Women's Bandy World Championships: Travel day(s) MSP > JFK > Moscow > Irkutsk

VM Irkutsk 2012

Monday, February 20, 2012

Awake at 06:15, make coffee, finish packing, breakfast, and out the door to the LRT station at 07:30.  Just missed the 07:42 train, and the schedules are a bit delayed due to construction on the Lake St bridge. Arrive at MSP a few minutes late, and take my place at the end of the line for group check-in. The women's team appear to be a little more organized (or at least on time).

Red Bull Arena from the air

Departed MSP at 10:30 headed for JFK (New York City). 

We arrive right on time as my count down timer begins to chime. We have a three hour layover before the flight to Moscow on a Delta Boeing 767-300ER. Eric and I have both upgraded our seats to Economy Comfort, which gets us an additional 4" pitch (leg room) and 50% more recline in the seat back. I think the additional $60. each way from JFK to Moscow and back will be well worth the cost. 

I settle into my seat, which feels uncomfortable for some reason. I am situated right behind the bulkhead, so there is an extraordinary amount of room, but lacks the underseat storage for my backpack, and the close proximity of the seatback table tray. But something else seems strange about the seat. Eric is seated right behind me for the flight, and he, too, thinks the seat cushion cusion is shorter. Strange. Flight is uneventful (thank goodness) and we arrive in Moscow at 10:30. Thanks to a little blue sleeping pill, I am able to get about five hours sleep.

We get thru passport control in no time, and find our Russian attache waiting. 

The Russians have an election for President Putin on March 4th

We've got a motorcoach scheduled to take us on a tour of Moscow.

We begin our tour from SVO at 11:50 and head in to the notorious traffic. We pick up our tour guide, Daria at the Beloruskaya Metro  Station. Daria talks a mean streak, non-stop from block to block in a never ending stream of historical facts and figures. We finally arrive at Red square just about 13:00, where we disembark and walk up to get team photos in from of the Church of St. Basil (the ornate onion domed church that is an icon of Red Square). 

We then get a fifteen minute walk about the GUM department store. Kevin, Eric and I have all been here at least three times, so we know exactly where to find the restrooms on the third floor.  An amazing shopping center with glass and steel barrel vault over the three story elite shopping experience. 

We visit our favored grocery store, and contemplate some small bread and cheese. But we are going to certainly be stopping later for eats, so we just browse, despite Eric experiencing serious food envy. Some of the sturgeon was US$700. for a small tin (maybe two ounces). 

We board the bus again for the pedestrian mall (Arbat street) where we can find some food. Many of the group stop at Mi-Mi (Moo-Moo, signified by large cow statue in front) where a buffet lunch can be had for about US$7. As the large group goes in, several others of us decide to explore elsewhere. Daria has described that this week is the beginning of the end of the winter season and is celebrated with pancakes, so ... that is our quest. We find a nice cafe, where I enjoy a cafe americano for 159 rubles (US$5.30) and some salmon caviar pancakes 269r ($8.97). 

Wow! Moscow is an expensive city.

We meet back at the bus at 16:00 and head for the Cathedral on the Moscow River; built in 2000, it is new, but built on old sketches and drawings. 

The interior is very ornate, and is based upon the Orthodox Christian designs. We arrive at 16:30 and enjoy only half an hour inside. Eric has explored the basement and indicates that there is yet more below, which is hard to believe given the vast spaces in the main space.

At 17:00 we're all back on the bus and ready to head into the propka (russian for cork - traffic jamb). We go about two blocks to cross the Moscow River bridge, and it takes us a full thirty minutes to reach the near side entrance. Another fifteen minutes, and we are on the river road, just the other side of the Cathedral. Yes, that was almost an hour to get from one side of the Cathedral to the other.  It's almost like NASCAR, but only right hand turns have taken us basically around the block - but twice across the Moscow River in the middle of their rush hour. Now traveling along the river road in very little traffic, we are able to see one of the Russian Space Shuttles, Buran - the name that I chose for the bandy team (also means blizzard in Tatar).

Our tour concludes on Sparrow Mountain, the overlook in the Lushniki Sports District. There is a big game today at the stadium: CSKA Moscow host Real Madrid in the UEFA Champions League. It is now 18:00 and we are at the overlook with vast views up and down the river and includes one of the seven Stalinist skyscrapers in the city. This one is the Moscow State University. Among the many vendors, there are several selling scarves and hats. Some of which represent the friendship scarves with half CSKA Moscow and the other half Real Madrid.  I begin to bargin with one vendor, using my calculator method. I find his price to be 10 euro (US$13.), a little too high in my book, so I walk on. I find another stall with a really cool Locomotive scarf depicting all of their Russian League championships over the years as cars on a train. This may be for my friend, Brucio (www.dunordfutbol.com), but who knows, there may be even better scarves found this week.

We have only ten minutes to overlook, then it's back into the propka and on our way toward the center city to drop Daria off at a Metro, and continue on to SVO. It is 19:00, and we can expect an hour and a half to get to the airport in this traffic. Luckily, it only takes us another thirty minutes and by 19:45 we are in line at the check-in right behind Team Norway. Our flight boards at 00:55 for a 01:30 departure. 

