as to the price T7500 about US$50. This particular pair is obviously much too big, so I punch into the calculator, my Euro size of shoe. The woman running the stall goes off and returns in a minute with my size (more or less). I am given a thick felt insole and try on for fit ... it's still too big, so she grabs a pair of thick wool socks (which I had also been cautiously eyeing). I ask how much for the socks, T800 (US$5.33) and proceed to try on the ensemble. They fit OK, but I don't appear too impressed, as the bargining dance begins. I offer T7000 for the whole set, nyet is the reply, so I give the calculator to the shop keeper and await the counter offer. We go back and forth with my final offer of T7200 (US$48.) accepted.
We carry on and plan to depart back to hotel and continue our exploration of Almaty and the Park of the 28 Heros. We have plenty of time, and Eric suggests we begin part of the walking tour from his guide book which includes the high end stores, and Almaty's version of their Arbat (open boulevard) with street vendors. A real nice walk about, and we encounter Kevin's favorite the street artists paintings. We see many paintings of traditional Kazakh scenes including horses, camels, yurts, mountains and falconry. As we did in Moscow several years ago, we walk back and forth between several vendors inquiring about prices, and surveying our favorites. Eventually, we begin to negotiate with an old woman who obviously has paid a specific amount to the artist and will not budge below a certain point (she needs and deserves T500, US$3.33) for what ever we purchase. I decide that, I, too would like a painting, and we begin to renegotiate a two for one deal. We go back and forth a little, and what started at T4000, ends at two for T7250 (US$48.) We all walk away happy, and Kevin even gets a photo of the gold and gapped tooth old woman. Time is beginning to run short for us to work our way across town to catch city bus up the mountain valley to the Medeo (valley of honey) Stadium.
We make another stop at the hotel to drop the paintings, and decide to get lunch at the banquet room and ride the transport with the referee crew to the stadium.
Upon arrival, the ceremony is underway, and we opt to immediately walk up toward the gravity dam that rises 2000 meters above the stadium in the steep mountain valley. We have driven out of the smog  bound city into the crisp clean air of the mountain, and the temperature is hovering right around freezing 0C (32F) in bright sunshine. Our trek begins, and we first unzip our quilted parkas and remove the gloves. Eventually the steep road reaches the base of the earthen dam, and massive flights of stairs reach into the sky. At each of the three terraced levels of the dam there are security officers standing at 10 meter intervals on an isulated pad.

They are obviously guarding the structure from sabotage. It takes us at least an hour to climb at least 800 steps to the top. We stop at several points to take photographs, panorama and video of the majestic scenes both below the dam, and toward the reservoir and the mountains high above. As we are enjoying the views a local approaches with a giant eagle on his arm. Eagle and Falconry are a historic activity for the Kazahks and others in these Asiatic lands. Immediately, I am astounded and intrigued as he offers to let me hold the eagle on my arm. I am give a thick leather glove, and the bird is transfered.

We decend and catch the end of the first game, Sweden vs Finland. Sweden win decisively. Team USA play Russia in the second match, and we look forward to showing our countrymen some support in their task at hand versus one of the two best teams in the world. Russia win handlily, however, Team USA score three VERY nice goals. The final game of the evening features the host country versus Norway, what has generally been a game between teams ranked  four and five in the group. The host, bouyed by their home support win by a large margin. A group of ten referees depart the game part way thru the second half so we may return to hotel for dinner, before our 23:00 meeting to review the days matches.
Obviously, I am still battling the time zones while writing this travelblog, and will retire in a few minutes before my first game, tomorrow morning.

Saturday, Januray 28th - Hotel Otar
Awoke at 08:30 still waiting for the time change to catch up with me. Down to the lobby for breakfast, which is the first meal at hotel. Often the food is one of the most memorable parts of these trips. It looks like this food will be good, and not the focus of our attention. I start with plate of bread, meat and cheese, and some noodle salad. Then I go for some of the hot dishes, which includes an entree with some type of scrambled egg, cooked stiff and cut in rectangular shapes. There is also some oatmeal which looks like gruel (will have to try that tomorrow).
Up to the room for a quick nap before meeting and classwork to begin. We begin meeting, and find that the Swedish referees and supervisors have been delayed in Istanbul by a massive snowstorm. This leaves the meeting with three Russian teams, the Fins, Norwegians and ourselves. We continue with the discussion of the new rules for this year, and points of emphasis for the tournament.
The afternoon concludes with rules test, and then we're off to prepare for the skating test at the Medeo Stadium, the venue for the A-pool games is at an altitude of one mile, so we can expect difficult conditions. Temperature is -15 C (-1 F) with a stiff wind. Team USA are just beginning practice upon our arrival, so we have about an hour to prepare, and get warmed up. Once on the rink, we find the ice is cracking in places, and the grounds crew are making patches as the zamboni resurfaces the rink. Located in a steep valley, with a ski lift gondola rising high above makes this venue one of the most beautiful that I have seen. After a good warmup, the six head referees make their 3000 meter skate achieving their goal of 6 minutes. The remaining twelve assistant referees are next, and we encounter ice conditions that are quite dodgy, however we all to make our goal. Next skating test is the agility test set out skate forward then backward thru a course of cones set 40 meters apart. Again, all the referees meet the standards. The physical activity is quite demanding, and the lungs are burning due to the high altitude and thick air.
We return to hotel about 21:30, and are ready for dinner. A plate of hot food is very nice and includes some baked fish, and noodles. I go back for a bowl of hot soup.
After dinner, Kevin, Eric and I walk about in search of some beer. The hotel bar had some Heineken for 650T $4.40. We find a kiosk where we get four Baltica 7 for 740T ($4.95), we continue our walk back to hotel and find a bottle shop where we get four local beers for 560T ($4.40), and Kevin gets a liter of Coke for 400T ($2.70). We're finally back to hotel to settle in for some evening entertainment, which includes our own commentary of badly dubbed movies. And the refrigerator is well stocked for the weekend. Tomorrow we start with meeting at 09:00, we may be able to visit the bazaar on market day, which should be an interesting experience.

Day 2: arrival in Almaty, Kazakhsta

I am able to nod off for a little while, listening to LUthansa's in flight entertainment - a relaxation station. I awake, and get a dinner of mac and cheese (all that remained available). After eating, I try again to get some rest thru this six hour flight.
An hour before landing, the cabin lights come on and a meat and cheese sandwich is served. It is just after midnight at our destination (noon in MSP). We land to silence ... rather strange, for the Russian trips were always finished with a raucous round of applause. We are greeted in the arrival lounge by tournament volunteers dressed in their red parkas and pants. The wrangle the luggage for us. Our referee team must now separate ourselves from the players for the week, and we are driven in a small mini-bus to our hotel. We finally arrive at our hotel at 02:15.

I unpack and organize my gear in the room until about 04:00 and finally hit the hay. Tomorrow we have classroom study, meetings and testing from 13:00 thru the day until we finally have our skating fitness testing at 21:30.

Day 1: Travel MSP>ORD>FRA

Bandy World Championships
Almaty, Kazakhstan

26 January, 2012
11:45 depart to Subaru dealer to drop car for recall and windshield replacement while away; plenty of time to get to MSP by 13:00 for group check-in. Arrived at MSP at 12:20, only to find most of the players there ... apparently they had moved the check-in time, but neglected to inform the referee team.
Flight delayed, but no worries aobut connection in Chicago O'Hare (ORD).
Airbus 320 arrives from Denver and they herd us quickly onto the plane, and we're airborne at 16:00, and I'm back into the rules book.
18:00 and we're boarding the plane at ORD, bound for FRA (Frankfurt) on a Boeing 777-200. Seated next to Nick, Brother-in-Law of Papa Joe Warren (soccer teams goalkeeper);we've got to get Joe into playing bandy. Full flight with a few middle seats remaining near the back of the plane. At 19:00 we're pushed back from the gate, and we taxi and wait until 19:35 for take-off. Flight time is indicated to be 7hrs 42min.
I break out the rules book again, and study until the dinner service. After dinner, I begin the movie 'The Debt' and settle in to my middle seat. Finally, with five hours remaining, I decide to  take the sleep aid and get four good hours of sleep. Awake over England to the sunrise on the eastern horizon which begins with a nice pink glow. Breakfast service has begun, and we enjoy a cup of bery yogurt and an apple (sort of) turnover, which is quite dry. Two cups of coffee and a glass of water finish off the meal, accompanied by the Botswana episode of Top Gear (can't get enough of those guys and their jackassery).
As we've touched down and braking on the runway, the countdown timer signals the 7:42 flight time ... amazing how accurate the navigation is for such a long distance. Local time 10:15 Fri. Jan 27 (03:15 Central time).

Friday, January 27th: Frankfurt Airport
The plane is wheels stop just short of the jetway at 10:35, and we deplane by the rear door down stairs to awaiting articulated busses. Construction abounds at FRA Terminal 1 with construction of additional jetways for the multi-level Airbus A380. As our bus takes us around the tarmak, there is an amazing structure housing a Lufthansa hanger. We arrive at another termial for transfer to Lufthansa from our United flight at 11:00 where we get our new boarding passes. This process takes thirty minutes, and we're then off to clear security at 11:35. There is no waiting, so this goes quite smoothly. Kevin, however, is taken into a security office to  rifle thru his carry on bag.
We get to our gate for 13:10 boarding but decide to carry on to another lounge that has clear view of the flight line. Unfortunately the Camel Smoking Zone does not have fully negative air pressure, and the smoke lingers in the air. It is amazing how sensitive we have all become, now that smoking is not allowed in public places.
No free wireless, so I update this travelog, and return to study the rules book, and await boarding, just over an hour from now.

Dark Clouds over Ft. Lauderdale: NASL Championship 2011

NASL Championship Final, 2nd Leg (1-3, advantage Minnesota Stars over the Ft. Lauderdale Strikers

Awoke to radio clock at 07:02, lay in bed with anticipation and noting the condensation on the windows due to the atumnal frost … lulling back to sleep awaiting the claxon alarm number two due in another fifteen minutes.
The national news gives way to Minnesota Public Radio's hourly news, and I am startled to hear the words NSC Minnesota Stars, and the NASL over the local media airwaves. Wait … what did I hear? Actual and correct facts about tonight's 2nd leg of the new NASL Championship Final to be played in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.  Wait …what? ….  again, this is  an interview with another friend, Brian (Inside MinnesotaSoccer).  Short but sweet mention of the biggest game in our local professional soccer history since 1999 when the Minnesota Thunder defeated the Rochester Rhinos to win the A-League Championship (one level below Major League Soccer).
Well, now, I'm fully awake and the adrenaline and corpuscles are chasing each other.  Roll out of bed, and into the kitchen to start a couple cups of coffee, then into the shower and shave.
Grab the horn case and backback, and I'm out the door to the LRT park and ride ramp by the Mall of America.
The journey has begun. I love travel day, generally I am so wound up the days and hours before that I can not sleep. But this last week, with the team up by two goals going into the second leg of the championship, I have been very calm.  Compared to last week, when I was 'mental' the whole week. It has been a strange calm, which I trust has encompassed not only me, but the rest of the Stars players, front office and fanatico.
08:30 +/- and I'm at the station. Tee-minus one hour until departure.
08:34 at the 24th Street station, wrangle my gear; pockets emptied, bags readied for the dash thru ticketing kisosk, and security. Preparation and experience of traveling makes the process a breeze – compared to so many others in today's traveling public.
08:40 and the TSA agents getting on at the Humphrey Terminal 2 give me the once over, most likely due to to my jackass hat and scarf streaming from my backpack. Low threat, I am.
08:44 and the LRT has arrived at the MSP Lindberg Terminal 1, up the stairs and escalator, the a short tram to the land side of the airport.
09:02 and I have arrived at Gate 14 to the welcomes from my fellow traveling companions:  AJ, KJ and Chris (plus Coach Lagos wife, Amy).
Your local professional soccer team battled their way into the final playoff position after a brief poor run of form in the last quarter of the season. Sixth place earned an away game against third place FC Tampa Bay (Rowdies).
1st leg was last Saturday night at the National Sports Center in Blaine, where the Stars won by a score of 3-1.

My friend Bruce (duNordFutbol) said many years ago that soccer in America is the game of the internet, so we fans have become accustomed to zero media marketing or mentioning from newspaper, radio or TV establishments. It is thru the internet that soccer fans of any stripe access news of the game that we love.
AJ and I are lucky on the plane, for he grabbed a window seat online earlier, and I'm on the aisle with an empty middle seat. The plane is almost full with a sprinkling of open seats.
Pushed back from the gate on time at 09:35, and waited for the de-icing rig before we can taxi from the gate and take-off. Just minutes before zero ten hundred, our Delta, Airbus A-320 SR is wheels up and we're on our way to Florida. Three and a half hours flight time
35K feet at 10:30, and  AJ's got his electronic gadgets at work all set up with the wifi network, and streaming live to his FB and twitter accounts. Other Dark Clouds will be picking up his chanel and sending it viral.

14:06 and we've touched down in Florida.

Shuttle bus to the car rental.