We look forward to another six hours in SVO, then a five hour flight across five time zones to our final destination of Irkutsk. We land just after noon on Wednesday local time.

Men's Championship: parting shots

As I begin my travels two weeks since the men's tournament was completed, I found some images and realized that I neglected to update the final days travel event.

Sunrise over Frankfurt

Big Mac, Mr. President?

Bandy World Championships in Almaty, Kazakhstan was a great experience. Not only was the country and city an incredible experience, but the bandy, referee duty and camaraderie among the bandy family was fantastic.

Qualification/Relegation Day

Saturday, February 4th - Qualification/Relegation Day
Awake at 06:30 before my alarm has a chance to wake me. It has been a very short 5 hours of sleep, but the excitement for the days duty makes the early rise very easy. I turn on my netbook, and begin streaming the Current as I prepare my game day gear bag and await time for breakfast with Kevin before our 08:00 transport up to the Medeu, high in the Tien Shan range.
The morning is beautiful for their is a nice snow falling and whitening up the gray and dreary cityscape.
The scene turns even more beautiful, as we wind our way up the valley following our police escort with large snow flakes falling.
Our escort comes up behind a convoy of military vehicles with their own escort with flashing lights - it is a big day for Kazakhstan, for their team will be playing in the Semi-Final and their President will be in attendance.
We arrive at the Medeu about 45 minutes after departing the hotel, and we have one hour and fifteen minutes to game time. There are still many items to cover before we take to the ice. With this important game for both the Japanese and Kirkystan teams, we want to be sure that we, the officials, are well prepared.
One of the pre-game activities that Kevin would like to do is for our crew to visit each of the teams locker rooms and give them some timeline information. Kevin has delegated the task to me, and I look forward to it. Our Russian team mate, Alexi, will join us, and provide translation for the Kirgese team. The first item to discuss with the teams is the pre-game protocol, where the teams will be summoned to each of their team benches five minutes before the scheduled start of the game. We do this, so that we may process onto the field prior to the national anthems. This formal proceedure will help set the tone for the decorum on the team benches during the match, and also make for a nice presentation for the Japanese Saturday afternoon television audience. The second item to inform the teams is to inform them, that we, the referees will be setting a low threshold for fouls and penalties. We want to be sure that the game is presented to the audience as the game that we love, and not to be played in an brutal manner that many of the players with their background in ice hockey may revert. The heavy snow conditions can also make for a difficult game to control.
The local organization has had a difficult time keeping up with snow removal, but the rink is ready for the players to begin their warm ups. By the time that the game starts, there is almost 2cm (about an inch) of snow on the rink. As the game progresses, the snow continues to fall at a heavy rate with large snow flakes. By the end of the first half there are some piles of snow in some areas on the rink as deep as 6 cm. As we enter the last minute of play in the first half, the referee supervisor, indicates to me that the teams will stay at their benches and the half time interval will be only five minutes, and they will not be clearing the snow. This comes as a great surprise to me, for the conditions are terrible, and do not portray our game in a favorable manner to the television audience; and the deep snow makes playing the game most difficult. At times, the players are standing around trying to find the ball which often becomes obscured under piles of snow. Apparently rink staff are concerned about being able to clear the snow before the first semi-final. This is most unfortunate.

I will stay at the stadium all day in order to watch both of the semi-finals. Some small bread and meat (sausage) sandwiches are provided along with apples and mini-mandarine oranges. I take my lunch up onto a ledge next to a window overlooking the rink and take a rest.

While there one of the most interesting snow removal machine is making its way down the sideline. The machine has two shovelarms that scoop the snow in alternating sweeps up and onto a conveyor belt that dumps into a large truck. The machine has to wait several times as the dump trucks are filled quite rapidly.

Security is, and will become quite tight in and around the stadium. Later in the day one of the USA players forgot his credentials, and had an incredibly difficult time getting thru the security cordon, and was told that he had to stay in the USA locker room until he had new credentials prepared. He said that when he was coming up the valley, that he saw soldiers tromping thru the woods to secure the perimeter. Inside the stadium when I wandered to the other side of the stadium there were several plain clothesed agents with the survielance ear pieces watching the crowd,

Due to the massive snow falling, the Russia vs Finland game is split into three halves of thirty minutes each. This allows the snow plows to clear the ice followed by the zamboni (Olympia, actually) to resurface the rink. I find a vendor selling souvineers under the scoreboard at the end of the stadium. I do not have any Kazakh Tenge remaining, and am a little disappointed and think that I'll purchase some hat/scarf combinations during the final tomorrow. After I get back to the referee lounge room, I realize that I do have a US fifty dollar bill in my wallet. So I figure out what the exchange rate would be, and begin to figure out what I can bargin them down in price, and what the change should be. The scarf/hat combo is T3000 (US$20.), so I figure that I will offer them two for T5000 (US$34.). They accept and with the help of a voulunteer, I complete the deal. The vendor throws in an added bonus of two Kazakhstan pins, a refrigerator magnet, and two small Kazakhstan flags.

Off day and excursion tour of Almaty (Alma Ata)

Friday, February 3rd - Off day and excursion tour
Despite being our off day, we decide to get up early to explore the city, and then meet up with the referees for an excursion tour . We wander to the west from our hotel to find the Metro station. We walk right past, and end up circling around a couple of blocks. Finally, we ask directions, and find the station with the obvious 'M' symbol. The underground subway was under construction for over 25 years (Soviet Union), and was completed, finally, in 2011. We're in the station at 10:45, and pay the T80 (US$0.54). I buy th e yellow tokens (one for my friend, AJ). We take and incredibly long escalator deep below the city.

The station is virtually empty, however, we come upon the Japanese bandy team leaders with their volunteer. They get off after one stop, and we continue for one more to the station for Republic Square. 

The country of Kazakhstan became independent about 20 years abo, and there are monuments and a tall statue like at Trafalgar Square. We're working on a timeline in order to get back to hotel for excursion with a large majority of the referees. Eric has done a lot of research, and our plan is to comlete a portion of a walking tour (we had already done much of the last part of the tour). We trudge off to the east toward the Hotel Kazakhstan, and more of the cultural sights in Almaty including the Academy of Science and 28 Heroes Park (across from our hotel). As I had already been into the cathedral, I decided that I needed to visit the Monument to the 28 Heroes. This massive sculptural monument represents all of the Russian Republics, and the heroes who valiently defended Moscow from the Nazi. I took several moments of contemplation next to the eternal flame.

I tried to get some close up images of the faces that are a part of the monument.

While visiting the monument, the Kirgiz team arrive, and we all enjoy taking some photos together.

As time is running short to get back to the hotel, wander back toward the Cathedral in the park, and encounter several grandmothers with their children playing amongst a flock of pigeons. I see a great opportunity for a video capture, so I take out my camera and hold it low and approach the hoard. The children have been given small bag of seed or maybe some sort of grain, and they are attracting the birds. Some of the birds are perched upon their shoulders and/or eating out of their hands. The youngest infants are truely gleeful with having all the birds flocking around them.

The referee teams gather at the hotel lobby, while the drivers of two mini-buses wash the windows so we have better view for the excursion about the city. We start out from the hotel, and the first stop is in the park of 28 Heroes where we get out of the busses and are shown one of the oldest wooded buildings in the city.

From there we walk a very short distance where our tour guides, two of the ever present volunteers, give us a short history about the Cathedral. During the Soviet times, the church was used as a radio station, the only one in Almaty (Alma Ata, by its other name). We then move to the Monument to the Heroes, where we are also given a short history. We then board the transport and head south where we are driven past the drama theater, the library and the Republic square. We then head to the Central stadium where we will pick up the referee crew who have just finished their game, so that they may join us for the rest of the tour.
Next stop is the Park of the first President Nazzerbaev. This park is very new (as is this independent country), and it is obvious by the small size of the trees that are spread out from the monumental entrance and fountains. This must be just amazing in the lush summer season, however, in winter, it is stark and gray (aside from the gleaming gold ornament on the white hemi-spherical edifice).
We then board the transport again, and head to the ski-jump, which is also very new and modern design right among the development at the edge of the city just blocks from the towering skyscraper that is the JW Marriot hotel. I believe the ski-jump was built for the 2011 Asian Winter Games and is a truely world-class facility.
Our ultimate destination for the day is to take the gondola up and over the Medeu stadium and dam/reservoir to the ski area, Shimbulak (spelling?). The gondola ride cost T2000 (US$13.50), and will take us right above the stadium where the A-Pool games have been played, it is truely a spectacular view. The gondola continues to the top of the dam and over the reservoir. There is a pit in your stomach as the ground drops away to the valley floor far below.
The dam has been built to prevent floods and their disasterous mudslides that had previously destroyed much of the city of Almaty some one hundred years ago. It is most interesting to see from this vantage as Kevin, Eric and I had climbed the stairs just a few long days ago.
The aerial ride carries us further up into the Tien Shan mountain range toward the ski resort. Below there is an amazingly steep mountain road switching back and forth to climb up the wall of the valley. The steep mountain valley is strewn with downed trees, the result of a freak tornado that tore down the valley this spring. There are trees down all around, and some of the tops have been sheared clear off. Finally we cross a ridge line, and the base of the ski area comes into view. There is some development of private residences and lodging for the ski area below.
Our group will go into the chalet and enjoy a nice meal and cameraderie with our bandy referee family. As it is mostly an off (rest) day for the tournament, there are other bandy teams who have taken the rest day to visit. We had seen the USA team in several gondola cars crossing on our way up the mountain, and the Norwegian team occupy several tables across the restaurant. The Finland referees are looking forward to ordering pizza. I, however, am more interested in the Shaslik, a local Kazakh traditional kabob T1590 (US$10.75). There are several options ranging from beef, chicken, and salmon, but I opt for the Kazakh traditional fare. It is called horse clippings, and amounts to four rather large medalions of marinated and charcoal grilled tenderloin, served with a flour tortilla and garnished with grilled onion and red peppers. It is absolutely fantastic, and I offer to share with my Norwegian table mates (and Eric, who anxiously, races from another table to try the fare). We began the meal with a 0.33 litre of Stella Artois for T1200 (US$8.10). The wonderful excursion is coming to an end, for we must board the gondola for the ride down the mountain before it is shut down for the evening. It was, indeed, a very nice day that we were able to enjoy with our bandy referee family.
We end the day ends with our daily meeting at 20:00, where the previous days games are reviewed and the assignments for the upcoming most important Semi-Finals and Qualification games are revealed. There are only a few games remaining in the tournament, and I do not expect an assignment at this late stage of the tournament. I do, however, look forward to my duty as 4th Official tomorrow at the majestic Medeu stadium featuring Japan vs Kirgystan.
Eric and I walk down the street about 500 meters to the grocery store (very German influenced) to stock up on some beer. With our internal clocks completely upside down (12 hour time difference from home) it is most helpful to have a few beers to make the sleep come easy. As usual, I also enjoy tasting the local brews, and we are excited to find a small vendor in the store who is selling 'live beer' that is filled individually from a keg into one liter or 1.5 l bottles. I choose one type, and Eric another among a plethora of other Kazakh varieties. We retire to my room as a crew to relax, chat, and enjoy a running commentary along with the local TV programming. Unfortunately, the selections of programming among the almost 100 chanels is not very entertaining. The actual selection of programs is about half, for most stations are duplicated in both Russian and Kazakh language. Tomorrow is a big day for all of us, for we have qualification games. Kevin and I will have transport at 08:00 to Medeu (JAP vs KAZ), while Eric will be working the Latvia vs Netherlands match which will relegate one team to the lower, C-Pool for next years tournament.