Anthony and Andy arrive via AirTran and Atlanta, and we're off in our rental mini-van.

16:00 and we're checked in to hotel, and ready to head to the stadium.  I am hungry and thirsty for some Surly.  Apparently there is good eats about 5-10 minutes walk to the fishing pier, but don't think we've the luxury of time.

16:30, and we've decided (or maybe I decided) to head down the road toward the Fishing pier.
Aruba Cafe is the destination, and I have a Mahi Mahi Sandwich … mmm, just what I was looking for to kick off this epic road trip.  It is always most difficult to make decisions when traveling as a group, and I always like to know the big picture as far as the logistication. There were several groups of our traveling supporters, and our flights were the latest in this afternoon, so we really needed to eat.

Finished dinner, and we now are all with full bellies, and on our way to the Lockhart Stadium, and it is raining (again). Nice short drive of maybe ten minutes, and we are parked near the pre-game tailgate party. The rain is coming down again, looks like we're in for a rain game – the best.

Upon arrival , we find that there are about a dozen food trucks set up in the parking lot. Could have saved us some time, but with the rain, the pre-game festivies  have been dampened, with most people huddled under pop-up canopies.

Soon, we are heading into the stadium to set up our flags and banners in our assigned corner for the visiting fans. One new banner is especially brilliant:  Occupy Ft. Lauderdale. The image is of the old man from 'Family Guy'.  There were people stopping to take photos all game long.

A slight drizzle continues as we are all  set up and the Stars come out to begin warm up. We, the supporters begin our pre-game warm up as well with some song and chants as well. One of the pleasures of traveling to games, is that generally, we plan to enter the stadium early.

First out for warm ups are the goalies and Coach Carl. Joe and Matt are each going thru their pre-game so that they are all ready when the rest of the field players.

The traveling supporters section includes sixteen plus several family members. Other families are 'sequestered' into the opposite corner of the field.  The security is quite militant about moving between one part of the stadium and other sections. It seems as though they should have provided better VIP seating for the parents of the players, or other important club staff.

Awoke at 0800 this morning, just before the watch alarm went off. Quick shower and I'm ready to update this travelog. The throat is quite sore, and the voice is dodgy from the events of last night (ninety minutes of singing and cheering for your NSC MN Stars.

Sitting on the couch in the hotel room and a see an osprey soaring up the beach, just above our roof top, couldn't have been more that 100 feet away, very cool to watch it riding the steady wind coming in from the Atlantic.

Since I awoke before the alams went off, a quick shower and I'll be ready to make a walk down the beach. The wind is steady in from the Northeast, and there are good waves crashing on the sandy shore. Early Sunday morning, and there are very few people on the beach, a couple wandering and a few others running.

Teresa and I make a few quick calls/txt messages to the remaining traveling menagerie. Pity those who were booked for zero six hundred departures, for it was near   2 AM when we returned from the post-match celebrations.

With no contact made to our remianing comrades, I suggest that we walk the 10-15 minutes down the beach, and find a place to get a cup of joe. We are met at the beach by a young para-surfer who has his para-sail  in the stiff breeze, and is walking his board toward the surf. Ingenuity and athletecism is amazing in what can be developed for recreation. The guy is speeding across the waves.

Return text messages begin flooding in, and AJ and Jeremy are going to be walking down the beach to meet us. We've got just under an hour before we must depart for the Ft. Lauderdale and Miami airports. Luckily we have several people with transport, so the logistics have worked out well.

Jeremy's Crown Vic was a great way to ge to the airport for the journey home. Teresa is dropped off for her AirTran departure, and AJ and I stayed in the back seat for the true limo drop off by Jeremy at the Delta terminal.

Cubano sandwich at the airport; AJ w/ wait for flight, no coffee, more water in gate lounge.
Flight on Airbus A320 to CGB (Cincinati, Ohio) about 2 hours, uneventful, with tomato juice.

Layover at CGB, where it was nice and quiet; AJ cat napped for a short spell before we

My domesticated animal almost killed me upon my return, by leaving a sweatshirt half drug up the stairs

Kazan 2011: World Bandy Championships

Friday, 21, January 2011(Bloomington, Minnesota, USA)

Awoke this morning at 06:35  in order to catch the bus at 07:30. Bandy Team USA will be meeting at the MSP airport at 08:00, and I plan to travel by bus to the Light Rail Train station. Last night has been one of the coldest days of the year, and the air temperature is -14 F. Similar temperatures await us in Kazan, but only for tomorrow, the rest of the week is forecast to be in the teens above zero with a chance of snow daily. I've decided NOT to bring my coffee filter with me, so there will be no tales of Neal's UP coffee for this trip. I hope that the hotel has good java, and my referee team mates, Kevin and Eric are not coffee drinkers.
Quick shower and shave, then my ritual cup of coffee with bowl muselix ... the cat gets the last tablespoon of flavored milk. Dressed in my suit coat and slacks, I put on my quilted FIB overcoat and pants and head out the door to the bus stop at 7:27. The air is crisp, and the bus almost passes me by as I approach the stop, just a few meters from the apartment house. Good timing, as I really don't want to spend much time waiting. I am at the LRT station by 07:46.  The 7:50 LRT arrives, and I am in the Lindberg terminal at 7:59, where there are a few players already checking in at the group counter.
After check-in we are directed away from the hoards at the main security back down to the lower level, and to the skyway security, where there is basically no line. The skyway leads directly to the gate G-17. It looks quite cold on the flight line as our Boeing 757 pulls up to the gate and the workers are all bundled up. Uneventful flight arrives in Atlanta  and temperature of 38 F.
Short layover at ATL before boarding our B-767 for Moscow (SVO).  I stay awake for the meal of chicken, rice and vegetable before taking the sleep-aid with a Heineken. I'm able to get a little sleep before being awaken an hour and a half before landing, when breakfast is served (banana and an egg filled pastry). Strange custom in Russia upon landing, the cabin passengers break into applause.  This happens each and every time, and for me is a little disconcerting.

Saturday, 22, January 2011 (Moscow, Russia)

All of the team luggage has arrived, except for one bag, and of course, it belongs to John H. Several of the bags did not arrive in 2008, and John's was one of them. I'm sure it'll start off his VM on the wrong foot.  In 2008, it was my first VM, and our Team USA REF had just been invited back after several years away. The International Bandy Federation (FIB) wanted to see each of us work games with veteran referees before putting us on a game together. So John and I were scheduled to assist a game at the Luzniki outdoor rink with a Swedish Referee. Unfortunately, John's skates did not arrive, so I had to work the game with two Swedes. My game went very well, but unforturnately for John the tournament only got worse.
Upon our exiting luggage claim we were met by our Moscow tour guide/translator, who will make arrangements for our five hour lay over. We head for the Hippo Restaurant/Lounge for a meal. All three of us referees have the salmon, which is pretty good if a bit dry and boney.  We've still got several hours, so we head for the gate, but are unable to check-in this early. The Finland bandy team and referees are also arriving, so we greet our Finbandy referee friends, and the Tournament Referee Director. Then we retire to the seating lounge and try to get some rest. The local time is 14:00, but back home it is 05:00. Jet lag is creeping in.
Third leg of this journey, and my backpack was thouroughly searched for the first time ... something looked awry to the security gal looking at the scan. We opened it up and looked through it all but never found what they may have been looking for ... sent it back thru the scanner, and now it's OK.  We're all now waiting in the lower level, where a bus will take us out to the Tartarstan B-737 which awaits us out on the tarmak.
The Canadians' Swedish coaches  have just arrived, to join Team USA and the Fins on the flight to Kazan.  It looks cold out on the tarmak. We board in 15 minutes as dusk begins to settle under light snow.  We board one of those airport taxiway buses that takes us to our plane which is sitting away from the main terminal, not far from a TU-154 which have been grounded by the Russian Civil Aviation Authorities. The flight is full, just like the load factors back home. Landed safely at KZN, after taking quite a nice cat nap in my window seat. Upon landing, this time there was no cheer from the passengers? maybe it is only done when the Russian Nationals return to their home country? We taxi past seven TU-154s sitting idle on the side of the taxiway, I wonder how soon they will be back in service, just glad we didn't have to fly one now.  The veteran USA players still speak of their flight to Arkanglesk, where they flew with several of the other teams in a Russian military cargo plane with seats twelve across ... some vowed never to do that again. I have been very happy with the aircraft, even if the seat pitch (kneespace) is a little small, but then again, I have short legs.

Hotel Bulgar, Kazan
It has been now thirty hours since I left for the bus stop this morning (actually yesterday), and we are finally at the hotel. Just have to check in, and get the accreditation photos taken for our security passes for the tournament.  Then we'll grab a bite to eat at the banquet room.
The food is quite good, some fish, potatoes w/ vegetables, and some beef stroganoff. Salad and bread are also available.  Kevin, Eric and I decide that we'lll grab a quick bite to eat, then walk up to the main stadium where Team USA will be having a practice session. While we don't think we'll be refereeing an A-pool game at the stadium, it'll still be good to get a little excercise after the long flight.  The temperature has now dropped to about -20 F, and there is a good wind blowing as we begin our walk from the hotel several hundred meters up to the stadium (it took 12 minutes).  At this temperature the ice is rock hard. I am glad that the temperatures will rise back into the range that we are used to by the time we work our first game (Canada vs Hungaria on Monday 14:00 at the Rocket stadium,  home to Dynamo Kazan). We spend only about ten minutes on the ice, for it is bloody cold on our faces.  The players had commented about the ice, as I put my skates on in their locker room, hard, and chipping up ... one guy said the Swedes put some oil in the water to make it softer ... not sure about that, but this surface feels funny.  Not only is it very hard, but it sounds hollow. I think they've got it flooded over a soccer pitch, and there is some sort of sheathing underlayment making the hollow sound.
Well, we didn't stay on the ice long, and began our trek back to the Bulgar hotel, right into the wind. Wish I had brought a scarf ... I had thought about it, for photo ops, but didn't have a current Minnesota Stars one, so bagged it ... maybe that was telling, as I later read about the USSF removing their sanctioning of the NASL, which is gutting. I hope that our team and the rest of the NASL can wrangle their shi# so we can support our local club.
Back at the hotel, I dress out of my multiple layers, and head to the lobby for 2 beers, 84 rubles ($2.70) , Internet: 100 MB, 107 r ($3.60). Not so surprised that the free wi-fi cost money, so I'll be jumping on and off here and then.  Now finally to bed at 00:27 with wake up call at 08:15 for our first FIB referee meeting. Tomorrow are opening ceremonies at 14:00, and Russia vs USA at 15:00.  Should be nice and warm by then 7 F (5 C).
Sunday, 23 January 2011
Awoke at 05:30, after only about five hours sleep, but decided that I'd might as well stay up and follow the USA vs  Chile soccer friendly from Los Angeles (game ended 1-1). Got a little nap in before the 08:15 wake up call. Our ref crew met for breakfast at 09:00, then had FIB Referee Meeting at 10:00. At the meeting, we all introduced ourselves to the other International referees. Several of the crews were familiar from previous tournaments, but there are always some new faces. In addition, we discussed transportation to the stadiums, the first three days assignments, and game day protocol which included application of tournament sponsor logo on our helmets and new uniform jacket with another new sponsor. Finally, we were given a rules test.
We adjourned the meeting, and contemplated a trip to the central market, however, we did not have enough time to make the side trip before the opening ceremony at 14:00, followed by the  Russia vs USA game at 15:00. Our crew made the short walk up the street to the stadium, where there was a large crowd gathered in line for tickets. We, of course, were able to walk right up and into the main entrance for participants and officials. There, we were escorted up to the VIP suite overlooking the rink. The room was decked out with a fine spread of appetizers, exotic fruits, and vodka. The temperatures had warmed up a little, but the wind was howling. The ceremony was simple with two players from each team skating  out with their flag, and some welcoming speeches from the President of Tartarstan and the FIB. We went back into the VIP lounge to await the start of the first game, and warm up.
The game began well for the USA who were mighty underdogs versus the mighty Russian team who have their sights set upon winning the tournament and beating their arch rival, Sweden. The first minute went well, as the Russians gave up the ball after an error, most probably caused by the the ice conditions (ball appears to be quite bouncy in the bitter cold, and the surface is less than ideal). The USA team is able to defend as a group, and hold the Russians from scoring until the 15th minute. This I think is a very good achievement. The first half ends with the score 6-0. The game ends 17-0, as the US players really began to hang their heads toward the end of the game. USA player of the game was goal keeper, Eric Kraska, who played an amazing first half, making several great saves early in the match, and stopping several good scoring chances and corner shot situations. We spend part of each half watching the game from the warmth of the VIP lounge which has the game televised on High Definition monitors. While seeing the game with the full field perspective, it is really nice to see the game on the monitor with the very highly skilled production and camera work. The instant replays and slow motion work are incredible, for the real time speed of play is too fast at times.
We stay for the next game, Sweden versus Finland, which should be one of the better of the group stage matches (aside from RUS-SWE). We are not disappointed as the game is tied up at 5-5 in the final minutes by Finland who go on to upset the Swedes in penalty shots.  A very big victory for the Fins. We decide to head back to the hotel, for it has been a long day at the stadium, and it is time for dinner.
After dinner, our referee team meet in my room for some discussion of the rules in preparation for our next days match. We enjoy some adult beverages and commeraderie before retiring at 23:00. Tomorrow will be a big day for us, as we have to travel the thirty minutes by microbus to the Rocket stadium, home of Dynamo Kazan, leaders of the Russian Bandy League. We have not seen this facility yet, so are a little unsure of what to expect, but I am sure that we will be treated to a first class facility as has been the case in all the World Championships.

Monday, 24 January 2011 (Kazan, Russia)

Wake up call at 08:15 this morning, then breakfast at banquet room. We relaxed at the hotel before meeting the transport to our game (Canada vs Hungaria) in the lobby at noon.  Referee crew, Russian FIB supervisor, and our  translator took the 30 minute drive to the Rocket Stadium, where we find some incredible referee dressing room facilites. The previous game (Belorussia vs Latvia) is just into the second half and the snow is falling at a pretty good rate. We go thru our pregame protocol, meeting with the teams/coaches, check our radio headsets then prepare to dress for the game , and our warmups.

The temperature today, 9 F is quite nice compared to yesterdays bloody cold and wind, however, the snow is beginning to fall at a pretty good rate. The game begins, and the Canadians are clearly the better team, scoring their first of thirteen goals in the first two minutes. As the snow keeps falling the bandy is not very fluid, as the players are unable to carry the ball very well, so they keep chipping the ball to keep out of the snow. Halftime comes mercifully, and they bring out a truck with a plow and brusher to clear the snow before sending out the Zamboni. What should be a fifteen minute half time, extends to thirty minutes. The final score is 13-3.

We encounter a major traffic jamb on the way home, which takes us almost an hour and a half. We decide to get out of our microbus and walking the last block due to an accident involving a city bus. We quickly change into warm gear and walk up to the A-group stadium to see Russia vs Finland. A great game with a major upset, as the Fins follow up last night's performance with an upset victory 4-3. This sets up a great tournament, and quite a change of pace from previous years.

After the match we walk over to the Korston shopping mall and hotel complex. We immediately find the USA players at the bar/bowling alley, enjoying themselves. Their game today found them scoring first, but only holding that lead for 47 seconds before losing by a score of 7-2.  Finally back to the hotel for dinner at about 9:30. A beer with my ref team mates before hitting the hay tonight, for tomorrow we have another big day starting with a meeting to review the first games. Then we repeat the game day with another noon bus to the B-group stadium where we will officiate Belorussia vs Holland, then I will go directly to the A-pool stadium to be the fourth official for Russia vs Norway.
****
Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Wake up call at 0700, breakfast then referee meeting for assessment of previous two days matches. After meeting we took taxi to the Central Market in search of Valenki (wool boots). Taxi cost 300 r. ($9.) We walked the market, several distint areas from fruits and vegetables, to meats and in back outside we found the woolen socks, mittens and the valenki. I negotiated with a couple  of vendors using the calculator to purchase some hand made boots for 1400. r ($47.)

We decide to make a real quick reconaissance of the area, since we have less than an hour, so we high tail it down the main pedestrian avenue to the Kremlin area near the confluence of the Volga and Kazanka rivers. Snap a few photos then begin to hail a taxi back to the Bulgar hotel, Eric negotiates with the driver for 200. r ($6.66). At hotel lobby, we pick up our 'box' lunches, which consist of some juice box, yogurt, banana, breads, tomato w/ cucumber, olive and feta cheese, and a fish and potato entre. Very nice white fish with Tatar sauce (of course).
==========
Noon, and we're off again to Raketa (Rocket) stadium, home of the Kazan bandy team, where all the Group B games are played. The referee locker room is AMAZING, for it is almost excessively large, outfitted with padded seat with hangers for gear, a sofa chair and 'love seat', writing table adorned with cookies, hot/cold bottled water, two separate toilet rooms, six showers. It is all brand new, painted and well lit (larger than the visiting locker room at the Jimmy (St. Paul Central H.S.).

Our game features Belarus versus Holland. Probably the most lopsided fixture of the group.  The game plays out as expected, and each team play in a very sporting manner, making our duty much easier. We are joined at the match by two of the elite Swedish referees who not only want to visit the Rocket Stadium, but also would like to watch our game (as referees). All goes well, and the ball kids are begging me for lollipops as I passed them out the day before. Unfortunately for them, no lollipops, instead today, I have chocolate, which goes over very well indeed.

After the game we all board the microbus back to the Bulgar hotel, but today we do not experience the 'cork' (traffic jamb). I am able to get back to the hotel just in time to transfer from our bus to the Finland referees transport to the Labor Reserves stadium where I will be the fourth official. The temperature is dropping rapidly, and we are now at about 3 F. I will be participating in the game by standing between the two team benches and documenting the game statistics, and keeping orderly team benches. I am able to wear quite a bit of extra layers, for if one of the referees is injured and unable to continue, then I can go to the dressing room, and remove a few layers and put on my skates and jacket.  By the 30 minute mark, I can feel my nose and chin beginning to freeze. Not being active and having my corpuscles chasing eachother, it is getting quite cold. Half time finally arrives, and I am able to apply some Warm Skin (Tm) to my face and ears. The second half gets even colder, but my face feels much better. The game (Russia vs Norway) also ends as expected with a ten goal margin.

I return to the room and begin to unpack, Kevin and Eric arrive after dinner, and we enjoy a beverage before I go down for some dinner of some dry salmon, noodles, and a vegetable medly. I am able to meet with the FIB Referee Tournament Director and join him at the table. He indicates that the Holland coach gave us high marks for our game earlier in the day. Shortly thereafter, the Finland referee team joins us. We all eat fairly quickly as the time is 22:00. Tomorrow we have the 11:00 game, so it's an 09:00 for the bus back to Rocketa.

Today was a great day of bandy in the sunshine, and most touching as we observed a moment of silence before our match - paying our respect to the lives lost in the Moscow airport bombing from yesterday afternoon.
****

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Another early wake up call, for our referee duty today is Holland vs Canada with game time at 11:00. As we are going to the hotel lobby at 08:50, we are instructed that Eric will be required to fill in for Russia Referee Team 2, for one of the referees is ill. This throws quite a wrench into the day, for Eric must now be assistant for two ninety minute games, and I must take his assignment as fourth official for the evening game featuring Russia and Kazakhstan. Two nights in a row as the fourth official for a Team Russia match. I don't think tonight will be as cold, for it was only -9 C (16 F) this afternoon.  I think I'm going to wear my new Russian valenki boots, and see what kind of reactions I get. I think it will be positive.

Kevin and I returned to the hotel on the microbus with our translator attache, Julia (her english name equivalent). She has been very helpful, and we must find some way to get her a gift for her volunteer service. Often the Team USA will collect money for their translators.

I take a nice hot tub after the game, this is a version of Neal's Pretty Good (NPG) hot tub, for the hotel bathrooms have enormous bathtubs.  So I draw a hot bath, and take a soak, and wash a pair of wool socks and t-shirt.

Kevin and I get to the lunch buffet at 3:00, and I enjoy a nice warm bowl of borscht with a big dollop of sour cream. Borscht is a very traditional russian dish made from beets. As a boy, my father grew beets in the garden by the lake, and the beets tasted just like the peat earth that they were grown in. Nonetheless, we children were made to eat what was served, no questions or tantrums, which has been a very good thing for me as I am willing and able to try the wide variety of food that I have encountered in my travels over the years. I really feel sorry for those who are unwilling or unable to enjoy exotic cuisine.

Well, it's 07:00 at home, now, and I must meet my Swedish Referee team in the hotel lobby in 30 minutes to go to the stadium for tonights match (2 1/2 hours before the game). I am really looking forward to working in this crew of highly experienced professional bandy referees.  I am sure that there will be many things that I will learn and be able to bring back to share with both my soccer and bandy referee colleagues.

Thursday, 27 January 2011

Wake up call at 07:00 after staying up a little late, and beginning to feel a little sick, with chest congestion and sore throat. I can hear my lungs wheezing as I lay in bed, and have a bit of pain, and caughing up a little phlem. At 04:00, I awake, and now feel quite a bit worse, so I drink a bottle of water and take (2) Ibuprofen tablets and return to bed. At 07:00, I take two more tablets

After our match this morning, a large group traveled by microbus to the Labor Reserves stadium to watch the very important match between Norway and USA. We get updates on the  bus for the score, and arrive at stadiium just before half time. Gulnaz (Julia) has called ahead to Ksenia to make arrangements for me to see the doctor immediately upon our arrival. I get an immedeiate inspection where they listen to my lungs and take my temperature 38.2 C, which is quite high. I was given a tablet of some sort at the stadium by the doctor, and told to return to the hotel.

I really want to stay abnd watch the USA play, so I convince Julia and Ksenia, and we go up to the VIP lounge and eat our 'box' lunch (spagetti noodles with some small amount of red sauce, about half pound of breaded chicken, the tomato and cucumber salad (which has been everpresent), a package of sour cream (like yogurt cup, but just simple sour cream), banana, bread, bun and a pastry. I eat is all except the sour cream (I taste it), and most of the bread/pastry. The game ends at 15:30, and we are on our way down the stairs after seeing a final goal (second) by the USA in the 85th minute or so. So USA lands in the 6th and final place in the A-Pool, and will face Belorussia for the A6 vs B1 Promotion match. This has been a fixture for years, and Team USA will really need to play well in order to stay up (from what I saw on the bandy rink this week).

We must now grab my gear from the locker, and take microbus to the hotel for medical card, then into the propka (traffic jam) to cross the river to the hospital to see the doctor, and verify perscriptions.  We arrive at the hotel, and I take five minutes to deposit my gear and make a quick change into jeans. Gulnaz (flower in Tatar) and Ksenia escort me via microbus to the hospital.  Probka (cork) traffic jam makes transport take a long while. We arrive at hospital at about 16:35, wait about three minutes for the doctor, get the checkup, have the information translated to Julia, and I am out of there at 17:05 (amazing). We stop by a pharmacy on the way home, and the organizing committee administrator, Ksenia, pays the entire 1100. r ($37.) including a thermometer, which may be one of my souvineers of he trip, as it is in C.

Depart Bulgar Hotel about 16:00; arrive hospital at 16:35, 37.8 C (normal 36.6 C)at the hospital. Dr. diagnosis is bronchitis ... I am directed to stay in hotel, so no excursion to Kremlin for me. And I imagine that my tournament is over. I really hope that this does not spoil the prospect for Kevin and Eric to be assigned a game in the B-Pool Playoffs (2 v 3 and 4 v 5). I hope that the Referee administrator, in one of his last duties before retiring, will assign a Swedish assistant for them.  I think so, but who knows.

I retire to my room upon returning from the one hour trip back to the hotel (fast, for rush hour, I'm told), and await the start of the Russia vs Sweden final group game.  The tournament has been stood on it's head, as SWE v RUS will be semi-final #2, when they typically meet in the final. So tonights game will really be meaning less, and neither team will want to show their cards.

Catastroph ! I am searching the 99 chanels on the TV in my room, and can NOT find the game ... finally I wander down to the lobby and find it is not being shown (Ksenia had offered me to borrow her I-pad, but I respectfully declined) .  I decide not to pay the 107 r ($3.70/ 100 MB)  So I will now get some food so I can take my anti-biotic (2 hours after eating).

I AM REALLY BUMMED. Not only is my tournament over as far as referee duty, but I will be sequestered to the hotel room while all the others make the excursion tomorrow, which was to be an off day for Ref Team USA and the other A-Pool teams.

Prescriptions:

Clong: mix one drop with cup of waterper day, in evening, next day anytime, once per day. This is a fizzy tablet.

Inhailer: Berodual-N: one dose three times per day, Deep  breath. Made in England

Zetroled: (antibiotic) one per day with 2 cups water 2 hours after eating.
****
Local internet rates
122/400 r. / month ($13. 33) for unlimited internet by wire, same cost for a cellular service.

***
10:00-1300  Korston, excursion with Team USA to Kremlin, walk to Korston Hotel with Julia to catch motorcoach.
15:00  Excursion to Raifa with referees, Meet at Bulgar lobby.
***

Throat lozenges: up to five per day
Antibiotics:
Expectorant:
*
Friday, 28 January 2011

Awake at 08:00 with a splitting headache. I had it all night, and woke up several times to cough up some phlem, and drink some water and tea. My temperature is still high at 99.5 (37.5 C). My eyes are totally bloodshot. I'd like to take some more ibuprophen, but am concerned about reaction with other meds, so I will just drop another fizzy tablet into a cup of water, and hope that helps. Then I'll think about getting something for breakfast.

I spend the rest of the day in bed, as my lungs really hurt as I cough. My splitting headache remains, so I continue to drink lots of fluids.

At times, I awake, and flip thru the Russian television chanels, and find myself drawn to some classic soviet black and white war dramas ... it is quite surealistic.  In addition, the news about the Moscow airport bombing is complete with some detailed images of the destruction, and some gruesom images of the casualties. This would never fly in America, but it is the full information and story that is shown in almost the entire world.