Last day of group stage

Thursday Feb 2nd - Last day of group stage
Stark awake at 05:45 after only four hours sleep, so today's exploits may be a bit shorter. Due not only to my current sleepy condition, but lack of notes from my black book, and a full day of bandy referee duty, and the massive game to end the group stage in the A-pool - Sweden vs Russia to determine the #1 seed for the Semi-Finals.
I'm up working on compiling verbage to improve the english version of the bandy rule book - using soccer parlance from the laws of the game to clarify much of the sentence structure and intent to follow the spirit of the rules according to the Internatonal Bandy Federation. It is no small task, indeed.
Kevin and Eric are working together this morning at Central stadium, and their police escorted transport van departed at 08:00, so I head to my room to prepare my gear bag for my 10:00 departure for the game that will determine the winner of the B-Pool, Canada vs Belarus. My duty for this game is to  be the Fourth Official: positioned at midfield between the two team benches; monitor the substitutes and team leaders in the technical area; take full notes for the match including all penalties, goals, team warnings, and extra time added. I really enjoy this position, for it is a chance to interact with the players and coaches in a much less intense situation - where we can all let our personalities carry the day, while administering the rules to maintain control of the game. It is by no means an easy job, this. Speaking english can certainly help in this international competition where English is the main language for the tournament (Kazakh and Russian are also broadcast over the PA system).
All I can say, is that our crew was put to the test both on and off the field, and we had a successful game at the end of the day.

(l to r: myself, Fredrik (NOR), Grigory (RUS), Per-Erik (SWE) and Vilsson (SWE). Note my valenki, Russian felt boots.

My plan had been to return to the hotel after this game for a quick bite to eat before returning for the afternoon fixture, skating as Assistant Referee #1 (again on the team bench side). However, the time began to run short, so I say at the stadium and watch some of the USA vs Norway game on TV from the Medeo stadium in the mountain valley high above the city. This game is to determine who will be relegated to the B-Pool, so it has great importance, and has been the focus for the American players for the last several months. I get to watch the last twenty minutes of the first half, then go out to the rink to watch Hungaria vs Netherlands.

 I (finally) take one of the bags of loli-pops, to distribute to the ball kids - always a great hit, and something that I really enjoy doing to establish a rapport with them. The rest of my crew arrive, and we begin our pre-game activities with just about an hour before the start time for the second match of Group C between Japan and Kirgystan. 

After the game, we immediately change out of our game gear and into dry clothes for we will take transport up to Medeo. It is now 18:00, and I have only had a granola bar, a few small pieces of bread with slice of sausage, plus my energy bar before the game.

We do not encounter any significant traffic (luckily) and we arrive to the Medeo, where the stadium lighting has lit up the entire valley floor and the walls enclosing the venue. 

The game (SWE vs RUS) is an amazing display of the sport, played by the absolute best professionals in the world. Truely, professional, for they are all paid handsomely for their service to their local clubs. 

Russian breaking out of end with Swede attempting to take the ball away

For the second half, Kevin, Eric and I head to the opposite side where all the supporters are cheering their sides. It is an amazing experience, much like the World Cup of Soccer, but with everyone bundled up in full parkas, and with their scarves actually providing their function.

Felt wool wrap to ward off the frigid temperatures - Kemorovo fans

The temperature is -3C (27F) with a strong wind coming straight down the valley, funneled by the sheer walls thru the stadium from one goal to the other.
The game is interesting, for neither team want to show their whole hand (strategy), but they both sincerely want to win. The result is 6-2, with incredible goals and skill sets on display for both sides.