Saturday, 29 January 2011

Awoke at 08:00 after eleven hours sleep, feeling much better. Temperature is down a bit to 37.5 C (99.5 F). Going to take a nice hot shower, then have breakfast.  Kevin, Eric and I will then go to the Stadium Labor Reserves for the Qualification game between USA (A6) vs Belorus (B1). I am going to stay inside and watch from high above the rink.  Eric was awarded the 4th Official position for Semi #1 between Russia and Sweden, and Kevin will be the 4th for Semi #2 featuring Finland and Kazahkstan. There was a meeting for the referees last night, but I was told not to attend, and rest. At this meeting the other games were reviewed, and our crew received a very good assessment, with no negative criticism. In fact, the supervisor, indicated that he thought that we were as well prepared as any of the other crews. This was very high praise indeed, and we can feel proud.

HISTORIC VICTORY: USA 5 - BELORUS 2
Team USA win the qualification game in a decisive manner. The players can be very proud.  I am very happy to greet the players in the corridor to the locker room, and give them all a hearty congratulations. For Chris Middlebrook, I give him a hearty bear hug.

The semi finals remain. This tournament is indeed on it's head, for Sweden and Russia will not play in the final, they will need to settle it today.

Russia 3 - Sweden 2
Finland 5 - Kazakhstan 4 (golden goal)

Sunday 30 January 2011

The day of the Grand Final: Finland (A1) vs Russia (A2)

We take the available time, and my better health to go visit the Kremlin. First thoughts are to hire a taxi (about 200 r, $6.70), but we decide to take the public bus for 18 r ($0.60).

The bus drops us off on the north side of the Kremlin wall, adjacent to a beautiful small Church. It is Sunday morning and we hear choral music, and we wonder if we should venture inside. We decide to go inside, and are greeted by a magnificent orthodox interior.

After visiting the Church, we walk up to the Kremlin to visit the Al Sharif (spelling)Mosque. This Mosque is reportedly the largest in Europe, and is of the ornamental style. This Mosque was built for the celebration of Kazan's 1000 years as a city in 2005. The FIB VM was also held in Kazan that year as a part of the celebrations.

Peter and Paul Church is a short walk away from the Kremlin, and according to the guide for the guys tour the other day, the lower level was

Bus back to the Korston,

Shopping Market across from Stadium: chocolates, no horseradish vodka, coffee espresso maker ($27)

Back to hotel, late lunch then dash off to the Final. Stop pick up Ak Bars hockey jersey for KJ 900 r. > 1000 r. on game day.

Grand Final with Gulaz and Anastasia

Half-time ... depart at 87' to get by the security cordon / post-match dignitarys and presentation. Fireworks begin shorthly after departing stadium, then we watch the display from across the main road.

Return to hotel, prepare for the banquet, shower, shave, dress, exchange/trade.

Overcrowded mini-bus to banquet at yacht club at the river just below the Kazan Kremlin.

Dinner and entertainment. Tatar dancers, uniquely spiced  steak dinner.

Depart banquet for hotel 00:00 (we leave early)

Make final arrangements of packing, and get to bed at 00:50, with wake up call scheduled for 03:30.

Awaken by phone/alarm call, clean up a little, then wrangle bags, keeping my extra duffel as yet not needed. Down in hotel lobby by 03:45 to meet Gulaz and the motorcoach to the Korston hotel to wrangle the players and equipment cargo truck.

Most players have used the typical tactic for early morning departure , and that is to stay up until departure, while others like myself, have been tea totalers this evening. Some players, one in particular has tied on an incredible drunk, and has to be steadied with each arm over the shoulder of his team mates, and wrangled out of the hotel lobby and onto the bus, where he is laid out on the last row.

The remaining players have been assembling and putting their massive gear bags into the back of a small cargo truck for transport to the airport. We are all assembled and heads are counted before we make our leave from the Korston for KZN airport at about 04:10. With zero traffic except some dump trucks hauling snow, we expect a short 20 minute drive.

As is the Team USA custom on the ride to the airport, team leader, Chris Halden, will say a few words, followed by a bit of humor. A crowd favorite has been the Chuck Norris jokes, which I believe he reads off his Blackberry. Another growing tradition, is Nick Hauer, telling his Moose joke.

We arrive at KZN at about 04:40, and the bus is only able to drop us about 200 meters from the terminal. So we begin a long slog thru a slightly plowed and hard packed snow parking area. After about 100 meters we encounter some large concrete blocks with strings of chain, which we have to either lift our bags or slide between the chain and a large snow pile. Not so convienent, and down right annoying, but hey, this is Russia. The first door to the terminal has arrow pointing another 100 meters down the concourse away from the bus, so we begin the slog, to the entrance and the first of many security checkpoints and bag scanners.

We have planned well, and now must wait for our turn to enter the departure area, and go thru another security check point separating a public arrival/departure concourse, from the ticketing area. So bags are dropped, and many of the guys sack out for some sleep. I had thought that we were on a 06:00 flight out on Tartarstan Air with the Norwegian team, but it is becoming apparent that we may be on another flight at 7:00. So we paitently wait, until our time to approach and clear the ticketing security checkpoint. It is a strange, but maybe the only way to logisticate the few departures, but they only allow one flights passengers thru at a time. Now is our turn, so we again process our bags thru the scanner and ourselves thru the metal detectors.

It immediately becomes clear that there is some sort of SNAFU with our ticketing. The Team USA attache, Denis, appears to be of little help, so, it is our referee attache Gulnaz, who must now take the initiative. Apparently we have electronic tickets, which becomes immediately clear is a major problem. After much animated discussion between the ticketing agent, the attaches and Magnus, we are told that we must go to the other terminal. This means that we must retrace our steps back the 100 meters thru the concourse and then make the 600 meter 'death march' outside into a bitter wind. Taking us, of course thru the semi-plowed parking lot, over the chain linked bollards. I am now carrying my carry on backpack, briefcase with radios / laptop and hauling  my main bag with the second bag that Kevin and I have shared.

The second terminal is quite new, but still very small, and the team and gear bags fill up the small area between the doors and the security scanner and metal detector. Gulnaz, other attaches and Magnus approach the ticket desk, where it becomes clear that these electronic tickets are in now way today a convenience. Gulnaz has said to Eric on the long slog to this terminal that she is very upset, for the other attaches do not know anything. So, she has stepped up and tried to resolve the issue. As you can imagine, the bureaucracy of a Russian airline can be a daunting task, indeed. We wait ... and wait ... watching as Gulnaz and Magnus become increasingly agitated and frustrated. Well, lo and behold, in walks the President of the International Bandy Federation, Boris Skrinik (spelling). I greet him with  a friendly wink and a hand shake, as I have been taking up the rear of our group, making sure no one is left behind. Finally at last a very powerful Russian man, can come to the rescue. NOT.

Catastroph! I see indications from Gulaz face and gestures that we must return again to the original terminal, facing the 'death march' again. The players have enormous gear bags, many of which are way overweight. The call is made to bring the bus around, and get as much on board as possible. I decide to slog again, and turn to head out into the bitter wind. I am prepared for a day of travel, so I am not wearing an over coat, hat or gloves, and have on my valenki (wool boots). Equipment manager, John, has two massive suitcases, plus two relatively large carry on bags, so I offer to help him with his load. So now, I have my gear bag on wheels with another bag strapped on top, John's massive suitcase on wheels, my carry on backpack, and briefcase.  I begin the trek, and am already beginning to feel that my lungs are not converting enough oxygen, so I take a break half way to the chain linked bollards. Lift all the bags over the obstacle, and reassemble my luggage train. I must make another break to rest my hands, and catch my breath before finally arriving at the terminal where the bus with many of the other guys has arrived. Again, we must pass thru the initial security checkpoint, just inside the single 3' wide entrance door. I had flipped the latch to open the adjacent leaf on the first trek out, so I indicate to someone up front to do it again to make the entrance easier to navigate.  However, there are still a dozen of us standing and waiting outside for our turn.

Finally, as I approach the end of the concourse and the next security check point, there are names being called and tickets being passed out. Horray! some progress, finally. I check my watch and we have now returned to where we were almost two and a half hours later. It is just after 07:00.  Apparently, we are to be flying on a chartered Ak Bars Aero CRJ 200. This is a smaller regional jet, but it is quite new with winglets, so I am relieved, as there are a couple of TU-154 sitting idle adjacent to the terminal.

The process for passing security is not too painful (for me), but others are at their wits end, and their frustration levels are beyond their capacity to control. I keep smiling, and doing my best to make eye contact with others and empart a cheerful demeanor, especially to Gulnaz, who at this point is quite relieved to see us with tickets in hand. Again, I take up the rear of our procession thru security, and take the time before entering to give Gulnaz a big hug, and a kiss on each cheek (muslim custom?, I don't know, but who cares). I tell her that she has done an extroidinary job, not only this morning, but the entire week, in her volunteer position as attache for the FIB referees at the Raketa Stadium. Our referee crew, any myself especially, have grown quite fond of her, as she was very caring and instrumental in getting me immediate medical attention when I first became ill, what seems many days ago.

Kevin, Eric and I have taken a collection, which we intended to give to Anastasia and Gulnaz for their efforts, but they respectfully and steadfastly rejected (at the Final game). So, I suggested that we, purchase some of the Kazan 2011 commemorative scarves and hats for them, and present at the airport. So, I have in hand a small bag bearing a note from us, the scarf and hat 1800 r. ($50), and some other small tokens (chocolates, chewing gum, pins, etc). After giving Gulaz a final goodbye hug, expressed my anticipation to return in 2018 for the Soccer World Cup, I give her the bag, which she opens slightly to see the blue/white colors of the scarf/hat, smiles, and graciously accepts the gift to share with Nastia.

Everyone is quite relieved to finally have (handwritten) tickets in hand as we begin checking in our luggage.  We have only a short wait before we board a small bus to take us to the aircraft. Again, we must exit the bus, but there are no attendants to prevent us all from exiting, the bus departing, leaving a long line to walk up the drop down stair into the cabin. Doh! A VIP van as arrived, now, and they are waiting for all of us to board, before braving the winter winds. We are traveling with many of the Moscow based Russian National Team players and staff. Several of them are in the rear of the plane, and have a bag full of Grolsch beer, which are shared amongst the nearest USA players.  The commeraderie continues.  Not sure who the VIP is, but it is apparent that he is indeed a powerful man. Also on board is our FIB President, so we are traveling among some of the elite people in our sport.

The ninety minute flight is uneventful, but I am unable to sleep, so I read a bit from my novel, The Boreal Owl Murder.  I will wait for the next flight to take the sleep aid. We are served a very nice breakfast box, with some bread, sliced lunch meats, fruit and vegetables. Arrival at Moscow's SVO airport brings us to Terminal 2, where we again board a standing bus to collect our bags.  We are the only activity, so the bags arrive almost immediately.  However, apparently, no one is prepared to transport us all the way across the airport where we catch our Delta flight, so we wait, and wait, and wait, until finally we are able to carry our gear up a flight of six steps to yet another security checkpoint before boarding another standing bus for the drive around almost the entire perimeter of the airport. Out of the bus, and into the terminal concours C. We must again, begin hauling our gear thru the terminal to another concourse E. At least now, we are indoors. However, at one point we are in a skyway approaching E, and the sun is blazing in, and the temperature rockets to what feels like 80 or 90 degrees. I'm dressed from head to toe in a wool suit coat over a sweatshirt, dress slacks, wool socks and my valenki. While my feet are comfortable, I am beginning to roast.

Finally, we reach the Delta check in and they are fully prepared for our group. I have achieved Silver Medallion status with my travel in the last few years for bandy and the World Cup South Africa, so I am allowed the extra  bag, and I am able to select a middle seat in the center row all by myself. Joy! We all congregate at the gate lounge, where someone discovers free wi-fi. Some quick email are dashed off to update my status (no internet access for last two days) and prepare for return home.

SVO to ATL is on a Boeing 737-600 ER (extended range), and our travel time is estimated at eleven hours and eleven minutes. I'm seated, removed my saturated valenki, and slipped on my flip flop.  I prepare my sleep aid, and await the first drink service. I then fill my neck pillow and prepare for a small nap before the dinner service, a chicken entree.

Good sleep on the flight, so I'm feeling pretty good. Flight departs in just over an hour, and we just had a nice big sandwich on the flight.

Well the ATL > MSP trip was interesting as well, we were delayed in departure, then the airport at MSP was closed to clear runway from snow, and an aborted landing delayed our arrival. Total travel time, from hotel to home was 27 hours.

Looking forward to next years Championships in Almaty, Kazakhstan, home of this years Asian Winter Games.