Seconds remaining in the match

After the game, it's back on a mini-bus for a crazy ride down the valley back to Almaty.  I carry on a great conversation, which keeps us from paying too much attention to our drive, who is racing the Volkswagon ten-passenger TDI down the winding valley road. Almost all referees were at the game, so the banquet hall is full for dinner at 21:30 before our end of the day meeting to review and recieve assignments. I recieve very high marks for my work as 4th official in the first game, and no problems noted for my second as assistant. After all games are reviewed, we recieve our assignment. A much smaller number of games remain each day, so the anticipation is growing for the Sunday games. Kevin gets the Group C2 (Japan) vs C3 (Kirgystan), with me as the 4th, so I will have seen both teams twice in the last few days. An added bonus is that the game will be shown live on Japanese TV on Saturday (morning, Japan time). So, if anyone knows how to record a P2P video stream, please do so, for it would be a great keepsake from this tournament. I promise to wear my valenki, which will certainly get some face time from the Kazakh TV production.

Photos tomorrow, I'm zonked.

Kyrgyzstan score first goal in their history

Wednesday, February 1st -  Kyrgyzstan score first goal in their history
The day begins earlier than anticipated, for I have later afternoon game, but can not sleep past 07:00. It is just starting to brighten in the eastern ridge of the Tang Shan mountain range, and we are blessed with clear skys revealing the fresh snow capped peaks anchoring the south of the city.

Sunrise over Almaty

I spend some time with a video skype to my mother this morning, and it is really great to be able to see and speak over such great distance and time zones. I also see my friend, David is online in San Francisco, so I skype him as well. It is with great joy, that I find him with his wife, Florentina, and daughter, Davia sitting at their dinner table. It has been far too long since we have seen eachother. Davia, now sixteen, was just an infant the last time that I was in The City.
As the morning progresses, the air begins to thicken, and the mountains become shrouded in the thick air of the city. It is no wonder that the airlines schedule their landings for the middle of the night to avoid the obscured visibility.

Gratuitous Vito photo for AJ

Kazakh Real World 4WD SUV-not for suburbia

With the late morning and early afternoon free, my Russian referee friend, Andrei, and I venture out for some shopping. He needs to purchase a camera for a friend of his birthday. So we head out into the city. We visit an electronics shop, but the selection is poor, and the shop keeper indicates that there is a ZUM department store on the Arbat (pedestrian mall) where we can find all that our hearts desire. It is true, for as we enter the door, we are confronted by electronics as far as the eye can see, with series of small counters with display cases chock full of every electronic device and accessory imaginable. This is not a place with selective competition, it is full on capitalist endeavor. Andrei, inquires at a few counters, and ends at one, where he begins his negotiations. He indicates that the prices are much better than in Moscow, and he is prepared to walk away from purchasing the Cannon A800 for T19,000 (US$127.), when reviews the Kazakhstan Tenge in hand that totals only T17,700 (US$118.) the shop keepers make the deal, rather than see the customer walk away. As a comparison, such a consumer item could be purchased at Best Buy for US$86 (w/ tax). It does go to show how expensive cities such as Moscow can be, when these prices here in Almaty, Kazakhstan are much lower than an expensive city such as Moscow.
We continue to wander the ZUM department store for a little while, then we must return to the hotel, for Andrei has transport to the Medeo Stadium at 14:00 for the USA vs Sweden game, and my transport is schedule for 15:00 to Central for the  Kyrgyzstan vs Estonia match. I take the extra hour enjoy the sunshine and walk thru the Park to the 28 Heroes, and visit the Cathedral.

Cathedral interior

Cathedral exterior with child on sled

28 Heroes Monument 

At 14:58, our referee crew meet in the hotel lobby for the short drive to the stadium. I am looking forward to working with Finland head referee, and the rest of the Russian crew. Upon arrival at stadium, we sit down in the referee locker room, and the HR goes thru his pre-game. He outlines all the game situations, and how he expects our crew to work the game. Positions for restarts on free strokes; cautions for encroaching the distance for restarts; breaking up any fighting; end line whistling for corners; responsibilities for eachothers side of the penalty area to award a penalty shot; offside line; ball out of bounds at side line; and constant eye contact.
We then walk out to the rink where the previous game is into the second half, to review the condition of the rink. We have been informed that there is a problem with the refrigeration, and the side boards have had to be moved in a few meters due to some holes in the ice. The rink started at 96 meters by 66 meters (315 feet x  217 feet), but has been reduced by 6 meters (20 feet). There have been two areas where the under ice coils have sprung leaks creating holes in the ice. It is approved for the competition today, and maybe will be fixed before tomorrows games.
The game goes as expected and Estonia go out to an early lead, for  Kyrgyzstan  are playing in their first tournament, and they have yet to score a goal.
The game is going well, and the temperatures are quite warm, about -10C (14F) at the start of the game. The sun is beginning to set in the west, and is shining in my eyes both directly, and reflecting off of the ice. It really is no problem, for it is similar to the late fall/summer games on the soccer pitch. In the second half there is a stretch of five minutes, where I must call the Estonian players offside on four or five occasions; which includes waving off three goals. I remind the referee over our two-way radio system that we are in the final minute (only 60 minute games in Group C, rather than typical game of 90 minutes). In the next sequence, three  Kyrgyz players break away toward the Estonian goal with the ball. They score their Federations first International goal in the dying seconds of the match, to great celebrations by all involved. This makes the second day in a row, where historic first goals have been scored in my matches. Truely enjoyable to be a part of the experienc and have a very brief post-game assessment of our match with Russian supervisor. Afterward, our three-man crew retire to the sauna for five or ten minutes, where my Finish colleague is able to give me some more information on my performance. It is from these post-match conversations that we learn, no matter the level of our experience. We then  board the mini-bus back to the hotel, which takes us into rush-hour traffic jamb (it is 6:30 PM local time). What was a 15-20 minute drive to the Central stadium takes 45-50 minutes on return.
A wonderful selection on the dinner buffet includes the beef stroganoff, and the manti (Kazakh meat dumpling). I meet up with USA referee team mates at dinner and we share some of our game day experiences at the rink.
Now, I've been in my room writing todays entry, and it is 22:00. In thirty minutes all the referees and supervisors will meet downstairs in the conference room to review the days games briefly, and recieve the assignments for Friday. Typically the day off before the Semi-Finals and Qualification games - however, this year there are two B-Pool games on the schedule, so many of us will have the day free. Saturday will be the Semi-Finals for the A-Pool; the B-Pool games for 2nd and 3rd Place; and C-Pool game for 2nd place. This year there will be direct promotion / relegation between the three groups. I do not think this is such a good idea, for example, the game between A6 and B1 has generally been an intense game for inclusion in the next tournaments A-Pool. This game has historically been fiercely contested recently between Belarus and USA. This year, both teams have clearly been firmly in their groups position, and would set up a very good competition which all of the players desire. Instead both teams will be without any final fixture in the competition. In additon the fifth place team in the A-Pool go without a final game (only the game for 3rd place and the Final remain for Sunday).

Q: Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner?

A: Dinner: beef stroganoff and manti (dumplings)

Tomorrow may be a day for exploring this city, and shopping for souvineers and gifts, depending upon the upcoming assignments.
Meeting concludes at 23:00, discussion in my room until 00:30. Kevin and Eric have transport at 08:00 to Central stadium, I follow at 10:00. Evening game is the last group stage featuring Sweden vs Russia, which is 'almost' always an epic battle to determine the #1 seed for the Semi-Finals. Eric will make his way up to the mountain stadium, while Kevin, our Russian crew and I will arrange direct transport to Medeo after our 16:30 C-Pool match (Japan vs  Kyrgyzstan).

What I'm drinking: 0.44L unfiltered wheat beer (nod to Soccer Boy)

Historic Inaugural C-Pool Competition

Tuesday, January 31st - Historic Inaugural C-Pool Competition

This morning was the first C-Pool game in the World Bandy Championships, and included the first competiton for the Japanese Bandy Federation. Indeed a great day for the bandy family. The match was played under clearer air, but with some light snow falling at the Central Stadium. 

First Course: breakfast, lunch or dinner?

The 9:30 start time, meant an early rise for breakfast for our crew, which included my USA Assistant Referee team mate, Eric and Head Referee from Sweden, Hokan (sic). The temperature was quite nice just about freezing with very little wind or smog.

The game was going very well, although there were deep powdery snow drifts at both end lines. This left very little room for Eric and I to navigate for our duties, which often takes us into positions beyond the goal line.  At one point, Eric was pressed deep beyond the end line by the run of play, and backed right into the snow bank, "ass over happy feet", displacing a large cloud of fluffy snow. At one point, all that could be seen was his black helmet sticking up from the drift. It was all we could do to keep from falling down in laughter. Eric the snowman.

Well, the game continued of course, and the first half was dominated by the Estonian team. The second half began and in the first minute, Japan was awarded a penalty shot, much to the enjoyment of the Japanese contingent. The shot was converted marking a historic moment for their Federation. The ball was collected by the team captain, and presented to the team leaders. The result was never going to be in doubt, however, Japan scored again later in the second half on a beautiful shot from a corner stroke into the upper corner. The celebrations began again in earnest, despite the inevitable result forthcoming.

At the end of the day; nothing can curb the Japanese enjoyment of the moment

Referee Team Sjosten

Return to hotel for a quick change of clothes in preparation for 4th official duty for the next game at Central Stadium, Netherlands vs Canada. I wear my new valenki traditional wool felt boots, and draw comments from volunteers to the security platoon. The game is never in doubt as the Canadians roll to 11-1 victory.

Office foyer at the National Stadium (Central)

Back at the hotel after the match, the fog gives way to relatively clear view of the Tang Shan mountain range to the south of the city, and the late afternoon sun shining on the gold ornaments at the Church in the Park of 28 Heros across the street. I truely hope that we can get a clear view of the whole range towering over the city of Almaty to the south.

Golden sunset over mountain peaks and Cathedral in Park for 28 Heros

A leisurely afternoon in the hotel room is a nice break, and I look forward to watching Sweden vs Kazakhstan on the television tonight, then late dinner before our 22:30 nightly meeting to review the days games, and receive our next assignments. 

At our meeting, we begin with a short video showing the historic start to the Group C play, followed by the video captured of team mate, Eric, falling backwards into the snow drift ... this is met with howls of laughter by all, and brought tears to my eyes. Eric took it in stride, and stood to recieve his applause.