Allina Woodlake Clinic
2/2/2011
Dr. Leafblad

Arrive at 09:35 for registration, and payment of $25. for visit. Called to examination room just before 10:00, and some preliminary statistics are taken:
122/78 blood pressure
98.0 temperature
96% O2 saturation

I now wait for doctor ... 10:10, no sign of doctor, so I continue to edit the travelog. Dr. Leafblad arrives at about 10:15, and we discuss my illness, and treatment / medicines from Russia. His diagnosis is that the information that I received in Russia was correct. The antibiotic was not identified, but he believes that the 3-day regime was appropriate. The additional 3-day dosage that I purchased should not affect my recovery. He indicated that I could discontinue use of the inhaler if it was ineffective. I have one or two of the fizzy tablets remaining. The doctor then inspects my eyes, lymph nodes (no indication of swelling), and listens to my chest. I almost immediately caugh up some phlem, which clears my lungs. He indicates that allowing the bronchitis to run it's course could take up to four weeks. I could use some musenix, but he thinks the results are mixed. Allowing the natural cough to expell the mucus. I depart the office at 10:40.

Neal's Journal for World Cup South Africa 2010

Wed Jun 9

Departed apartment after running last minute errand to pick up ear plugs, and check with the bank about pin code for bank card at about 12:40, expecting the MTC bus to arrive at 12:50. Bus arrived a few minutes late, but was able to still make connection for 1:05 LRT from MOA to meet up with AJ.

AJ arrived and we packed the extra Total Jackassery and USA scarves in with the soccer balls that we're bringing to pass back to the kids. In total, I collected 26 balls ranging from many of the Edina Soccer Club's size 3's, several from Nick Weatherall and his Hopkin's youth club, to four brand new balls donated by Dick Benham at General Sports in Minneapolis.

Met Steve King at the MSP Leine Lodge for a pre-flight beer.

Flight departs on time.

Thur Jun 10

Arrive Paris at 7:30 AM, met with overcast skys and light drizzle.

RER train into the center of Paris, found a coffee shop for an Americano and AJ's Capuccino. Back out to wander the Saint Michel/Notre Dame district in search of Wi-Fi. Back and forth across the Seine we wander about and hear the sound of Rooster. Sure enough we encounter a shop full of birds and then turn the corner on the north bank to find a street full of animal stores, dogs, cats, birds ... then a block of florists, a tiny oasis among the bustle in the city of Paris.

A vendor is passing out flyers for free food samples under the bridge up river, so AJ and I head over for a small snack cooked up on pedi-vendors. Meat on a stick and a small wrap like a taco, is nice as we await the arrival of Sasha at the RER stop on the south bank.

We stake out two RER exits to await the arrival of Sasha at 12:30, and he arrives right on time. Time to find a sidewalk cafe for lunch, and we settle for one near the fountain in the square. Onion soup and frittes for me, and Sandwich Madame for the other two. AJ and Sasha have 100cl special beers which have a very sweet citrus flavor, I opt for 50cl.

We are running out of time for our extremely short visit to Paris as the skys clear, so we head back up the RER line to see the Eiffel Tower briefly. Impressive structure, and security abound. We're able to walk under the structure and out toward a stage and lawn area to get a better view. Quick snapshots, then we need to dash back to the RER station in order to get to the Charles de Gaulle airport for our departure to Amsterdam, then Nairobi and finally on to Johannesburg (beginning to wonder if more direct flights would have been a better idea).

Return via RER finds us on the wrong train heading toward Charles de Gaulle airport, so we get off in Saint Denis at the Stade de France stop to await the other train. Several express trains blast thru the station as our logistical window begins to close, when finally an airport train arrives, we board and are back on our way. Sasha's got a little more time and is on another flight, so AJ and I head out to our departure gate several concourses away.

We find out flight to Amsterdam has been delayed, and worry about making the connection, but after a brief conversation with the gate attendant, it turns out OK. Quick hop to AMS, and we're soon off for overnight flight to Nairobi.

Fri Jun 11

NaIrobi airport is a throwback and is quite small and full of duty free crafts. One more leg and we land in JNB just before noon. AJ and I walk the entire concourse and back before stopping at the coffee shop to get our corpuscles chasing eachother.

Clearing passport control at O.R. Tambo airport in Johannesburg is a breeze, and there are no customs inspections as we exit into the arrivals rotunda to be greeted with the sound of dozens of vuvuzelas (annoying at first, but the sound will become a constant companion in the run up to games across the country). Upstairs to collect the tickets from the ATM like machines is also a breeze, now to rendevoux with Anthony. Purchase an hour of internet to check and see if Anthony is here, and send emails to coordinate. Wander into rotunda and seconds later Anthony is there with is Dad and their TV production facilitator (Anthony's father, de Sam Lazero, works for PBS and is in the country to work on a documentary regarding the economic development of South Africa) .

Lunch at the airport at Mugg & Bean's is slightly uninspiring version of a local ??. Really didn't need to eat, but we've got some driving ahead of us to get to our lodging in Magaliesburg to the north and west of JNB. Off to the car rental, then out onto the Johannesburg roads, with AJ piloting the right hand Renault. A couple of missed turns and we're way off course to Pretoria. A stop at petrol station for map and logistication. We end up driving the norther route, then in the backside to the Balula lodge well after dark. Greeted with smiling faces as our hosts were glad to see our arrival. Nice BBQ set up with sausages, steaks, chicken kabobs, mashed potato and porridge.

Am Hang is at the base of the Maliagesburg range, we arrive late and crash hard. Big day tomorrow: England vs USA.

Sat Jun 12

First batch of Neal's pretty good coffee with Sumatran grounds with Sasha on the porch overlooking the Maliagsburg valley. Walter brings us our breakfast makings of a dozen fresh eggs, pound of bacon, a dozen bangers (sausage), fresh baked nut bread and coffee.

The 1st MN Vols begin arts and crafts as we make up three banners, and AJ and I paint up our construction helmets. We're planning on departing from the Belalu lodge at 3 PM for the 8:30 kickoff, nice and early. Many fans at the lodge and the 1st MN Vols do not get on the first transport ... word trickles in from those in Rustenburg that the traffic and logistics are a mess, so our crew get in a Jeep and head off at 3:30. Driving around to the first park and ride, then the station only to find that the transport to the stadium is a mess. We're then able to drive right up to the stadium and dropped off among the masses on the tribal lands. T-minus four hours to kickoff. We walk back to get some beers and begin our walk toward the stadium. Two balls passed back to kids.

Sun Jun 13

R&R at Am Hang in the morning, then off to Boelefeld for the games and F1 from Montreal

Mon Jun 14

Up at 0800 to make coffee and breakfast ... fried up some bacon, then split the beef bangers and ground up the meat, spiced with Pere Pere sauce.

Departed for Kruger at 10:30, after several wrong turns we arrived at the stroke of 17:00 as the gates were to close.

Tues Jun 15

Up at 04:20 to go on a safari drive, meet at 04:45 at the Petrol station. Very cold wind thru the open air truck. Spot lights seeking out the animals before sunrise. Amazing sunrise, then more animal spotting. Hippos in a small reservoir, many springbok and other deer like creatures, wildebeast, water buffalo, giraffe, elephants and many different birds. Eagles, blue winged kingfishers and many other exotics in addition to a Giant Heron.

Returned at 09:00 for some breakfast at the park restaurant, an omelete with bacon, tomato and cheese plus peri peri sauce (this time it was Tabasco).

We checked out and began our own drive thru the park, and finally out the next gate to the north on our way to Sabi.

Amazing drive thru twisty bits up and down thru the mountain valleys to Sabie, finally arriving at 16:00 just in time to check in tothe Backpackers hostel, then walk up the hill to the Woodmens restaurant to watch the game (Portugal vs Ivory Coast) and have dinner. Ostrich steak was great, cooked medium, it was just like a beef steak in consistency (not at all like chicken). Check that off the food list.

A little R&R then we'll go watch Brasil vs North Korea back up the hill. Played game with a drink every time the announcer said Kaka or Dunga ... had our whole section participating, good fun. Thought North Korea did very well the first half defending en masse, until they finally gave up the goal ... one goal was amazing from the end line, beating the keeper.

Wed Jun 16

Up at 08:00 to make some of Neal's pretty good coffee from the local Sabie beans, it was so very good.

Headed out at 09:30 to Graskop for some of Harrie's Pancakes, very famous. We're going to enjoy the incredible scenery here in this area today and the adventurous guys will try the canyon swing, which droppes off a cliff edge, swings 130 meters out and over the valley.

The drive to Gaskop was very nice about 30 minutes up and out of the Sabie valley through some nice windy roads. I can see why this area is a mecca for motor and mountain bikes. Sabie Backpackers is geared toward adventure activites, especially white water rafting. But with the cold temperatures this morning, I wouldn't want to think about getting into a river as the temperatures in the shade drop radically.

Well, we got into Gaskop, and found Harrie's pancakes, the famous place from the guide books. These were not just your typical pancakes, but more like a pancake burrito, stuffed with a wide variety of fillings from chicken, pork, cheese to escargo (for the adventurous or the French). Jim liked them so much he wants go go back again tomorrow, but maybe we'll find another similar place, as competition is good and there was at least one more pancake house in that town, but I assume there are others as well.

After our nice breakfast, we wandered past vendors selling tourist items and macadamia nuts in many flavors to visit an internet cafe to update our journey for friends and family. Internet access has been very few and far between. Access cost R1.00/minute (about $2. for 15 minutes) so I just copied my current journal into email for friends and family, and updated the discussion board for our Minnesota soccer fans.

Finally the time had arrived for what we came to Gaskop for: the Big Swing. Steve was the only adventurous one as the rest of us had no desire, or fear of heights. Steve was strapped into the safety harness and first went on the zip line which was strung across the canyon. This got his adrenaline pumping, as he slid out above the canyon bottom some 60 meters below which was strewen with boulders and trees. Steve said the view was incredible. He was pulled back to the platform, and strapped into the swing apparatus. Standing backwards at the edge of the rickety looking platform over the edge of the cliff, he was given some last minute instructions. As he leaned backwards and was let go, he let out a scream as he plummeted to toward the bottom of the canyon. Reaching the end of the line, he then swung up toward the other side, then back and forth before settling above a small platform at the bottom. A rope with a bag was sent down to return the harness, and the cable was loosened to lower him to the awaiting staff member. We all agreed that Steve would not have to buy a beer for the rest of the day, and we then drove across the canyon for him to pick up his certificate and his free beverage for his courage. Several of us took video of his experience that he will be able to share with his family when he is old and grey.

On we continued toward a lookout point called God's Window, where we hiked in to some lookout areas from high above the Lowfeld?. Continuing north we find ourselves in the South African version of the Canyonlands, visiting several vistas for waterfalls. Finally, we stop at a viewpoint that overlooks the Blyde? River Canyon. The cliff face shows the many strata of different rock types. Far below sits a lodge of some sort at the bottom of a road full of switch backs.

We then retraced our journey back thru Gaskop to Sabie to pick up some grocerys for a brai (BBQ) before going up to the Woodsman to watch the big match between South Africa and Uraguay.

The long and wide turns of the highlands turned into some steep downgrades and real twisty bits we approached the river vallley bottom at Sabie to find the Traffic Control Officers guiding their prey from the camera speed trap to the side of the road. The officer signaled me, the driver, to the side then began an on thru motion the guys in back thought we should just go on thru slowly, then proceed. We'll, it was just a couple of blocks before I saw the flashing blue light in the rear mirror, pulled to the side, and rolled down the window for the officer to ask why I didn't pull over, and to follow him back to the speed trap area. After two U-turns we're back pulled in behind the traffic control vehicle and the officer approaches, and say's "Ya'llo, license?" I reply, "I don't have a yellow license". What a dumbass, he was saying hello, license the guys in back indicate. So I give him my driving license, and he goes back to the vehicle to return with a printed paper indicating the levels of fines. They captured me going 76 kph (43 mph) in a 60 kph (36 mph) so the fine calculated to 250 Rand (US$30.). The driver asks where we're from, and we say USA, he asks if we're here for the World Cup and if we're players ... seriously, look at us, five dodgy guys stuffed in a Renault Senic? He pauses, thinks, then opens his wallet and askes if we can change dollars ... I'm thinking, what the hell? now he wants a favor? He's got a fifty, two fives, and three ones (about 400. Rand) I really don't want to change the money, and begin to negotiate that I'll give him the Rand less the 250 Rand fine, and say we don't have that much money with us. I've given him the 250. and he pauses again, and he gives me back 100. I indicate that I want the ticket (as a souviner) ... he pauses , doesn't seem to want to give me the ticket ... I ask again for ticket. He gives me back another 50. and says to be careful, and not speed. What a strange experience, so I paid a US$13. "bribe" but never got the certificate.

On to the market to pick up fixin's for the braii (BBQ), a couple of the guys get in just as the store closes, but Steve and I delayed, and were denied, so we went to filling station to fuel the car. As we began to barbeque our beef and meat sausages, and boiled our corn, AJ broke out his Ostrich pate and crackers. The coals were started and a big cast iron pot was filled with water to boil for the corn. Two big rings of sausage were cooked up (one beef the other a red colored 'meat'). We have another amazing meal, then prepare to depart for the Woodsman for the Bafana Bafana game.