Meeting ends at 23:40 bringing another long day to an end. Tomorrow brings another Group C game, featuring another first time country, Kirgistan. I get to work with one of the top Finish Head Referees as they face Estonia.

B-Pool play begins

Monday, January 30th - B-Pool play begins
While up late, sleep was interrupted by some noisy upstairs neighbors, but still was sharp for the days morning match. Typical breakfast plus a bowl of porridge with some diced apples, raisins and walnuts.
Met Russian referee team mates in lobby at 10:00 for the police escorted mini-bus ride to the Central Stadium and the start of Group B play. The bandy rink is set up on the practice field next to the soccer stadium. Four portable refrigeration units have been set up to feed the coils under the rink. The ice is quite fast, but there are a couple of lumpy bits, and one corner has a slight bump.  All in all, the venue is a very nice urban setting with some relatively new residential high rises towering a few blocks away.

 Security Cordon at the perimeter of the bandy rink

 Additional police presence and view of the massive cantilever support for the soccer stadium canopy

The long walk from locker room to the rink (with skate guards on)

 The smog is still thick enough to cut with a knife as the workday traffic contributes quite an inversion, similar to what Salt Lake City might experience - nestled right at the foot of the mountains. This morning, I could make out the television tower and the snow covered peaks thru the haze, but by the time we left for the match, they were completely obscured. I am glad the temperature is reasonable (just below freezing).
The tournament is using mixed referee crews, and I am the only American among three other Russians, so communication by the two-way radios will be impossible for me to understand. No matter, for our game is controlled by a system for control, and by making constant eye contact with my head referee, we are able to do a good job of controlling the game. The game features the Netherlands versus Latvia with many of the players coming from hockey background. This resulted in seven penalties (70 minutes) in the first half. The referee made correct decisions in all situations, and the players responded. There were zero penalties in the second forty-five minutes. The run of play seemed much closer than the scoreline, as the Dutch won by quite a large margin. A very nice Russian referee tradition that I was exposed to was that just before going out to the rink, the whole crew take a seat and have a moment of silent contemplation. This is something that I believe is quite nice and beneficial for the crew as a whole. This is also done before going out for the second half.
Post-game, we found the oppulent referee room quite crowded, as the crew for the next game had arrived and begun their preparation. Therefore, we did not go thru our assessment with the match delegate. We plan to review our match at the hotel after lunch (which has become an identical buffet - difficult to determine whether it is lunch or dinner time). Lunch is complete at 15:00 and I retire to my room (USA ref teammates have game at Central stadium). I draw myself a hot bath, and begin a soak and use the time to do some washing of the tech undershirts for use tomorrow. After the hot tub, I decide to put on the slippers (and underwear) and step out on the frigid balcony ... what a great way to finish off soak.
Eric has heard of a grocery market a few blocks to the east, so we head out to find some more malty provisions. As these trips evolve, it seems that each day we find better and better grocery shopping. Today, we find a store with a distinct German flavor. It is complete with a small kiosk with a woman filling bottles with fresh tap beer (Fifth-Ocean.com). I decide on a one liter bottle for T560 (US$3.75) and a couple of local beers. We also get a box of muselix bars, for there will be some full bandy days with out access to our hotel lunch.
With a long day of bandy tomorrow, I decide to stay in hotel room and watch USA vs Kazakhstan on the television. It is quite nice to watch our game on TV, a luxury that comes at times very few and far between. The weather has turned a bit, and there is a beautiful snowfall at the Medeu Stadium. After the match (21:00) I head for the banquet room for dinner, and begin to write todays blog entry. Soon, however, I am joined by the Finish referee crew, and we enjoy some cammeraderie and conversation.
Dinner time flys by and soon we must break for the evenings meeting begins at 22:30. The days games are all reviewed in the conference room that is full with twenty two referees, and five supervisors. Each game is reviewed by the Supervisor with comments that the rest of us can take some education. Even as these refrees are the best in the world, we can all learn something after each and every game (and some of us, more so than others). The assignments for the day after next are indicated, whih takes us thru Thursday matches and the run up to the Semi-Finals and Qualification games between the groups.

Kazakh icon: hunting by eagle

Up close and personal with a huge eagle at the top of the Medeu dam and reservoir. Amazing bird of prey.