In the run up to the game we can hear the honking of the Vuvuzelas in the surrounding neighborhood. While many are upset with the sounds, I have grown accostom to them and am not bothered. I think that FIFA made the correct decision by not banning them, as they have become the icon of the tournament. Those who complain about the sounds while watching the games on TV, can not see the enthusiasm on the faces of the people ... it is infectous.

Bafana bafana are defeated by Uruguay starting with an ugly goal, then a fine goal by Diego Forlan, as his free kick from just outside the penalty are is slightly deflected off a defenders head and dipped under the bar. Uraguay then choked off the game and went on to win 3-0.

Thurs Jun 17

Up at 06:45 to make coffee (the last of the Sumatran from home), first to rise, so I can catch up with journal. Outside the cars are covered with frost. Sasha gets up at 07:00, the others still asleep at 09:00. Good conversations with the other early risers including a Frenchman, and a young woman from Indiana who's teaching in Polokwane.

We head out for some pancakes in a local Sabie place, I have mine with apples and cream a glass of guava juice, and it is good. Steve and Andy finally get to the phone store to sort out their cell phone batteries, and sim cards, and we proceed back to Magaliesburg.

Heading south on R24 from Rustenburg exit, I decide (late) to stop at a roadside vendor for a bag of oranges. Making the abrupt exit off the asphalt in heavy traffic I startle the other guys in the car. Twenty Rand ($2.50) for the bag of oranges, and I'm ready to merge back into the traffic off the dodgy shoulder. The traffic is heavy, and I am able to pass a car or two on the two lane highway heading for Am Hang (base of cliff). I settle in behind a truck as we're only going a short distance, and the visibility of the oncoming traffic is limited. As we approach our lodging exit a car begins to pass, then stops aside, and he's indicating that my right front tyre is going flat. Luckily we're close, and we exit to open the gate, and it's not completely flat. I make the windy drive up the dodgy dirt road at very slow speed. Arriving at Am Hang the tire is almost completely flat. Luckily the car has a full sized spare in the boot, and we've got it changed out in about five minutes.

The braii this evening consists of: marinated chicken, perie pere barbequed ribs, pork loin wrapped in bacon, tiny zucchinis, and some biscuits. Down to Balule lodge to watch France vs Mexico. The owners and bar staff are glad to see our return as it has been very quiet there for the last two days.

Fri Jun 18 (Game Day vs Slovenia)

I'm up at 08:00 to make the coffee and settle into the journal with a bowl of yogurt with meuslix, an orange and grapefruit. It is quite cold again this morning. We plan on a 10:30 departure for Johannesburg and Soccer City stadium at Ellis Park. The game kicks off at 16:00, so we intend to arrive early to the city and meet other US supporters at a local pub just east of the stadium.

Last evening, Sasha had the first bought of sickess, and we're hoping he recovers soon this morning so he can enjoy the game.

Departed Balule at 10:45 for Soccer City with the six 1st MN Vols plus two guys from California. Arrived at Pete's Pub at 12:30 where the US fans were gathering. Into the stadium at least an hour before the game. No line for the beer, so I grab a couple of Bud bottles for R$60. (US$4. each).

Sasha and I are seated in the corner about 2/3rd's of the way up the lower level. The rest of our crew are again in the front row of the upper deck at the top of the penalty area. Both Supporters sections appear to be mostly situated in the corners which is different from the usual location behind goal at the end line. There is some controversy for the other groups section as the head of security at that section insists that the supporters remain seated. Despite the fact that the entire section are supporters, they remain militant, and begin to threaten expulsion for those who insist on standing.

The game begins poorly for the US as Algeria are pressing our defenders who are unable to build any possession from the back. The entire team seems to be a step off, and Algeria go up relatively early in the match. They score a second just before half time, and the US supporters are disappointed with the run of play. I take my seat to rest and ponder the outcome as the sun has now set behind the far stand and the temperature begins to drop. While it was wonderful standing in the bright sun with my adorned construction helmet blocking the sun, the temperature begins to drop. I begin layering my clothes with the fleece Puma top over long sleeved tech shirt, then comes the nylon track suit top, followed by the colors of the 1st Minnesota Volunteers hoodie. The adidas beanie goes on my head and the helmet is upsized accordingly. The scarfs become very handy in the cold, not like our typical summer conditions.

After the game we're walking down the main street back to Pete's Pub, when I spot our driver waiting for us in the Vito. It's just before 19:00, so our group can get an early start back to Magaliesburg in order to watch the other game in our Group C: England vs Algeria. We're served dinner consisting of a grilled ham, cheese and tomato sandwich accompanied with a few bits of lettuce. My beverage of choice has been the Castle lager.

Sat Jun 19

Up just before 07:00 for our early drive to the airport as we fly Mango Air to Cape Town. The flat tire has been fixed, and Corvis (Balule lodge owner) indicates that the original tire will be OK to drive on, but we will keep the spare tire on the car and let the rental company deal with it. We've arrived at JNB and are on board the aircraft at 10:45 for the 11:00 departure. Boeing 737-800 will be our aircraft.

We're greeted by warm weather and clear skys. The driver from the Zebra Crossing's Backpackers lodge met us at arrivals for transport. We settled in, got the nickle tour, the went off for a pizza. After stuffing ourselves, we wandered down to the Fan Fest at the waterfront to see Ghana vs Australia. Budweiser for R18. (US$2.50). Standing around for the afternoon made me quite tired on my feet. After the game we wandered back up to Zebra Crossing's for a little R&R. For the 20:30 game (Denmark vs Cameroon) we found a Tapas bar with nice TV. Jim and I shared a bottle of red wine.

Early to bed at 23:00 in our hostel room for eight, but we (AJ, Anthony, Sasha and I) expect the English boys to stumble back in late and two sheets to the wind, so I put in the ear plugs, and take some benadryl for sleep. Sure enough (the others say) the wankers wander back at zero god hundred but I am unawares.

Sun Jun 20

Jerry rigged a coffee filter holder by slicing a plastic yogurt container in thirds leaving the bottom with holes. Then set it inside a six sided cheese grater. The typical pot with three knives held the apparatus.

Inquired with the beautiful young lady at the office about getting a rental car for our trip today down the east coast of the cape to see the jackass penguins in Simon's town, then down to the Cape of Good Hope. Return should bring us back up the west coast and Chapman's peak.

We'll we've returned from our journey to the end of Africa! We had two Opel Lite's for the six of us and it worked out great! The car's cost us about R240. (US$32./day with $475. damage waiver per car). The day was great, as we picked up the cars and were on the road at 11:00, down the M3 to the coast on False Bay. Wound around the bay through a string of small towns with our sights set on Simon's Town for lunch, then off to see the Jackass Penguins. The two cars we had were Opel Corsa Lite which drove nice, but I had a bit of a hard time with the gear box (right hand drive, stick on left) due to the fact that I was not winding it up to get the synchros to make easy shifts. As soon as I began really working the RPM's then I was able to find the gears more easily.

Lunch at Bertha's was fantastic, as we were seated in the outdoor patio overlooking the marina. An old British Navy base, the main street reminded me of some of St. Lucia in the West Indies. Nestled up against the hillside, the streetscape was very picturesque.

The meal was fantastic, as several of us ordered the Bertha's Platter: muscles in a cream sauce, batter fried calamari, full prawns, fillet of Angle fish over red rice with chips. Accompanied by a 500 ml Windhoek draft.

Bartered with a vendor who was selling beaded crafts for a couple of penguins. R150. (US$20.)

Back at the hostel to update journal and grab a nice cold beer R15. (US$2.). Good logistication for tomorrow's trip to Robben Island and Table Mountain from the nice gal at the Zebra Crossings office.

We're heading for a Serbian bar that Sasha found the other day to watch what I think should be one of the best games of the group stage, Ivory Coast vs Brasil. I've ordered the Shwarma with lamb which is a flat bread with tomatos R60. (US$8). AJ is trying to set up a wireless hotspot with his Nokia. Beers were R16. (US$2.15) for 500 ml of Castle drafts

Mon Jun 21

Awoke at 07:15 to find that AJ has already been up and brewed a pot of coffee, so I join him and we both update our travel logs while sitting at the picnic table under the vine covered canopy. Nice hot coffee and a bowl of yogurt w/ muesli should power me through the busy day as we have reservation for 11:00 boat ride to Robben Island (3.5 hour tour), then a hike up Table Mountain (2.5 hours up, then five minute cable ride down.

Returned the cars, R93. in petrol, however, AJ's petrol total was R240.? so we think the attendant double billed him (not clearing the pump). Long walk to the Robben Island ferry terminal under the clock tower in a drizzle. We arrive right at our 10:30 requirement, and the ferry with 300 visitors departs right on time at 11:00. The ferry ride is relatively smooth and a video program gives some brief history perfectly timed for our arrival.

We are directed to tour busses at the end of the pier, however, they have filled up by the time we arrive, so we get the first tour of the political prison grounds by a former prisoner Gaya?, who spent five years from 1976 - 1981 for political organizing. We're shown the different cell blocks including Nelson Mandela's cell (they are all 9' x 7'). I've brought a passback ball with me which I've been dribbling thru the streets, and finally get to see the famous futbol field. We get on the bus for the island tour which includesthe village where the wardens families lived; some military emplacements including a 17" gun which is undergoing restoration. We return to the pier for departure just before 14:00.

Portugal is destroying North Korea as we head for the Paulaner restaurant upon return to the waterfront, and we enjoy our first dark beer, the Dunkel, and I select the German sausage basket with chips. After the game we head for another brewery which is straight into the crowd leaving the Greenpoint Stadium, and when we arrive it is teeming with celebrating Portugal fans, so we backtrack toward the city center, as the weather begins to clear.

A grey drizzty day seemed perfect conditions for visiting the political prison at Robben Island.

I head for the Green Square Market to make a first look at the local crafts, while the rest of the crew either head for the hostel or another bar to watch the Chile vs Switzerland tie. The market is just breaking down, so I don't get a good feel for the pricing or values, and will have to return tomorrow before we depart. A little down time after the afternoon game for journal update, the first shower in days, and wash some socksunderwear. Then I head down the street to an internet cafe and await the rest of the crew on our way to find dinner. I am hoping for some line caught fish, and it seems elusive, until we closely inspect the menu at Arnold's (next to Tapas restaurant). There we are able to enjoy the Honduras vs Spain game in addition to what must have been our best culinary experience. I find a local fish, bluenose, and the others have wild game (aside from Jim who's been looking for nice salad with Feta cheese). The game platter includes: wildebeast ribs, crocodile ribs, gamba? (sort of venison) steak, and ostrich steak with chips, couscous or mashed potatoes.

Again the last match of the day ends about 22:30, so we are back at the Zebra Crossings hostel and ready for bed. Hopes for clear weather tomorrow for a trek up Table Mountain. Our room of eight (Sasha, Anthony, AJ and myself) are completed this night with a group of guys from Germany. These guys were quite quiet upon their return, unlike the boys from England who stumbled back late night and were quite disruptive.

Tues Jan 22

I'm up late this AM, after getting up in the middle of the night and having trouble getting back to sleep due to the snore fest in our dorm room (despite ear plugs and eye shade). AJ's been up for a while working on his blog entries (WinterWorldCup.com). I set up my coffee aparatus again, but have to split another yogurt cup for filter holder.

The early morning weather is clear and warm, so the trek today up the mountain looks to be perfect.

Two taxi's to the base of the cable car R50. (US$6.70) for each car with three of us. We arrive at the main drop off and head up the road to find the trail head that will take us up thru the gorge to the top of the Table. Twenty minute walk up the road, and we head up the trail for what should be a 2.5 hour trek. The route that we have chosen is the more rigorous, rather that the easy walk. We have consolidated gear into my pack, and I have my two water bottles full.

I've been walking almost continuously with a soccer ball at my feet for the last week, always looking for some kids to passback. Approaching the trailhead there is one of the ubiquitous parking attendants standing in the road with very little to do. I see him from about ten yards, and we make eye contact ... he sees the ball, so I pass it to him. He has no skill on the ball, but attempts a juggle, then passes it back to me. The ball goes back and forth a couple times as we pass, then I realize that I do NOT want to take the ball up to the Table, so I give it to him, and take some video and a photo. Passing back these two dozen balls collected from the kids in the Edina and Hopkins Soccer Clubs has been a great source of joy. Not only seeing the joy in the eyes of the kids when we passback, but while walking the streets, getting honks, good looks, and the occassional playfull interaction with those on the street has been a highlight.

After about ten minutes up the trail, it is getting quite hot. The rest of our crew: AJ, Anthony and Steve; are leading the way (Sasha has wisely decided to take the cable car to the summit and we will meet him there for the return), and since I have the pack, I take up the rear. I decide that trekking in my blue jeans is a terrible idea, but my light pants have been sent to the laundry this morning, so I stop, and drop the pants to the ground, and go the rest of the way in my boxer shorts, and my white w/ red striped USA kit - a good decision as the going gets quite tough.

As we begin up the trailhead about 11:15, I have the usual pain in my right knee, just like when refereeing games, and I know that it will pass after about ten minutes. However, I still concentrate, on fully extending my knee on each step and alternate between legs on each big step. At times the steps are nice and small about 6", but at other areas the steps between boulders is on the order of 12-14". The trail is about a yard wide, but I still try to switch back to keep my stride and minimize the vertical rise in each step. After about thirty minutes, I pass Anthony who has taken a short rest stop. Another ten minutes pass, and I come upon Steve, who offers to carry the pack for a stint. The trail is in quite good condition and they have done quite a bit of retaining with galvanized fencing wrapped blocks of boulders (1 yd x 1 yd x 3 yds). It's quite apparent that the area gets a lot of rainfall. The grade is quite steep now as we approach 12:00, and I take the pack back from Steve. We have been climbing together, with AJ and Jim well up in front out of sight. There are some small springs with water making a wonderful gurgling sound, and occassional flower among the low scrub vegitation. The sun is still shining brightly, and the temperature is very warm and we can see that part of the mountain is engulfed in clouds. Steve and I trade the pack again, as the steps are now almost all at least 12", and the task at hand is quite difficult. Turning back to look at our progress we can see the city of Cape Town below, and we are just approaching the bottom of the clouds which are scattered. We shortly enter the cloud bank and the temperature begins to drop quite a bit. However the energy that we are expending is enough to keep me warm, even in my 'shorts' and light jersey. As we approach the gorge, the sheer walls begin to close and we can see the gap where the trail climbs up to the summit, but it is impossible to see the trail, only large boulders, sheer cliffs and sky. At times, the trail approaches one side of the gorge or the other, and there is a light drizzle of water falling down the granite face, it is VERY refreshing, and at one point, I stop alone on the trail, and attempt to take some video, which I hope will turn out, and can be used as a loop of soothing sounds and visuals.

It's quite clear that we are approaching the summit, and the clouds and wind have really made the temperature drop, but I continue to press on. It's clear that none of us will want to make the same trek down as the downhill pressure on the knees is even more difficult on the joints, as I learned on my trek in the Anapurna Himal, where I had to stop for a day to recover at the Gurka Captain's tea house/lodge.

Finally we're atop the Table. There is a path up to a navigation beacon to the left (another 45 minute trek) up and into the clouds, and the easy scamper to the right toward the gondola. Steve and I ponder it a bit, and decide that if we go toward the beacon, we'll be in the clouds, and not be able to see anything, so we decide to go right. Soon the trail becomes boulders filled with concrete aggregate, and I know that we must be coming close to the end. This primitive concrete walk is quite easy to negotiate, so we know that we must be approaching the area where those who have ridden up the mountain in the tram do their exploring. This simple concrete filled path turnes into a full cobbled paving area as we encounter the first signposts for the interpretive tour. Other areas are cordoned off to protect the natural flora and fauna. The sun has almost completely burned off the cloud base, and the view down to the city and harbor of Cape Town is incredible. While the Signal Mountain is still slightly shrouded in clouds the Greenpoint Stadium is often shining quite brightly on the waterfront park. Around the other side of the mountain lodge which serves as restaurant and gift shop is a seating area where Steve has grabbed a lunch buffet and a much deserved Grolsch beer. The view down to the west coast is just as stunning with the pounding surf and small villages dotting the coastline. The scale of the view is put into perspective, when I see two helecopters flying their tour down the west coast, and they look like mosquitos.

What a magnificent trek, and I am so glad that we decided to climb the more rigorous route, for I believe that it was probably much less crowded that the easier route, and we all have a great sense of accomplishment that we will carry with us until the end of our days. We collect Sasha on the summit and purchase the return ticket on the tramway R85. (US$11.50). The ride down is almost as amazing, as the tram drop out of the head house at an angle of about 75 degrees, and rotates giving all the passengers a 360 degree view on the way down.

We've hailed a mini-bus to transport us back to Kloof and Park near the Zebra Hostel, where we will drop our gear and head out to the markets. A market at Green Street Square ? has been recommended, and we find many stall with vendors selling all kinds of crafts including: beadwork, stonework; masks, textiles, and all sorts of other artwork (and kitch). AJ, Anthony and I head into the market, begin browsing and are greeted by each and every stall owner with a polite "hello" or other greeting such as "looks and touches for free". Other vendors are more insistent, especially if they catch you eyeing a particular item. I have my sights set on some masks for gifts, and would like to purchase a textile wall hanging, or traditional African shirt. At an early stall, I find a very beautiful blue and white "Mandella" shirt, and I begin to negotiate with the vendor ... he wants R180. (US$24.) I balk and tell him that I am going to continue my shopping and may return. I now have a slight idea of where to begin my negotiations ... I would like to get the shirt for no more that half the price, and think it is worth less (still a good deal).

We continue along, and a vendor with all types of masks has piqued our interest, and he describes and shows off the masks from many different countries and tribes. While the masks from the other countries are interesting, I am interested in the South African tribal masks, after all that is where we have been traveling. Anthony is taking the lead in negotiating and the vendor want's R1100. ($145.) The mask is quite interesting and he indicates that it is from the Kiska? tribe the ancestors of Nelson Mandella. Anthony haggles with the guy and settles on a price of R700. (US$93.) R500. (US$67.), and I decide that I will get one myself.

Carrying on I set my sights on a vendor that has some of the small black masks, and I negotiate from R40. (US$5.25) for one to R70. (US$9.25) for three.

The Bafana Bafana final group stage game is approaching at the streets are a buzz with the sounds of the vuvuzelas as the yellow clad supporters make their way to the Fan Fest. We've decided to go back to Arnolds to watch the game. Anthony and I high tail it up the hill as AJ stops to pick up laundry, arriving right at kickoff. The place is packed with supporters wearing their various kits of yellow and a few vuvuzelas, which are a bit deafening indoors, but I enjoy the enthusiasm. Bafana Bafana must defeat France by four goals in order to go thru to the Round of 16, and become the first host nation not to get out of the group stage ... it is a daunting task even despite the turmoil that has enveloped the French squad. I just hear that Nicolas Anelka had been sent home by the Federation for refusing to apologize to the coach for disparaging remarks that had been made. Theirry Henry (of the infamous handball that sent the Irish out of the Euro group playoff) has apparently also been a vocal critic of the coach. One of the Australian guests at Balule lodge who is a French fan was also highly critical of the coaching decisions.

I order the ostrich burger (with no sauce) and it is again amazing, tastes just like beef. I had a desire for the wild game platter that the guys had the night before, but I trust that the wild game will appear again on a menu in front of me.

The game begins well for South Africa as the Bafana Bafana score first and are playing well, pressing the French, and thwarting the play of Ribery, the current French maestro. A second goal sends the restaraunt into a frenzy, and only a few minutes later the ball is again in the back of the French net only to be called back for off side. Les Blues score one and that just about kills the game. There is applause at the final whistle from the entire establishment, and I stand and turn toward the locals and give them my applause as well.

Now we have to dash back to the hostel, for our transport will pick us up for the airport in 30 minutes.

Mango air departs 5 minutes early (Boeing 737-800)

After a missed exit off the freeway we find ourselves on surface street in Jozi trying to find our way back to the N12. We think we know the way when we make our way on the M1 south, and somehow missed the interchange (probably wasn't one). After driving for quite a while, we think we're headed in the right direction, and stop for directions at the only petrol station we've seen in the last 30 minutes. Sure enough we're close, and get difinitive directions back to the R24 to Rustenburg. We finally arrive at 00:30.

Wed Jun 23

Settling back in at Am Hang, our hosts have provided us now with two blankets for each bed, maybe it'll be even colder than the previous nights, I'm not chancing it, and put them both on and tuck them between the two single beds between myself and Anthony.

Tomorrow is the final match day of Group C with USA playing Algeria and England playing Slovenia in simultaneous matches at 16:00. We must win to control our destiny. An England loss would send them home in disgrace, as the entire British Isles considered their draw to be EASY.

Match Day morning:

As usual we've got the water boiled to make the filtered coffee to have for breakfast with yogurt and muesli before taking the malaria tablet. We're planning on being on the road about 10:30 for the drive to Pretoria. We have a six seater Toyota Avanza SX 1.5, and it is driving AJ crazy, as the stalk for the turn signals and wipers are reversed, so that every time he signals a lane change the wipers are activated. I will get my test this morning, and Anthony has put the over/under at thirteen (I end up around 25 times hitting the incorrect stalk for lane change). We get into Pretoria with no incorrect turns or exits, and follow the signs to the stadium. AJ has been in touch with fellow fan who we'll meet up with at a Eastwood Lounge for the big pre-game party. And what a party it is as there are hundreds of USA fans streaming in and there are servers dressed is special colors denoting their particular beer of choice or specialty shot cocktail. We've arrived at least three hours before game time. At one point I am up on the stage where they have a foosball table, and people are dancing under a projection screen TV. I slip and fall down the steeply raked steps catching a step above my left hip, most of my beer goes straight up and comes down upon me. We carry on with the party as the crowd grows with game time approaching. With less than an hour to kickoff, our group of 1st MN Vols depart for the stadim which is only a block away from the first security perime

OH MY! what a day. USA top Group C. So England, how EASY was the group?

We're just back to Am Hang after a full 14 hours of jackassery which ultimately worked to our benefit with the US victory over Algeria in the final game of the group stage in 90 minutes plus one minute of the four in extra time. The celebrations in the supporters section in the end where Landon Donovan scored lasted a full 45 minutes after the final whistle.

I stayed sober in order to drive the 1st Minnesota Volunteers back to the Magaliesburg valley, fueled by the adrenaline of the match and a cup of coffee. The rest of the 1st MN Vols, however, were in fine form, with full on celebration at the bar after the match. The drive back was long, and mostly on a two lane highway with opposing traffic flashing high beams as our lights apparently were set too high, or our load of six was weighing down the rear end.

Up tomorrow at 07:00 to drive Sasha back to Jozi, and pick up the tickets for the Round of Sixteen.

Amazing day, and a beautiful result. USA will face Ghana in Rustenburg in four days time, so hopefully we will be able to stay based here at Am Hang, which has been a fantastic place to return.

Morning of Thurs Jun 24

Up at 07:00 to start the kettle and jump in the much anticipated hot shower. Fresh socks are the order of the day, then make up the last bit of coffee in our stores.

>>insert days events here

shasha to airport

shopping mall

jim's buzz cut

elephant bar

pass back 2 kids on side of road, and into empty shanty field with man walking home from work.

ostrich steaks and sausabe brai w. Anthony's corn

watch at Pockets Place

Fri Jun 25

Down day at Am Hang. Still up at 07:30 to make some of the boyz favorite UP Coffee, I have my muesli, glass of milk and sit down to start update of journal, when Walter arrives (he must be up early, for he's coming back in his Hyundai Ute) and we start talking. We're going to move out of the two adjacent cabins that we've been at for the last couple weeks and move down to the new place.

We've made the move, and we're all in the same cabin (house, actually) three beds in the main living room, then two in the bedroom, kitchen area, and a bathroom. Still very nic e to stay in a place that we are comfortable, and I know now that Walter and Karin are happy with us as well.

At 11:00 we head out for the hike up to the top of the Magalie range above Am Hang (Cliff Edge in German as Walter is from Switzerland). I am really glad that we are able to make this trek, as the Magalie range is the main geographic feature of the area. We've drive both sides of the range, and the north side were the N4 runs from Rustenburg to Pretoria has a rounded face like many of the hills in the central valley of California, while the south side of the Maligie Range is a rock face with shear cliff face, especially here at Am Hang. The trek up is not too stenuous, but I have put on my adidas Samba's rather than my Benneton 06's and there is no traction under the ball of the foot (by design, they are indoor soccer shoes), so I am slipping quite a bit is some of the loose dirt and rocks. Anthony is having a similar issue with his shoes, but his alternative are dress shoes. I should have brought at pair of light boots, or just worn the Bennetons.

Very interesting hike as we rise from Am Hang which is in a sloping grassland with some trees into a very wooded area before we reach the shear cliff. Along the trail we encounter many kinds of skat initially the large cow pies, and then as Walter points out some porcupine, and what I must assume is baboon. The baboons can become quite a nuisance, especially after they have been exposed or find food. Once they find food they will return again and again, then if they don't find the food, they can become very aggessive and attack. The neighbor woman at Pockets Place said that there was a very large male baboon that sat right outside her kitchen and was very aggressive. She had small children, so she had to tell the man to get rid of the creature. Sad, but very true.

We make the trek up thru Walter's property to the edge of the cliff, scamper up and find and escarpment that we hike up to the summit which is part of a National park. The view is quite obscured by the smoke from the fires, but we can make out the edge of the city with some reflections. There are several 'what we call deer' on the summit, and we can see across to the canopy tours or spring pools.

Walter's brought down a brai and a clothes line, for after washing my clothes in the sink I've strung them with the little bit of hockey laces that I have brought along. He's indicated that he has some of the cast iron pots that we've seen in Sabie, and we're going to make a stew tomorrow.

For now, we're off to Magaliesburg to watch what should be the best match up of the World Cup, Brazil vs Portugal. There is a recommended restaurant 30 Km down the road, Tre Bobinos, where we arrive 30 minutes before kickoff. Portugal is based here in Magaliesburg, so they have a great following in the area. I have the special, 1/2 chicken with chips. It is bathed in Peri Peri sauce, and is FANTASTIC. We split two pitchers of beer, then others decide on other libations, and I opt for another jug of Bavaria.