Match Day 1, A-Pool

Sunday, January 29, 2012 - Match Day 1, A-Pool
Up at 08:00, and shave for breakfast before referee meeting at 09:00. Regular fare at the banquet room, and I opt for immediate cup of instant coffee (yes, indeed). Quartered tomatoes, cucumbers and a slice of bread with meat and cheese are the starter plate. A second plate includes some sausage (more like soft hot dog, terrible), fried potatoes w/ onion, a fried egg, and a couple of pancakes - one with meat and the other with cheese. Of course, no meal in Almaty can not go with out a glass or two of apple juice. The name of this city means: full of apples. Not sure where they come from at this time of year.
Quick meeting at 09:00 is led by FIB Director of the Rules and Referee Committee from Sweden, who, along with the other Swedish referees and Match Delegate have finally arrived after delay in Istanbul (also of note, USA Player from the elite Swedish division, traveling on same flights arrived w/o his skates - a big blog for the USA team). At the meeting we quickly review the points of emphasis for this tournament: mixing of referee teams from different countries; focus and directives; review of match protocol; and finally what we have all been waiting for - the first match days assignments. The A-Pool begins today with three games, and the B- and C-Pool play begins on Monday. Referees from USA are assigned games on Monday and Tuesday. My first assignment is at 11:30 working the assignment with Russian Head Referee (HR) as Assistant Referee 1 (AR1), and additonal Russian Assistant, Fourth Official (4th) and Match Delegate. My second day assignments include the  09:30 match as AR1 with Swedish HR and USA teammate as AR2. A second match for the day will follow with the third match of the day at the Central Stadium as 4th official.
Assignments in hand, we retire to our rooms and prepare for our day on the town before heading to the Medeo Stadium high in the mountain for the Opening Ceremony and the three games to open the A-Pool. Our plan is to immediately hit the Green Market (baazar) to experience life in this city at first hand on the traditional shopping day. I am insearch of a replacement pair of valenki (the traditonal felt wool boot) and generally experiencing the full sights, sounds and smells. We are not disappointed, for after wandering thru the many aisles filled with small stalls selling everything that one could imaging, we enter the large open area where there are vendors butchering all kinds of meat, all types of vegetables, spices, and cheeses. Luckily, Kevin gets some photos before we are dramatically informed that photos/video are forbidden. As I did not bring my calculator, I find a vendor with some for sale, and purchase a small solar model for T300 ($2.) which is most helpful in bargining with the vendors, and numbers are the bottom line and need no language in translation. Eventually, we have explored the entire first floor of the market, and we decend a flight of stairs to the oen air area, where I finally find a pair of valenki with rubber sole (the only ones I had seen all morning). So I inquire as to the price T7500 about US$50. This particular pair is obviously much too big, so I punch into the calculator, my Euro size of shoe. The woman running the stall goes off and returns in a minute with my size (more or less). I am given a thick felt insole and try on for fit ... it's still too big, so she grabs a pair of thick wool socks (which I had also been cautiously eyeing). I ask how much for the socks, T800 (US$5.33) and proceed to try on the ensemble. They fit OK, but I don't appear too impressed, as the bargining dance begins. I offer T7000 for the whole set, nyet is the reply, so I give the calculator to the shop keeper and await the counter offer. We go back and forth with my final offer of T7200 (US$48.) accepted.
We carry on and plan to depart back to hotel and continue our exploration of Almaty and the Park of the 28 Heros. We have plenty of time, and Eric suggests we begin part of the walking tour from his guide book which includes the high end stores, and Almaty's version of their Arbat (open boulevard) with street vendors. A real nice walk about, and we encounter Kevin's favorite the street artists paintings. We see many paintings of traditional Kazakh scenes including horses, camels, yurts, mountains and falconry. As we did in Moscow several years ago, we walk back and forth between several vendors inquiring about prices, and surveying our favorites. Eventually, we begin to negotiate with an old woman who obviously has paid a specific amount to the artist and will not budge below a certain point (she needs and deserves T500, US$3.33) for what ever we purchase. I decide that, I, too would like a painting, and we begin to renegotiate a two for one deal. We go back and forth a little, and what started at T4000, ends at two for T7250 (US$48.) We all walk away happy, and Kevin even gets a photo of the gold and gapped tooth old woman. Time is beginning to run short for us to work our way across town to catch city bus up the mountain valley to the Medeo (valley of honey) Stadium.
We make another stop at the hotel to drop the paintings, and decide to get lunch at the banquet room and ride the transport with the referee crew to the stadium.
Upon arrival, the ceremony is underway, and we opt to immediately walk up toward the gravity dam that rises 2000 meters above the stadium in the steep mountain valley. We have driven out of the smog  bound city into the crisp clean air of the mountain, and the temperature is hovering right around freezing 0C (32F) in bright sunshine. Our trek begins, and we first unzip our quilted parkas and remove the gloves. Eventually the steep road reaches the base of the earthen dam, and massive flights of stairs reach into the sky. At each of the three terraced levels of the dam there are security officers standing at 10 meter intervals on an isulated pad.

They are obviously guarding the structure from sabotage. It takes us at least an hour to climb at least 800 steps to the top. We stop at several points to take photographs, panorama and video of the majestic scenes both below the dam, and toward the reservoir and the mountains high above. As we are enjoying the views a local approaches with a giant eagle on his arm. Eagle and Falconry are a historic activity for the Kazahks and others in these Asiatic lands. Immediately, I am astounded and intrigued as he offers to let me hold the eagle on my arm. I am give a thick leather glove, and the bird is transfered.

We decend and catch the end of the first game, Sweden vs Finland. Sweden win decisively. Team USA play Russia in the second match, and we look forward to showing our countrymen some support in their task at hand versus one of the two best teams in the world. Russia win handlily, however, Team USA score three VERY nice goals. The final game of the evening features the host country versus Norway, what has generally been a game between teams ranked  four and five in the group. The host, bouyed by their home support win by a large margin. A group of ten referees depart the game part way thru the second half so we may return to hotel for dinner, before our 23:00 meeting to review the days matches.
Obviously, I am still battling the time zones while writing this travelblog, and will retire in a few minutes before my first game, tomorrow morning.