The game is full of misconduct as there must have been 10 cautions in the first half. We depart at half time to go to the Elephant Sports Bar for the second half. As we depart, we are suddenly accosted by the locals who wonder who we are, and upon finding out that we're Americans are most interested. The clientel appear to be the most wealthy in the area, and as Walter indicated this was the best place in the area after the previous establishment changed management, and everyone migrated to this place.

Back at the Elepahant Sports Bar, we are the only patrons aside from one other guy. It's still daylight, so I wandered over to see the old house, but it was obscured behind a wall. We watcfh the second half of Brasil v Portugal, and this game is so boring. Neither team is seems wants to loose.

We head to the Balule Lodge for the evening game and meet another group of Americans. Then we're back to Am Hang where we proceed to continue drinking our beers, then it gets real crazy. First Steve gets out his razor and begins shaving his head (Jim got a #2 shaved head the other day) to celebrate the US going first in the group. Then Jim gets his head shaved. Finally it is my turn, and when I awake in the morning, I've got some crazy stuff happening above the sideburns, since fixed.

Sat Jun 26: Quarterfinal match day USA vs Ghana

Today we cooked up a stew (polki?) in a big iron pot: beef, carrots, tomato, potato, onion, garlic, chili peppers, baby carrots, green onion. Amazing. Now we are finally in an Internet Cafe, so you get the most recent updates.

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We finally found the internet cafe after going to a shopping mall in search of some cold medicine for several who are beginning to come down with some kind of cold ... like winter dry cough, sore throat, stuffy head.

We get to the park and ride over five hours before kickoff, and park in the first row ... maybe not so good an idea, for first in last out (sure enough when we return it's bumper to bumper and it's 00:30 with busses still arriving packed with people).

We begin our walk toward the busses and stop by a van with USA fans who offer us a beer, and pick up game as I've got three balls with me to pass back. We play a little 3v3 before boarding a bus into the Bafokeng village near the stadium. We're in search of some beer and brai, as we saw people grilling and selling beer out of their front porches and garages. Turns out the place for US fans to meet is called Lucky's. The place is crawling with English fans who bought tickets for this match assuming they would be C1, only to find themselves in C2 and facing Germay tomorrow. It is strange as there are people walking around with plates of fresh meatl and beer. There is a butchery in this place and people are buying their meat and/or sausages and taking it down the street to grill. We opt to buy a quick beer and leave, as the crowd of English fans are annoying.

Right across from the stadium we find a house that is selling some incredible bbq. I get a 'brisket' (beef), a sausage and it comes with some beans and a corn meal thtat is very similar to grits. It is fantastic R50 (US$6.50) and the beers were only R10. (US$1.30).

We head into the stadium about 2 hours before kickoff to hang banners. I bought a 5 liter jug of water, and have been filling up another plastic bottle all afternoon. I'm only going to have these two beers, so I can stay focused on the game.

My seat (alone) is behind the goal right in line with the touch line, and I can not see the end line because of the sign boards. Stewards come down and try to get everyone to sit which is pretty hopeless, for the US fans make a point of standing and singing all game. I am in the front of the US fans, and Ihere are an older couple sitting behind me, so I slide to my left and remain standing. The second half, I go up to stand with Anthony who's in the second deck at the corner, much better view. However, the US team is unable to match Ghana's scoring with several prime chances not converted and the game went to 30 minutes of overtime. Ghana scored four minutes into overtime, but the US could not tie it up in the remaining time.

After the game, Anthony and I wrangle the banners that were hung at midfield in the camera view, then went to meet up with AJ, Steve and Jim. We know that getting out of the park and ride lot will be a real mess, so we're not in any hurry. We finally arrive home at Am Hang, the Geoko house, about 02:30 after a long drive down the R24 among a quite long string of cars for that hour of the morning.

Sun Jun 27

We're all a little tired this AM, however, Walter and Karin will be coming down to join us for Sunday brunch, which they have graciously provided us the bacon, bangers, eggs, nut bread, butter and apricot marmelade. So I'm up early making a fresh pot of coffee, and begin frying up the bacon. As the bacon is frying, I squeeze out the beef sausage from half a dozen bangers into a pot for frying (I will add this to the scrambled eggs). For the eggs, I've added a little milk, salt, pepper and some Peri Peri sauce. This is a version of what we'd call hot sauce, and adds some great flavor. Not too much. Some sliced oranges and grapefruit round out the table.

We enjoy a nice breakfast on the patio under the bright sunshine, and it is warm and comfortable. There is nice conversation.

Everyone is beginning to pack and organize their stuff as tomorrow Anthony, Jim and Steve will depart. I do a small bit of laundry (American Outlaws bandana, pants and socks) and hang it up to dry in the warm sun and steady breeze.

Outside the kitchen window I see quite a large number of birds alighting in a tree. So I grab the binoculars to take a look. The birds are yellow and look like goldfinches, there are other birds that look like flickers. Then I spot a small owl in the crotch of a couple of branches. Walter had picked up an owl that had been injured on the road on our first day, and this looks to be the same species. Everyone comes to take a look. This property is full of an amazing number of birds, and there are also an incredible amount of different plants.

Finally about 15:00 we decide to head back to Tres Bambinos restaurant to watch the Germany vs England game in the Round of 16. This game has been really hyped up in the media, I am sure (I don't really know, as I have had very little access to news radio, TV or the internet).

I decide to splurge on dinner, and I order a muscle soup and and it's accompanying pasta seafood special. It's quite rich and is made with a white wine cream sauce. I order a 500 ml Bavaria beer in hopes of a German win over England.

The place is really filling up with sevearal people sporting England regalia, and others expressing their German pride. Steve remarks later in the evening that the mood reminded him of the Superbowl: there are several women there who obviously don't know the game well, and squeel in excitement each and every time that Mick Jagger (Rolling Stones) is shown in the crowd. The Germans score early, and really dominate the game with their young team showing great skill both on and off the ball. The aging English show their true form of the tournament and underachieve yet again. This is much to the pleasure of the traveling 1st MN Vols.

We drive back to Am Hang for a short while, then head down to the Balule Lodge for the evening game. I finally get to watch Argentina play. They face our arch rivals, Mexico. Argentina score a goal that is clearly off sides, as Carlos Teves gets the ball in behind all the defenders. The assistant has missed it completely, and while the Italian referee, Donatelli?, goes over to consult with him, the goal stands. The Mexicans are livid, and I'm sure the referee is quite upset that he's been hung out to dry by his assistant. As half time ends and the players head for the dressing room, a skirmish erupts behind the Mexico team bench. I'd love to hear what was said both there and in the referees dressing room at the interval.

Argentina goes on to win the game handily, but Lionel Messi is yet again unable to shine brilliant for his National team as he has done for his club, Barcelona.

Down at Balule, there is one local at the bar when we arrive, but he departs for home early on this Sunday evening. That leaves us with Hugo, the friendly bartender who we've all grown quite fond. He's been sporting the Total Jackassery scarf, and has set aside a US flag that he got while working the Carni in the states a few years ago. He wants us all to sign it for him, which we all oblige.

We stay late at the lodge enjoying each others company, and clearly Hugo will be sad to see us go. We have been in the Magaliesberg valley now off and on for three weeks. He is not looking forward to our departure, and the return of a relatively slow pace with the local clientel.

I pass back one of the last balls to Hugo as we are ready to depart in the Avenza, the USA one that Kathy Riggens bought. Hugo, an avid rugby fan, has grown to enjoy watching the soccer (especially the USA), and know that the ball and other US regalia will remind him of the great times. We will be sending him images that he will be able to print and put into a special frame on the wall of the bar, and one of our scarves will also be displayed prominently.

Mon Jun 29

Up again at 07:00, start the coffee and a quick shower. Not much hair to wash. I put together a bowl of yougurt and muelsi, and sit down to write with a cup of hot coffee.

AJ and I are now planning to go to Victoria Falls, and I will have to change my flights for return a week later. In order to not spend our remaining time completely in transit, we'll probably stay up there for most of the remaining time, then return to Johannesburg for return on July 4.

Everyones up now at 09:00 doing some final packing before we depart for the airport in about an hour and a half.

Saw off the crew of Anthony, Jim and Steve, while AJ and I head out to find out about changing travel plans, so I can join him on trip north to Victoria Falls at the Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana border. However, there are no seats available for me to change my itinerary, and the cost to abandon my current flights, and purchase another fare is US$2000. So I will keep my plans and return tomorrow afternoon, thus putting an end to this incredible journey. We got the last room at the F1 Hotel near the airport for R750. (US$100.).

Just found out that my car flooded while I was away, bummer of an end to the trip. Watching the Brasil vs Chile game from the Formula 1 hotel near the airport, and we've just ordered pizza from delivery service. The pizza was terrible, it arrived cold. Signed on to a day of internet access R90. (US$12.) and that allowed me to finally spend some time to review the three weeks of email that had built up, send out a final call for players for the first rink bandy game of the summer season, and check in on a few websites. I watch Brasil destroy Chile in their Round of 16. In bed at midnight for the last night on the continent.

Tue Jun 30

Up at 08:00 for the first time in many moons, no coffee to make, so AJ and I head down the hall to the small dining area for breakfast R35. (US$4.75). Coffee, bowl of granola cereal, orange juice, milk and some toast with squeeze cheese.

Catch a taxi to O.R. Tambo Airport (JNB) at 10:00 so AJ can catch his 12:30 flight to Botswana, and me to my 13:40 flight to Niarobi on Kenya Airways. Early arrival sees the line at check in only about half a dozen deep, so I get thru the que, and wander about the terminal building looking to pick up last minute souvineers. As borading time approaches, I go thru security and enter the den of duty free shops. My what a difference to the goods that are available on the land side of the terminal building, and the prices go along with them. There are certainly some beautiful crafts, and I know I will find some more in Nairobi airport where we saw several shops on the front side of the trip.

This leg of the journey is on the 767-300 ER (extended range). This is one of the aircraft that my brother, Stephen, will be training to pilot in the upcoming months (757 and 767 series for Delta Airlines)

Stop in Nairobi for several hours layover before catching KLM 747-400 to Amsterdam. This is an overnight flight, so I hope to catch some sleep, but I've gotten into my seat with out grabbing my sleep aid pills. Hopefully the beer I had in the bar will help.

We land and the early Round of 16 game between Japan and Paraguay is still playing ... the game has gone scoreless, and is in extra time. So I scurry down to the end of the terminal to the Nairobi coffee house to watch, and the place is packed, so I somehow wrangle a stool, and set up next to the air conditioner in a far corner. Paraguay win on penalties after one of the Japanese players hits the crossbar and it goes over.

I then set out to explore the duty free shopping, and find several items of interest: Kenyan Coffees, Massai blanket, Kenyan shirt, wood bowls.

I manage to sleep much of the way to Amsterdam and arrive a little after 06:00, and make a simple transfer to the leg to Paris. This flight takes a little under and hour.

I have a couple hour lay over in Paris, and it is not clear what terminal the Delta flight will depart from, so I inquire at a customer service counter. I am directed to the adjacent terminal. However, as I try to navigate between the terminals there are police cordoning off a section of the concourse between the terminals. Apparently there is a piece of 'suspect lugggae'. So I am directed outside, and it is initially unclear how to get to terminal 2E, but eventually I find my way with my trolley carrying the oversized blue hockey duffel that had initially been filled with the soccer balls. I had decided to pack my regular pack inside the duffel, then add some of the miscellaneous items that were coming back with me including a couple of AJ's vuvuzela's.

Boarding for the final leg of the journey begins right on time, and as typical the planes are completely full, I have not seen an empty seat the entire journey to or from Johannesburg. I am square in the middle of the plane in the middle seat of the middle section. The sleep aid has worked well, for I was able to sleep for most of the flight, while still being able to wake for some water, a pasta lunch, and a pizza snack.

This trip to the World Cup South Africa 2010 has been a great journey. So much of the pre-tournament media hype about security concerns were never apparent, however, I believe that our plan to stay in the rural area of Magaliesberg played a large part in our avoiding such issues in the urban environment.

We were based in a beautiful setting at Am Hang (German for edge of the cliff), where Walter and Karin were gracious hosts. We were their first guests at what will certainly be a wonderful destination for future travelers.

The Balule Lodge was the location of our arrival brai, and the head bartender there, Hugo, was very attentive, and we always enjoyed our time there to watch the games. Even though the TV on the wall had a relatively small screen, and a slightly distorted image.

We were able to visit several areas of the country, from the magnificent Kruger National Park and it's wildlife, to Sabie and the adventurous, and Cape Town the most cosmopolitain of cities.

Arrive at MSP right on time, and took the LRT to the Mall of America where I connected with my MTC bus home. Carrying the large hockey duffel was quite straining on my shoulders as the straps are small and left two large bruises on my collarbones, oh well, so be it, it is nice to be able to make us of public transport to/from the airport.

See ya'll soon. Peace and futbol.